Old guys with 12As club meeting
#8476
Sounds like there may be a few new cars at the December meet, I'll see if I can get Mike to drive the Blue One and ask Michelle to drive the Gray Ghost, that'll boost the 12A count significantly.
Kevin be careful with that fuel pump hard wiring, there's a reason they have it relayed. You could end up with your fuel tank emptying at an inappropriate time.
Chances are the pump is good, but you should check this by doing the performance test described in the FAC (basically stick a milk jug under the fuel feed to the carb and see how long it takes to fill up).
If the pump is good check the rear ignitor and it's connections, they may be weak and fading out from time to time, causing your symptoms. Does your tachometer also get squirrelly when you lose pressure?
The fuel pump feeds off the rear igniter so it won't keep running if the car stalls out, like after a crash when you don't want fuel squirting all over the place. The tach is also feeding off the rear igniter, so you will get both symptoms at the same time if it is the cause.
And yes, I think the RX-7 club site is having some rear igniter issues too, it keeps fading out from time to time, takes too long to load. I'll bet Kent is up to another one of his tricks, watch your sigs everybody.
Kevin be careful with that fuel pump hard wiring, there's a reason they have it relayed. You could end up with your fuel tank emptying at an inappropriate time.
Chances are the pump is good, but you should check this by doing the performance test described in the FAC (basically stick a milk jug under the fuel feed to the carb and see how long it takes to fill up).
If the pump is good check the rear ignitor and it's connections, they may be weak and fading out from time to time, causing your symptoms. Does your tachometer also get squirrelly when you lose pressure?
The fuel pump feeds off the rear igniter so it won't keep running if the car stalls out, like after a crash when you don't want fuel squirting all over the place. The tach is also feeding off the rear igniter, so you will get both symptoms at the same time if it is the cause.
And yes, I think the RX-7 club site is having some rear igniter issues too, it keeps fading out from time to time, takes too long to load. I'll bet Kent is up to another one of his tricks, watch your sigs everybody.
I figured there had to be a special way to rewire it, and I found a way to do it to a 2nd gen, but more digging will be required to do it to a first. I know someone in the OGTA has done it before, I just can't remember who it was...
The plan for tomorrow is to unplug the current harness that is in (Crit's) and plug my old one back in, and see if that makes a difference. It might have something to do with the little short plug that's on the harness...
Quad
Last edited by KevinGallo; 11-14-09 at 11:13 AM.
#8478
hey guys, those of u that know who bill is, he just got n 85 gsl-se. supposed to have a mandeville rebuild. drove it alittle while ago and if it is, it's stock rebuild. as well as it starts and runs, there's no way it's got the 220k that's on the odo. any way, $600 with all the extra parts po had been getting off ebay. nib strut cart(pair), nib clutch, pp, release bearing, at least one box brake pads and some other things i didn't notice what they were. pix to come.
#8480
Needs More Noise
iTrader: (12)
Even more news (assuming you guys can actually access the site, it's been really hit and miss for me lately).
The fuel pump will run on start up, but will cut off after the key is back in the on position.
I really need to just do the engine swap, and be done with it. That should solve that issue in a jiffy.
Quad
The fuel pump will run on start up, but will cut off after the key is back in the on position.
I really need to just do the engine swap, and be done with it. That should solve that issue in a jiffy.
Quad
Grab a meter and find a wire with 12V source at "start" and "on" at the fuse box. Once you have found it run a wire from it back to the fuel pump. Done.
-billy
#8481
#8482
Dude, sounds like a huge bunch of work to swap a motor due to a fuel pump not running when the key is on position.
Grab a meter and find a wire with 12V source at "start" and "on" at the fuse box. Once you have found it run a wire from it back to the fuel pump. Done.
-billy
Grab a meter and find a wire with 12V source at "start" and "on" at the fuse box. Once you have found it run a wire from it back to the fuel pump. Done.
-billy
So if I just go ahead and do that, I should be kosher.
Quad
#8483
So if the tachometer quits at the same time the engine stalls, it is usually because the rear igniter is not working, either because it is bad or going bad or because the connections are weak. That's the way it works in the GSL's anyway and I'm pretty sure it's the same in the SE's.
Why don't you just check your rear igniter? It might just be the connections, but if the unit itself is going bad you can get a temporary fix (except for not having a tach) by doing the direct wiring to the fuel pump until you can find a replacement.
This is a lot easier than swapping motors OR rewiring your car.
Why don't you just check your rear igniter? It might just be the connections, but if the unit itself is going bad you can get a temporary fix (except for not having a tach) by doing the direct wiring to the fuel pump until you can find a replacement.
This is a lot easier than swapping motors OR rewiring your car.
#8484
So if the tachometer quits at the same time the engine stalls, it is usually because the rear igniter is not working, either because it is bad or going bad or because the connections are weak. That's the way it works in the GSL's anyway and I'm pretty sure it's the same in the SE's.
Why don't you just check your rear igniter? It might just be the connections, but if the unit itself is going bad you can get a temporary fix (except for not having a tach) by doing the direct wiring to the fuel pump until you can find a replacement.
This is a lot easier than swapping motors OR rewiring your car.
Why don't you just check your rear igniter? It might just be the connections, but if the unit itself is going bad you can get a temporary fix (except for not having a tach) by doing the direct wiring to the fuel pump until you can find a replacement.
This is a lot easier than swapping motors OR rewiring your car.
Quad
#8485
If the tach is still tracking engine rpms, it's still working. When it's an igniter problem the tach will stutter and/or drop to 0 rpms even when the engine is spinning. You can also check the tach without the engine running - when you engage the key, you should see the engine rpms registering, probably around 1000 rpm, if the igniter is working. If the igniter is out it either will sit at 0 (if it's completely gone) or sputter up and down, if it's giving out or you have a squirrelly connection.
Michael, is Bill ready to sell me that SE yet?
Michael, is Bill ready to sell me that SE yet?
#8486
If the tach is still tracking engine rpms, it's still working. When it's an igniter problem the tach will stutter and/or drop to 0 rpms even when the engine is spinning. You can also check the tach without the engine running - when you engage the key, you should see the engine rpms registering, probably around 1000 rpm, if the igniter is working. If the igniter is out it either will sit at 0 (if it's completely gone) or sputter up and down, if it's giving out or you have a squirrelly connection.
Michael, is Bill ready to sell me that SE yet?
Michael, is Bill ready to sell me that SE yet?
And I'm almost positive I didn't bust ANOTHER igniter, but you never know... Especially with Nightmare..
Quad
#8488
Yes, when you engage the key the engine turns over and this should show on the tach; if the tack doesn't move the trailing igniter is probably bad or poorly connected. Just turning the key to the on position without engaging the starter won't do anything to the tach.
In your case, since it happens when the car is running, you want to watch what the tach does the next time you start having the problem. If it acts real squirrelly, bouncing around or going to 0 rpms, it's probably the trailing igniter. If the tach still follows the engine revs, it's probably something else (even if the car stalls, the engine will turn over while the car is moving and in gear and this should show on the tach).
More than once I've messed up the connection to the igniter when I plugged it in, it's not hard to get one of the three prongs that connects to the wiring harness bent so it doesn't go into it's slot. Anyway you certainly want to diagnose this before you make any other big changes.
Michael, I'm just kidding about Bill selling the car, I'm sure he's having a ball. I just miss the White One. To have another White One in an SE model is my fantasy. Anybody got one for sale?
In your case, since it happens when the car is running, you want to watch what the tach does the next time you start having the problem. If it acts real squirrelly, bouncing around or going to 0 rpms, it's probably the trailing igniter. If the tach still follows the engine revs, it's probably something else (even if the car stalls, the engine will turn over while the car is moving and in gear and this should show on the tach).
More than once I've messed up the connection to the igniter when I plugged it in, it's not hard to get one of the three prongs that connects to the wiring harness bent so it doesn't go into it's slot. Anyway you certainly want to diagnose this before you make any other big changes.
Michael, I'm just kidding about Bill selling the car, I'm sure he's having a ball. I just miss the White One. To have another White One in an SE model is my fantasy. Anybody got one for sale?
#8490
Yes, when you engage the key the engine turns over and this should show on the tach; if the tack doesn't move the trailing igniter is probably bad or poorly connected. Just turning the key to the on position without engaging the starter won't do anything to the tach.
In your case, since it happens when the car is running, you want to watch what the tach does the next time you start having the problem. If it acts real squirrelly, bouncing around or going to 0 rpms, it's probably the trailing igniter. If the tach still follows the engine revs, it's probably something else (even if the car stalls, the engine will turn over while the car is moving and in gear and this should show on the tach).
More than once I've messed up the connection to the igniter when I plugged it in, it's not hard to get one of the three prongs that connects to the wiring harness bent so it doesn't go into it's slot. Anyway you certainly want to diagnose this before you make any other big changes.
Michael, I'm just kidding about Bill selling the car, I'm sure he's having a ball. I just miss the White One. To have another White One in an SE model is my fantasy. Anybody got one for sale?
In your case, since it happens when the car is running, you want to watch what the tach does the next time you start having the problem. If it acts real squirrelly, bouncing around or going to 0 rpms, it's probably the trailing igniter. If the tach still follows the engine revs, it's probably something else (even if the car stalls, the engine will turn over while the car is moving and in gear and this should show on the tach).
More than once I've messed up the connection to the igniter when I plugged it in, it's not hard to get one of the three prongs that connects to the wiring harness bent so it doesn't go into it's slot. Anyway you certainly want to diagnose this before you make any other big changes.
Michael, I'm just kidding about Bill selling the car, I'm sure he's having a ball. I just miss the White One. To have another White One in an SE model is my fantasy. Anybody got one for sale?
Quad
#8491
Mr. RPM
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Georgia
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-roland
#8492
Winter Rotary
iTrader: (5)
Kevin, you are a lot like I used to be before I got whipped into shape by the old guys crew.
Just. *******. Listen.
You can sit there and try to talk yourself or someone else out of what you need to do to try something easier or whatever...but you'll just be spinning your wheels (Or in your case...not...)... you gotta get over that and learn to diagnose the right way, which is how people here are trying to tell you.
Like Nike says...
Just do it.
Just. *******. Listen.
You can sit there and try to talk yourself or someone else out of what you need to do to try something easier or whatever...but you'll just be spinning your wheels (Or in your case...not...)... you gotta get over that and learn to diagnose the right way, which is how people here are trying to tell you.
Like Nike says...
Just do it.
#8493
Sleeper but still slow
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
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I am showcasing my car to the forum now that I got pics. all of our hard work incarnated into one car.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...72#post9624972
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...72#post9624972
#8494
Lettuce be cereal
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Atl Ga
Posts: 571
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So I know there was a Mazmart meet today. Where are the pics? Import Atlanta has some up. Crit I know you were there and so was Jeremy. Wheres the pictures at guys???
#8495
Mr. RPM
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I did not get any pics but here is a link to some from the meet!
-roland
http://southrnfresh.wordpress.com/20...rt-mazda-meet/
-roland
http://southrnfresh.wordpress.com/20...rt-mazda-meet/
#8496
ditched the 2nd gens.
iTrader: (19)
Kevin, you are a lot like I used to be before I got whipped into shape by the old guys crew.
Just. *******. Listen.
You can sit there and try to talk yourself or someone else out of what you need to do to try something easier or whatever...but you'll just be spinning your wheels (Or in your case...not...)... you gotta get over that and learn to diagnose the right way, which is how people here are trying to tell you.
Like Nike says...
Just do it.
Just. *******. Listen.
You can sit there and try to talk yourself or someone else out of what you need to do to try something easier or whatever...but you'll just be spinning your wheels (Or in your case...not...)... you gotta get over that and learn to diagnose the right way, which is how people here are trying to tell you.
Like Nike says...
Just do it.
#8497
#8499
Kevin you have a hot 12V lead source in your rear hatch, the connection that feeds the rear hatch light will give you 12V to power the fuel pump, fairly easy to wire from there through your storage box to the pump.
Nice picture Crit, even though there isn't a 12A in sight.
'Course we can fix that:
Nice picture Crit, even though there isn't a 12A in sight.
'Course we can fix that:
#8500
No distributor? No thanks
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
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Billy's RX-3 is a 12A, so it counts.
By the way, if anyone wants to finish the RX-2, it's for sale.
https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-vehicles-parts-116/74-rx-2-atlanta-%243-500-a-873818/
By the way, if anyone wants to finish the RX-2, it's for sale.
https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-vehicles-parts-116/74-rx-2-atlanta-%243-500-a-873818/