KevinGallo

Well, my rear hatch light doesn't work, so I don't know if I want to trust that source. I'll probably just go straight to the fuse block, and use the connection for the radio/clock.

Quad

msimonov

iTrader: (5)

Put a meter on the wires and test if you have voltage. Those little buggers like to go out. Its's a place were corrosion likes to build up. It is a real easy access to 12v switched power.

'87 turbo II

iTrader: (1)

umm doesn't the clock/radio always get power? I wouldn't want my fuel pnump running even when the ignition is off.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Yeah go for the switched power, if the light doesn't work it's probably the fixture, not the circuit. Just go in there and wrap a wire around the switched hot lead to the hatch light and run it to the pump, takes a 4 foot wire and 5 minutes.

That's a pretty shell Crit!



And here's a pretty FB:

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Ray, but it's not JUST a shell. Everything else comes with it.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

And these parts, which come with the 2 shell, are pretty cool too!:





Also I just realized something Kevin, that power connection to the rear hatch light IS NOT SWITCHED! It's a great place to connect your power antenna, but NOT GOOD for a fuel pump (even though that's what I used to keep my first 7 running while I was learning how the rear igniter works).

rolandgreauxii

iTrader: (5)

No problem - here are a couple of sweet RX3's - would be nice to add to the OGTA Old School. The third one really looks good!

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac...467477084.html

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/1466128914.html

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv...466183706.html

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qlr3dANdnOE

BTW...might bring my new fling to the next meet...No, not Craig...Cory.

GKW

It would be okay if you bring Alexz also.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Aaaaand, I'm spent.

cletus

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-...item45ef438c25

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

If I can get a clutch by next week, then I should be driving the SA to the next meeting. I will use what little time I get off for Thansgiving to install it.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I wonder what the reserve is.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

nice rx2.

ray who's that a pic of?

'87 turbo II

iTrader: (1)

X2 for who is the pretty girl in the picture.

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

That's an OLD picture of Alexz Johnson. A canadian singer/actress..

GKW1957

Just like our rotors.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekpM8eD3LM4

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Those are 12A's for sure.

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

Ewgh...

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

So it turns out, the FC's insurance doesn't really end until December 22nd. Idk what it is, but the cancellation notice says that date even though the premium was due at the beginning of November. Anywho, I think I'm going to take one last drive tomorrow afternoon to see some family before it finally goes under the knife (in mid Dec once finals are over, FYI). What a fun tuesday

And, I might be able to make it to the Dec OGTA too Not in the FC or FB though...

KevinGallo

Ok, so here's the plan for tomorrow morning. I wire the fuel pump to the constant 12V from the fuse block, using the radio fuse. Then, I install the on off toggle switch I bought into that line.

I have a question though. I know the positive is the one that needs to be connected to the fuse block, what do I do with the negative? Just ground it somewhere on the car?

My reasoning for wiring the to the constant 12V is so I don't have to worry about any relays or anything like that. As long as the car has juice, I can make the battery run the fuel pump. I've always been a fan of things working mechanically, rather than relying on electricity.

If this is a terrible idea, please let me know, but please be nice about it =)

I haven't done any tests as of yet, I just figure, I had some 12 gauge wire, and a toggle switch cost me $3 at Fry's (my current place of employment), so I figure it wouldn't hurt anyways.

Quad

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

If it's grounding and just not getting power, just tap that positive wire into the radio fuse, put the switch in where ever, and tie the other end into the positive wire going to the pump. You could ground it to the chassis if you wanted, but it probably isn't necessary since the switch in the circuit is the the positive line.

The fuel pump in my FB is hardwired, too, since the stock wiring doesn't get power and I'm too lazy to find out why. It doesn't affect anything though and is pretty safe just plugged into the interior fuse block. Hope you get it running decent .

Speaking of the switch being on the positive wire, on the FB's, does the door light/ dome light deal use a single positive wire with 2 ground for both the door sensor and dome light with switches in there? I was playing around the other day, and since there's only 2 wires going to the light, the only thing I could think of is that my model FB didn't come with a dome light as an option, only the door light (which makes no sense) or that those 2 wires are the + and - for the door sensor for the light and the dome light uses the whole mount as it's ground. Make sense?

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

Brett, that's sacrelige.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

The FBs all had the same light setup. 12V hot coming in, and two ground paths. If you flip the switch to ON, then you ground the light to one of the screws that holds the mirror up. If you leave the switch in the middle, then either door switch can ground it and do the same thing when the door is opened.