Originally Posted by ray green

Sounds like there may be a few new cars at the December meet, I'll see if I can get Mike to drive the Blue One and ask Michelle to drive the Gray Ghost, that'll boost the 12A count significantly.

Kevin be careful with that fuel pump hard wiring, there's a reason they have it relayed. You could end up with your fuel tank emptying at an inappropriate time.

Chances are the pump is good, but you should check this by doing the performance test described in the FAC (basically stick a milk jug under the fuel feed to the carb and see how long it takes to fill up).

If the pump is good check the rear ignitor and it's connections, they may be weak and fading out from time to time, causing your symptoms. Does your tachometer also get squirrelly when you lose pressure?

The fuel pump feeds off the rear igniter so it won't keep running if the car stalls out, like after a crash when you don't want fuel squirting all over the place. The tach is also feeding off the rear igniter, so you will get both symptoms at the same time if it is the cause.

And yes, I think the RX-7 club site is having some rear igniter issues too, it keeps fading out from time to time, takes too long to load. I'll bet Kent is up to another one of his tricks, watch your sigs everybody.

Originally Posted by rxtasy3

hey guys, those of u that know who bill is, he just got n 85 gsl-se. supposed to have a mandeville rebuild. drove it alittle while ago and if it is, it's stock rebuild. as well as it starts and runs, there's no way it's got the 220k that's on the odo. any way, $600 with all the extra parts po had been getting off ebay. nib strut cart(pair), nib clutch, pp, release bearing, at least one box brake pads and some other things i didn't notice what they were. pix to come.

Originally Posted by KevinGallo

Even more news (assuming you guys can actually access the site, it's been really hit and miss for me lately).

The fuel pump will run on start up, but will cut off after the key is back in the on position.

I really need to just do the engine swap, and be done with it. That should solve that issue in a jiffy.

Quad

Originally Posted by ray green

Did you check the trailing igniter? Your symptoms are classic trailing igniter symptoms. What happens to the tach when the fuel pressure drops?

Originally Posted by bwaits_

Dude, sounds like a huge bunch of work to swap a motor due to a fuel pump not running when the key is on position.

Grab a meter and find a wire with 12V source at "start" and "on" at the fuse box. Once you have found it run a wire from it back to the fuel pump. Done.

-billy

Originally Posted by ray green

So if the tachometer quits at the same time the engine stalls, it is usually because the rear igniter is not working, either because it is bad or going bad or because the connections are weak. That's the way it works in the GSL's anyway and I'm pretty sure it's the same in the SE's.

Why don't you just check your rear igniter? It might just be the connections, but if the unit itself is going bad you can get a temporary fix (except for not having a tach) by doing the direct wiring to the fuel pump until you can find a replacement.

This is a lot easier than swapping motors OR rewiring your car.

Originally Posted by ray green

If the tach is still tracking engine rpms, it's still working. When it's an igniter problem the tach will stutter and/or drop to 0 rpms even when the engine is spinning. You can also check the tach without the engine running - when you engage the key, you should see the engine rpms registering, probably around 1000 rpm, if the igniter is working. If the igniter is out it either will sit at 0 (if it's completely gone) or sputter up and down, if it's giving out or you have a squirrelly connection.

Michael, is Bill ready to sell me that SE yet?

Originally Posted by ray green

Michael, is Bill ready to sell me that SE yet?

Originally Posted by ray green

Yes, when you engage the key the engine turns over and this should show on the tach; if the tack doesn't move the trailing igniter is probably bad or poorly connected. Just turning the key to the on position without engaging the starter won't do anything to the tach.

In your case, since it happens when the car is running, you want to watch what the tach does the next time you start having the problem. If it acts real squirrelly, bouncing around or going to 0 rpms, it's probably the trailing igniter. If the tach still follows the engine revs, it's probably something else (even if the car stalls, the engine will turn over while the car is moving and in gear and this should show on the tach).

More than once I've messed up the connection to the igniter when I plugged it in, it's not hard to get one of the three prongs that connects to the wiring harness bent so it doesn't go into it's slot. Anyway you certainly want to diagnose this before you make any other big changes.

Michael, I'm just kidding about Bill selling the car, I'm sure he's having a ball. I just miss the White One. To have another White One in an SE model is my fantasy. Anybody got one for sale?

Originally Posted by KevinGallo

Well, the thing is, that the tach will sit at 0 until the car fires up (which it will once the float bowls are full, since the pump runs in the start position), it just stops once it gets running, but the tach will hold while the car is idling...

Quad

Originally Posted by Acesanugal

Kevin, you are a lot like I used to be before I got whipped into shape by the old guys crew.

Just. *******. Listen.

You can sit there and try to talk yourself or someone else out of what you need to do to try something easier or whatever...but you'll just be spinning your wheels (Or in your case...not...)... you gotta get over that and learn to diagnose the right way, which is how people here are trying to tell you.

Like Nike says...

Just do it.

Originally Posted by rolandgreauxii

Dude, you need to do what Billy said. Grab a meter and find a wire with 12V source at "start" and "on" at the fuse box. Once you have found it run a wire from it back to the fuel pump. Done.

-roland