Old guys with 12As club meeting
#8251
find a +12v source with the switch on engine off. put that to the pump. a test light is an inexpensive way to find these wires.
crit, in a previous post he mentioned how the engine would bog when trying to rev the engine from idle. but i think it was that if he pumped it alittle while trying it would rev up. making me think it's an off idle issue and maybe in the ap or transition.
crit, in a previous post he mentioned how the engine would bog when trying to rev the engine from idle. but i think it was that if he pumped it alittle while trying it would rev up. making me think it's an off idle issue and maybe in the ap or transition.
#8252
find a +12v source with the switch on engine off. put that to the pump. a test light is an inexpensive way to find these wires.
crit, in a previous post he mentioned how the engine would bog when trying to rev the engine from idle. but i think it was that if he pumped it alittle while trying it would rev up. making me think it's an off idle issue and maybe in the ap or transition.
crit, in a previous post he mentioned how the engine would bog when trying to rev the engine from idle. but i think it was that if he pumped it alittle while trying it would rev up. making me think it's an off idle issue and maybe in the ap or transition.
Yea. If I open the throttle from idle, it stalls, but if I give it a couple short bursts, then open it, it's fine...
Quad
Last edited by KevinGallo; 10-26-09 at 12:50 PM.
#8253
No distributor? No thanks
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Then you've got a problem with your progression or transition circuit (two names for the same thing). If you can take it off again, it may be worth a good cleaning. You'll likely find clogged passages that are drilled into the primary bores and enter JUST above the throttle plates when they're fully closed. As they're cracked open, they'll expose these holes to the vacuum on the back side. I'd expect to find a clog in that passage.
#8254
Then you've got a problem with your progression or transition circuit (two names for the same thing). If you can take it off again, it may be worth a good cleaning. You'll likely find clogged passages that are drilled into the primary bores and enter JUST above the throttle plates when they're fully closed. As they're cracked open, they'll expose these holes to the vacuum on the back side. I'd expect to find a clog in that passage.
Sounds easy enough. I'll try tomorrow morning before work.
Quad
#8256
No distributor? No thanks
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Don't forget to look up those Logicon bulbs and get them ordered. Not hard, but a pain in the ***. I searched here briefly and couldn't find the part number. I've seen it suggested that you try an auto parts place and that you try Radio Shack. Just take a bulb in there with you and see if you can find something. If you do, by all means POST IT and let us know what part number you used.
Also, when you reinstall the Logicon there will be more than one 3-pin connector to choose from when powering it up. One's correct, the other's wrong. Also make sure the two bullet connectors at the very, very bottom of the dash, headed into the center console, are NOT plugged into each other. For automatic cars, they power a bulb down there. In your car, they power a black cloud of smoke that comes from your dimmer!
Also, when you reinstall the Logicon there will be more than one 3-pin connector to choose from when powering it up. One's correct, the other's wrong. Also make sure the two bullet connectors at the very, very bottom of the dash, headed into the center console, are NOT plugged into each other. For automatic cars, they power a bulb down there. In your car, they power a black cloud of smoke that comes from your dimmer!
#8257
Rock Auto has the logicon bulbs for $0.30 each in packs of 10 (that's $3.00 for 10 for the mathematically challenged).
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
Part numbers: #09421330, 09442445, 9421330, W3W
Order today Chris and they'll be here for next weekend. You may want some help putting that logicon in, it's an Unfriendly Electrical Component (UEC).
Crit, Chris doesn't need to worry about his dimmer switch, I already fried it.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
Part numbers: #09421330, 09442445, 9421330, W3W
Order today Chris and they'll be here for next weekend. You may want some help putting that logicon in, it's an Unfriendly Electrical Component (UEC).
Crit, Chris doesn't need to worry about his dimmer switch, I already fried it.
#8258
Rotary Freak
Tim from the Xroads was with us. He brought some good homebrew, which was similar to Blue Moon. He was hoping some of the OGTA guys could have made it. We had a blast.
Holly
#8260
No distributor? No thanks
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For what it's worth, Ray, that's not a logicon bulb in your pic. It'll be a grain-of-wheat bulb with long, exposed wires on the end.
Now that I've had a moment to look, that's a regular 194 bulb, like what's used to light up the ash tray and rotary ***** for the HVAC. The Logicon bulbs are MUCH smaller and very different. Rock Auto doesn't list any bulbs for the Logicon - perhaps the dealers have them.
-= Edit =- I just got off the phone with Mike at Sutherlin. There are two part numbers that may be that bulb - the diagram's unclear and actually calls for 5 of one part number, and 1 of the other. Diagram shows 5x FA5576196 and 1x FA5566195. They're around $4-$5 bucks each from the dealer, but they CAN still get them. Chris, I'll check some of the bound parts manuals I have, which are often clearer than the scans that the dealer works from. Either way, a few of those should have the logicon working great.
On second thought, one of those may be for bulbs, and the other would be the orange rubber condom that came on some of them. Who knows.
Now that I've had a moment to look, that's a regular 194 bulb, like what's used to light up the ash tray and rotary ***** for the HVAC. The Logicon bulbs are MUCH smaller and very different. Rock Auto doesn't list any bulbs for the Logicon - perhaps the dealers have them.
-= Edit =- I just got off the phone with Mike at Sutherlin. There are two part numbers that may be that bulb - the diagram's unclear and actually calls for 5 of one part number, and 1 of the other. Diagram shows 5x FA5576196 and 1x FA5566195. They're around $4-$5 bucks each from the dealer, but they CAN still get them. Chris, I'll check some of the bound parts manuals I have, which are often clearer than the scans that the dealer works from. Either way, a few of those should have the logicon working great.
On second thought, one of those may be for bulbs, and the other would be the orange rubber condom that came on some of them. Who knows.
#8261
Sleeper but still slow
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Well I looked online and found out the standard 12V GOW bulb is 3.7mm in diameter, and used for model trains often, but since it's a 12V bulb, and 3.7mm, I was going to try to use a 3mm 12V LED instead. I found a set of 100 bulbs for $40, but I'd have to bundle and sell Logicon sets out to make back some of that money.
#8263
No distributor? No thanks
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Logicon is the HVAC controller for S3 GSL and GSL-SE cars. It's an automatic switch setup. The bulbs don't keep it from working, though you don't know where the Logicon is set to blow air without it. It's only an issue because he's got it removed from the car, know it has a blown bulb or two, and it's a pain in the *** to do later. Might as well get bulbs this week to make it easy to service next weekend.
#8264
oooooohhhh, heat a air controls. well why didn't he just say so. logicon sounds like some sort of electronic controller for the engine or something. i figured it used the same type bulbs that illuminates other stuff like the instrument cluster, etc. so this special bulb is what lights up behind the push botton for a/c or fresh/recirculate like i have? but wait, mine's not a gsl or se.
wooo hooo! i've hit the 3000 mark.
wooo hooo! i've hit the 3000 mark.
#8265
Congrats on #3000 Michael!
OK I took one of the bulbs into Autozone today and matched it up with a Sylvania 2721 (the fan and heater ***** also use those lights Chris, you will need to get two more for those; also note, the Sylvania bulbs are made in Germany, whereas a lot of those "wheat bulbs" you find in packs of 50 or 100 are made in China, might be a quality issue here, which you don't want with a logicon that takes all day to remove and replace).
The problem is autozone wants $5.00 plus tax for two lights, WAY too much money!
So a google search will give you this, which lists several sources, most for under $1.00 a bulb (and one at $0.37):
http://www.google.com/products?q=syl...ed=0CCMQrQQwAw
But if all else fails you can get what you need at the autozone right here in Jefferson for about $20.
OK I took one of the bulbs into Autozone today and matched it up with a Sylvania 2721 (the fan and heater ***** also use those lights Chris, you will need to get two more for those; also note, the Sylvania bulbs are made in Germany, whereas a lot of those "wheat bulbs" you find in packs of 50 or 100 are made in China, might be a quality issue here, which you don't want with a logicon that takes all day to remove and replace).
The problem is autozone wants $5.00 plus tax for two lights, WAY too much money!
So a google search will give you this, which lists several sources, most for under $1.00 a bulb (and one at $0.37):
http://www.google.com/products?q=syl...ed=0CCMQrQQwAw
But if all else fails you can get what you need at the autozone right here in Jefferson for about $20.
#8267
No distributor? No thanks
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Hey Ray, don't forget that he needs the long exposed wire leads so he can wrap them around the base and make his own contacts. They don't pop into holders.
#8269
Lettuce be cereal
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My friend told me that he was going to sell the place. Apparently he knows Jefferey because he hangs out at the one in Braselton and that's where Jefferey goes to drink.