Old guys with 12As club meeting
11-23-09, 11:09 PM
#8576
So for the past half hour I've been looking all over the OGTA thread trying to find a picture of Donnie's engine with the strut mount and everything to show a guy interested in buying mine that it works with the RB air breather and everything. It brought back a tonnnnn of memories... And reminded me that:
1- We need a mountain run soon
2- We need to recruit more young FC kids
Ah, night
1- We need a mountain run soon
2- We need to recruit more young FC kids
Ah, night
11-24-09, 11:07 AM
#8578
I tried last night to reset the mileage of the S5 cluster to match the actual mileage of the car (The S4 cluster's odometer reading), but I didn't have anything small or sturdy enough to pop off the c-lip that allows you to reposition the numbers.
A good thing is, things like the tach and speedometer seem to operate more smoothly than the S4 cluster. -Inhales deeply- Ah, has that new shitty gauge smell!
A good thing is, things like the tach and speedometer seem to operate more smoothly than the S4 cluster. -Inhales deeply- Ah, has that new shitty gauge smell!
11-24-09, 01:16 PM
#8581
I do believe my alternator may be dying. When I try to start the car, if it's not warm, the engine doesn't turn, but it sounds like the fan and things run. But after a while, the engine will finally turn over, and run just fine. It's strange.
Am I correct in my assumption that it's the alternator? Maybe that was the root of my fuel pump problems...
Maybe I should've checked that first. Oh well, I like the fuel pump set up now anyways.
Quad
Am I correct in my assumption that it's the alternator? Maybe that was the root of my fuel pump problems...
Maybe I should've checked that first. Oh well, I like the fuel pump set up now anyways.
Quad
11-24-09, 02:43 PM
#8583
Greg-the-Younger
11-24-09, 03:03 PM
#8584
Kevin, make sure your battery is good, put a charger on it and make sure it holds charge. If it does it may jist be the ground wire to the battery. Does it jump start? Alternators don't usually go bad, but if so a battery charger will get you going until you can pick one up (just don't drive at night).
Jeez Greg, I was thinking something else entirely. So is that your daughter or your wife? Or maybe just a lady friend from church?
I'll bring the FSM to the Dec. OGTA if it arrives in time.
Jeez Greg, I was thinking something else entirely. So is that your daughter or your wife? Or maybe just a lady friend from church?
I'll bring the FSM to the Dec. OGTA if it arrives in time.
11-24-09, 10:38 PM
#8586
Mr. RPM
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Hmm, RX-4 wasn't sold here until 1974. I wonder what he's really selling.
Well, the REPU kicked my *** today. Chad was nice enough to bring me a 4.63 diff, so I went to remove the 3.90. The axles are popped out, drive shaft removed, and diff is loose. I could swear that the ring gear is bigger than the hole in the housing, and the chunk just won't come out. Seriously, a buddy and I wrestled the loose diff for more than an hour before calling it quits.
I'm hoping this isn't one of those ship-in-a-bottle things....
Well, the REPU kicked my *** today. Chad was nice enough to bring me a 4.63 diff, so I went to remove the 3.90. The axles are popped out, drive shaft removed, and diff is loose. I could swear that the ring gear is bigger than the hole in the housing, and the chunk just won't come out. Seriously, a buddy and I wrestled the loose diff for more than an hour before calling it quits.
I'm hoping this isn't one of those ship-in-a-bottle things....
-roland
11-24-09, 11:01 PM
#8587
Kevin, make sure your battery is good, put a charger on it and make sure it holds charge. If it does it may jist be the ground wire to the battery. Does it jump start? Alternators don't usually go bad, but if so a battery charger will get you going until you can pick one up (just don't drive at night).
I've got a battery charger, and the battery shouldn't be bad, it's the optima out of the red car.
Quad
11-24-09, 11:09 PM
#8588
I do believe my alternator may be dying. When I try to start the car, if it's not warm, the engine doesn't turn, but it sounds like the fan and things run. But after a while, the engine will finally turn over, and run just fine. It's strange.
Am I correct in my assumption that it's the alternator? Maybe that was the root of my fuel pump problems...
Maybe I should've checked that first. Oh well, I like the fuel pump set up now anyways.
Quad
Am I correct in my assumption that it's the alternator? Maybe that was the root of my fuel pump problems...
Maybe I should've checked that first. Oh well, I like the fuel pump set up now anyways.
Quad
From your vague description...
- Ignition
- Starter
- Possibly a bad battery
- Main/Starter ground
If it was your alternator being bad, it wouldn't charge the battery hardly at all and the engine wouldn't run properly after a short time once the battery was drained of it's charged.
11-24-09, 11:15 PM
#8589
By warm, I mean at engine temperature. I haven't been able to really check warm ambient recently. It's been better recently, not too sure what's changed.
I really don't know how to be more descriptive. I try to turn the car over, and everything will spin up except the engine. If I hold the key in start for a while, then cut it off totally, then try to start it again, I get a blip of the engine, then it goes back. Then usually it'll start on the next attempt to start it. Recently it's been just fine, and I haven't really changed my driving habits, so we'll see if it keeps doing it.
Quad
I really don't know how to be more descriptive. I try to turn the car over, and everything will spin up except the engine. If I hold the key in start for a while, then cut it off totally, then try to start it again, I get a blip of the engine, then it goes back. Then usually it'll start on the next attempt to start it. Recently it's been just fine, and I haven't really changed my driving habits, so we'll see if it keeps doing it.
Quad
11-25-09, 12:58 AM
#8590
No distributor? No thanks
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Nope. It's crazy/rediculous/retardedly easy, but the chunk won't come out. I double checked everything today, spent another hour on it, and no joy. It's like the ring gear is too big to fit back through the flange. I feel like a retard.
11-25-09, 10:13 AM
#8591
By warm, I mean at engine temperature. I haven't been able to really check warm ambient recently. It's been better recently, not too sure what's changed.
I really don't know how to be more descriptive. I try to turn the car over, and everything will spin up except the engine. If I hold the key in start for a while, then cut it off totally, then try to start it again, I get a blip of the engine, then it goes back. Then usually it'll start on the next attempt to start it. Recently it's been just fine, and I haven't really changed my driving habits, so we'll see if it keeps doing it.
Quad
I really don't know how to be more descriptive. I try to turn the car over, and everything will spin up except the engine. If I hold the key in start for a while, then cut it off totally, then try to start it again, I get a blip of the engine, then it goes back. Then usually it'll start on the next attempt to start it. Recently it's been just fine, and I haven't really changed my driving habits, so we'll see if it keeps doing it.
Quad
Going to Mableton to get a nice white hood for the Maxima before work. Good day
11-25-09, 01:02 PM
#8595
Sleeper but still slow
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So lastnight my car decided to have every problem it has ever had since the rebuild.
It:
-started to overheat, then accepted half a gallon of water
-had it's clock and dome light quit on me
-blew the leading ignighter on the highway (thanks for the advice to keep a spare crit)
-finally had the wheel bearing give up, I was driving then there was a really loud -crack- noie from the front and all the wheel bearing noise went away, made it home though, and that one wheel well was pouring smoke
-and the brake pedal randomly got really squishy last night, and needs to be pumped a few times to build pressure and a firm pedal.
It:
-started to overheat, then accepted half a gallon of water
-had it's clock and dome light quit on me
-blew the leading ignighter on the highway (thanks for the advice to keep a spare crit)
-finally had the wheel bearing give up, I was driving then there was a really loud -crack- noie from the front and all the wheel bearing noise went away, made it home though, and that one wheel well was pouring smoke
-and the brake pedal randomly got really squishy last night, and needs to be pumped a few times to build pressure and a firm pedal.
11-25-09, 01:18 PM
#8596
No distributor? No thanks
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The busted bearing caused your brake pedal to suck. A wobbly hub and rotor will push the pads back into the caliper bore more than one that runs true. Your clock and dome light are a blown fuse. The ignitor is just bad luck. Let me know if you need another.
The overheating could just be a function of you pushing the car harder as the bearing started to seize, but maybe not if it was taking on water. You may just have a loose hose somewhere. You're lucky, though. That's a lot to go wrong and still make it home okay.
The overheating could just be a function of you pushing the car harder as the bearing started to seize, but maybe not if it was taking on water. You may just have a loose hose somewhere. You're lucky, though. That's a lot to go wrong and still make it home okay.
11-25-09, 01:22 PM
#8597
Sleeper but still slow
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The busted bearing caused your brake pedal to suck. A wobbly hub and rotor will push the pads back into the caliper bore more than one that runs true. Your clock and dome light are a blown fuse. The ignitor is just bad luck. Let me know if you need another.
The overheating could just be a function of you pushing the car harder as the bearing started to seize, but maybe not if it was taking on water. You may just have a loose hose somewhere. You're lucky, though. That's a lot to go wrong and still make it home okay.
The overheating could just be a function of you pushing the car harder as the bearing started to seize, but maybe not if it was taking on water. You may just have a loose hose somewhere. You're lucky, though. That's a lot to go wrong and still make it home okay.
11-25-09, 01:36 PM
#8598
No distributor? No thanks
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If you remember what Billy said, they used to just get new NAPA rotors on the race cars rather than ever servicing them. Apparently they were cheaper than dirt - may still be.
11-25-09, 02:06 PM
#8599
Sleeper but still slow
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They're like $40 a piece and it's what I was using. But I'd rather just get reliable driving and stopping rather than omptimum race condition durability for now. So I can put more money into the clutch job, and also saving for a rebuild this summer to catch the engine before it goes since it ran with a partially functioning OMP. (Atkins rebuild + 2 Atkins rotor housings that saw 1 race season =~=$1200.
11-25-09, 03:35 PM
#8600
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
So lastnight my car decided to have every problem it has ever had since the rebuild.
It:
...
-finally had the wheel bearing give up, I was driving then there was a really loud -crack- noie from the front and all the wheel bearing noise went away, made it home though, and that one wheel well was pouring smoke
-and the brake pedal randomly got really squishy last night, and needs to be pumped a few times to build pressure and a firm pedal.
It:
...
-finally had the wheel bearing give up, I was driving then there was a really loud -crack- noie from the front and all the wheel bearing noise went away, made it home though, and that one wheel well was pouring smoke
-and the brake pedal randomly got really squishy last night, and needs to be pumped a few times to build pressure and a firm pedal.