Old guys with 12As club meeting
12-22-13, 06:32 PM
After all the advice to take a BFH to my wheel, I followed suit and smacked that dent back into place. It hasn't leaked down in around ~30 hours so hopefully it's fixed.
I went to the junkyard Saturday and scored a lot of good stuff for the SE- the lower kick panels/speaker covers, lower dash carpet, a rear storage bin with a non-broken hinge, a grey upper dash vent, a new drivers side tail light, both horns, a radiator, a steering column surround that's 95% intact, and a stock 12A ignition system. It was a good day. Now if I can get this oil cooler leak fixed I'll be in business.
12-22-13, 09:52 PM
Where is it leaking?
It's very common for SA/FB oil coolers to form cracks at the base of the mounts, where the lines attach. An easily solution for this is to take it off and have it welded. I did this to my SA cooler, which was leaking, and had AN fittings welded on at the same time. It fixed my leaky oil cooler...but not my leaking oil pan.
Did you ever determine if this thing is in fact running lean?
It's very common for SA/FB oil coolers to form cracks at the base of the mounts, where the lines attach. An easily solution for this is to take it off and have it welded. I did this to my SA cooler, which was leaking, and had AN fittings welded on at the same time. It fixed my leaky oil cooler...but not my leaking oil pan.
Did you ever determine if this thing is in fact running lean?
12-23-13, 10:27 AM
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Brett, just be careful. The last time I drove it any (real) throttle pushed the air fuel off the low end of the gauge (granted that thing is a POS) and I believe it started to ping. Sounded like it, so I let off real quick.
Leak if I recall is a crack at the base of the fitting. A weld will fix it right up.
Leak if I recall is a crack at the base of the fitting. A weld will fix it right up.
12-23-13, 10:51 AM
Where is it leaking?
It's very common for SA/FB oil coolers to form cracks at the base of the mounts, where the lines attach. An easily solution for this is to take it off and have it welded. I did this to my SA cooler, which was leaking, and had AN fittings welded on at the same time. It fixed my leaky oil cooler...but not my leaking oil pan.
Did you ever determine if this thing is in fact running lean?
It's very common for SA/FB oil coolers to form cracks at the base of the mounts, where the lines attach. An easily solution for this is to take it off and have it welded. I did this to my SA cooler, which was leaking, and had AN fittings welded on at the same time. It fixed my leaky oil cooler...but not my leaking oil pan.
Did you ever determine if this thing is in fact running lean?
Brett, just be careful. The last time I drove it any (real) throttle pushed the air fuel off the low end of the gauge (granted that thing is a POS) and I believe it started to ping. Sounded like it, so I let off real quick.
Leak if I recall is a crack at the base of the fitting. A weld will fix it right up.
Leak if I recall is a crack at the base of the fitting. A weld will fix it right up.
I know those aren't ideal ways to test the fuel mixture but I don't really know what else to do with my limited knowledge and resources.
12-23-13, 11:27 AM
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Yeah, the gauges are about only as good as the sensor. He didn't leave one in it? I'm gonna have to ask for it back then 
.
I thought I heard pinging briefly when I drove it. That's the only reason I'm saying be careful.
Anyone remember how bad it is to convert to manual windows from power on a 1st gen?
.I thought I heard pinging briefly when I drove it. That's the only reason I'm saying be careful.
Anyone remember how bad it is to convert to manual windows from power on a 1st gen?
12-23-13, 04:30 PM
It's leaking from the lower bung on the oil cooler, I believe it's cracked, but someone put JB weld or something all over it so it's hard to tell. I've read about welding it up but I don't know anyone who I'd trust welding aluminum. I wouldn't want to mess up the only SE cooler I have, and it's proving difficult to find another one. I may just break down and take it to a shop. Or figure out how to use the existing SS lines and buy some fittings to connect it to a FC oil cooler... I installed an AFR gauge and it's useless. The only time I get a reading is when the engine is cold or when I get back on the throttle between shifts. I pulled the plugs and they indicated it was running normal to rich (darker brown, the leading plugs were slightly wet). I can't really pick up anything as far as engine noise since the exhaust is so raspy. I topped off the tank when I first got the car, I will try to top it off again soon to see what kind of fuel mileage it's getting. I know those aren't ideal ways to test the fuel mixture but I don't really know what else to do with my limited knowledge and resources.
12-23-13, 04:52 PM
Brett, just get it welded by a competent welder. It will fix your problem and make your life much easier.
I have heard a N/A 12a ping numerous times without failure, mainly because the timing was 180* off, but I can't say that I recommend it.
Fred, if Brett doesn't need that cooler, I have a WB that does. So don't go doing a silly thing like ditching it.
I have heard a N/A 12a ping numerous times without failure, mainly because the timing was 180* off, but I can't say that I recommend it.
Fred, if Brett doesn't need that cooler, I have a WB that does. So don't go doing a silly thing like ditching it.
12-23-13, 06:47 PM
All this talk about fixing 1st gens is so exciting. I can't believe Ray has not got in on this conversation.
Donny good to hear from you. Hope all is well.
January OGTA could be special. Tara in her in cool new ride. Maybe Donny will make an appearance.
Donny good to hear from you. Hope all is well.
January OGTA could be special. Tara in her in cool new ride. Maybe Donny will make an appearance.
12-24-13, 09:01 AM
Thanks, Mike. Trying to make some changes and get back into the gang. Hope all is well with you, bud! I planned to get myself and Mr.Wankel to the January meet, but with how progress has been with the reassembly, other life chaos, and something I have to do the day of the meet, I don't know if that'll happen now. Still isn't going to stop me from trying though!
Brett, if you don't trust anyone up there to do the welding, bring your cooler down here. There are some really good welders down this way.
Brett, if you don't trust anyone up there to do the welding, bring your cooler down here. There are some really good welders down this way.
12-24-13, 01:29 PM
I'm here Mike, just hibernating for Christmas.
"Anyone remember how bad it is to convert to manual windows from power on a 1st gen?"
Tim, according to Mike, it's damn near impossible.
We need to get this guy to an OGTA meeting, he does some really good Old School impersonations:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...cpLP_eYMo#t=52
"Anyone remember how bad it is to convert to manual windows from power on a 1st gen?"
Tim, according to Mike, it's damn near impossible.
We need to get this guy to an OGTA meeting, he does some really good Old School impersonations:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...cpLP_eYMo#t=52
12-26-13, 08:00 AM
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Yeah, the gauges are about only as good as the sensor. He didn't leave one in it? I'm gonna have to ask for it back then .
I thought I heard pinging briefly when I drove it. That's the only reason I'm saying be careful.
Anyone remember how bad it is to convert to manual windows from power on a 1st gen?
.I thought I heard pinging briefly when I drove it. That's the only reason I'm saying be careful.
Anyone remember how bad it is to convert to manual windows from power on a 1st gen?
As for rich/lean, I'd highly recommend obtaining/building one of the the test lights for setting the mixture. It was always one of the things that was going to do, just never had the time.
12-28-13, 03:41 PM
I think the switch to manual from power windows is not bad, but I have not done it. Going from manual to power is more challenging, because the wiring harness for the windows is not installed.
Brett, if you take Ray's bait on the carb, let's talk. I think you have better options than a Holly.
Brett, if you take Ray's bait on the carb, let's talk. I think you have better options than a Holly.
12-28-13, 05:53 PM
I find it surprising that he's not pushing a Nikki!
12-29-13, 12:27 PM
Mazda3 beats out Corvette Stingray, Porsche Cayman, other exotics on NYTimes Best Cars of 2013 lists:
http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/29/au...geDk4X4Exy0mrw
SkyActiv, FTW!
http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/29/au...geDk4X4Exy0mrw
SkyActiv, FTW!
12-30-13, 07:17 PM
Is there an OGTA meeting / get together in the next few weeks?
Danny
1979 12a Turbo Megasquirt
1985 GSL-SE soon to be lemons / chumpcar
1993 Miata 12a Turbo project
Danny
1979 12a Turbo Megasquirt
1985 GSL-SE soon to be lemons / chumpcar
1993 Miata 12a Turbo project
12-30-13, 09:21 PM
And here you go Ray, what a cream puff: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4260365935.html
12-31-13, 03:26 PM
Looking for 84-85 front spindles. Picked up some from a OGTA member, but too much goat urine rusted the strut retention cap to the tube. Hoping to get the SA back on the road ASAP, today or tomorrow was the plan. Don't need anything but the spindles. Let me know if you got some!
01-03-14, 05:29 PM
If that 81 were an 84/85 Brett, I'd be all over it. Very pretty car in excellent condition, rare year (1st of the FB's) at a great price.
Be perfect for one of you OGTA wannabe's, it'd be neat to see it show up at an OGTA meeting.
How 'bout you Tommy? This is your chance to upgrade from the RX-8!
Be perfect for one of you OGTA wannabe's, it'd be neat to see it show up at an OGTA meeting.
How 'bout you Tommy? This is your chance to upgrade from the RX-8!
