Old guys with 12As club meeting
09-21-09, 11:50 AM
#7379
On another note, Mazcare just called, and said it might be the AFM. Charlie said he can get it running if he pulls the plug on it, so it's probably shot. Does anyone have one I can borrow for a few days, so I can get it home? I don't need to keep it, unless you're selling for a low price, but I'm probably just gonna end up parting it out anyways. I know I've had some interest in the parts off of it, along with myself wanting some parts to stick onto the 12A. I just need an AFM to limp it home so I can get it away from Mazcare. I'll give it back when I'm done.
Quad
Last edited by KevinGallo; 09-21-09 at 11:53 AM.
09-21-09, 11:57 AM
#7380
Hey dudes, check out this rx-7 compression tester:
They go for about $250 from these guys:
www.twistedrotors.com
Although we might be able to get an OGTA discount.
How 'bout a group buy? If 10 of us chip in $25 each will get it, we can house it with Crit or Billy.
I'm game, I'd love to check on how my 12A is chugging once in awhile.
They go for about $250 from these guys:
www.twistedrotors.com
Although we might be able to get an OGTA discount.
How 'bout a group buy? If 10 of us chip in $25 each will get it, we can house it with Crit or Billy.
I'm game, I'd love to check on how my 12A is chugging once in awhile.
09-21-09, 01:52 PM
#7383
Rotary Freak
Tell Jason he has to come up from the south side and visit our OGTA meetings.
See you at Deals Gap, if not somewhere before then. Take care.
Holly
09-21-09, 02:11 PM
#7384
I'm down for chipping in for the comp tester too.
And Ray, it's an Air Flow Meter. Works kind of like a choke on your carb. It opens and closes allowing more or less air in the system depending on the amount of throttle being applied.
Quad
And Ray, it's an Air Flow Meter. Works kind of like a choke on your carb. It opens and closes allowing more or less air in the system depending on the amount of throttle being applied.
Quad
09-21-09, 03:11 PM
#7387
No distributor? No thanks
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Even us 19 year olds understand. Lol.
On another note, Mazcare just called, and said it might be the AFM. Charlie said he can get it running if he pulls the plug on it, so it's probably shot. Does anyone have one I can borrow for a few days, so I can get it home? I don't need to keep it, unless you're selling for a low price, but I'm probably just gonna end up parting it out anyways. I know I've had some interest in the parts off of it, along with myself wanting some parts to stick onto the 12A. I just need an AFM to limp it home so I can get it away from Mazcare. I'll give it back when I'm done.
Quad
On another note, Mazcare just called, and said it might be the AFM. Charlie said he can get it running if he pulls the plug on it, so it's probably shot. Does anyone have one I can borrow for a few days, so I can get it home? I don't need to keep it, unless you're selling for a low price, but I'm probably just gonna end up parting it out anyways. I know I've had some interest in the parts off of it, along with myself wanting some parts to stick onto the 12A. I just need an AFM to limp it home so I can get it away from Mazcare. I'll give it back when I'm done.
Quad
Kevin, I've got it all. I'm gonna have to make a list, though, before I forget what I've got out to you. Let me know when you want to pick it up. BTW, Roland told me that he suggested it might be the intake air temp sensor on the plenum, just below the BAC valve. You might want to trace that through the wiring harness to the ECU, and see if you've got a resistance on that circuit.</p>
09-21-09, 03:20 PM
#7388
Mr. RPM
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- raises hand again -
Kevin, I've got it all. I'm gonna have to make a list, though, before I forget what I've got out to you. Let me know when you want to pick it up. BTW, Roland told me that he suggested it might be the intake air temp sensor on the plenum, just below the BAC valve. You might want to trace that through the wiring harness to the ECU, and see if you've got a resistance on that circuit.</p>
Kevin, I've got it all. I'm gonna have to make a list, though, before I forget what I've got out to you. Let me know when you want to pick it up. BTW, Roland told me that he suggested it might be the intake air temp sensor on the plenum, just below the BAC valve. You might want to trace that through the wiring harness to the ECU, and see if you've got a resistance on that circuit.</p>
If Quad decides to part it out I am interested in some pieces!
09-21-09, 04:00 PM
#7389
Rotary Enthusiast
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Ok, general car question.
Off of our normal stuff, since it's a FWD boinger, but still gonna ask.
Friend has an Audi A3, 6 speed, that suddenly will no longer go into gear at all, even with the car off. (Shifter won't go in is what I mean by that). Still under warranty, so she had it towed to the dealership, where they tell her the clutch is bad, and it isn't covered under warranty, and it will be $2300. Called the other Jim Ellis audi dealer (same company mind you), said it would be $1400.
To me it seems like it would be something other than a bad clutch. With the car off, it should go into some gear. You might have to roll it a bit (did that btw to see if it would go in), but it should go in.
Any thoughts?
Glad I sold my Audi when I did
.
Off of our normal stuff, since it's a FWD boinger, but still gonna ask.
Friend has an Audi A3, 6 speed, that suddenly will no longer go into gear at all, even with the car off. (Shifter won't go in is what I mean by that). Still under warranty, so she had it towed to the dealership, where they tell her the clutch is bad, and it isn't covered under warranty, and it will be $2300. Called the other Jim Ellis audi dealer (same company mind you), said it would be $1400.
To me it seems like it would be something other than a bad clutch. With the car off, it should go into some gear. You might have to roll it a bit (did that btw to see if it would go in), but it should go in.
Any thoughts?
Glad I sold my Audi when I did
.
09-21-09, 05:01 PM
#7390
No distributor? No thanks
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Not a bad clutch, unless it's a DSG unit which is totally wacko. The input shaft doesn't telescope or anything, so it'll be piloted into the back of the engine like normal. Everything from the input shaft back is totally independent of the clutch. If the throwout is bad, then it won't go into EVERY gear without rocking, but it should go into one or two, especially if you're rocking the car. If they insist it's a bad clutch, she might want to stick around while they do the work (if they claim it won't be under warranty, then she has every right to) and she should get a demolished clutch back in the end. If the clutch isn't destroyed, then Audi owes her warranty work.
09-21-09, 05:02 PM
#7391
Mr. RPM
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Ok, general car question.
Off of our normal stuff, since it's a FWD boinger, but still gonna ask.
Friend has an Audi A3, 6 speed, that suddenly will no longer go into gear at all, even with the car off. (Shifter won't go in is what I mean by that). Still under warranty, so she had it towed to the dealership, where they tell her the clutch is bad, and it isn't covered under warranty, and it will be $2300. Called the other Jim Ellis audi dealer (same company mind you), said it would be $1400.
To me it seems like it would be something other than a bad clutch. With the car off, it should go into some gear. You might have to roll it a bit (did that btw to see if it would go in), but it should go in.
Any thoughts?
Glad I sold my Audi when I did.
Off of our normal stuff, since it's a FWD boinger, but still gonna ask.
Friend has an Audi A3, 6 speed, that suddenly will no longer go into gear at all, even with the car off. (Shifter won't go in is what I mean by that). Still under warranty, so she had it towed to the dealership, where they tell her the clutch is bad, and it isn't covered under warranty, and it will be $2300. Called the other Jim Ellis audi dealer (same company mind you), said it would be $1400.
To me it seems like it would be something other than a bad clutch. With the car off, it should go into some gear. You might have to roll it a bit (did that btw to see if it would go in), but it should go in.
Any thoughts?
Glad I sold my Audi when I did
.
09-21-09, 06:37 PM
#7393
And I wonder, still I wonder, who'll stop the rain
-Creedance Clearwater Revival (1970)
Maybe Audi has some kind of manual/auto "clutch" arrangement that has electronic feedback regulation on it. There must be some reason why it costs $1,400-$2,300 (clutch kit for my FB is about $140, ten times less - yet another reason to drive an FB). Did you check the fuse box?
-Creedance Clearwater Revival (1970)
Maybe Audi has some kind of manual/auto "clutch" arrangement that has electronic feedback regulation on it. There must be some reason why it costs $1,400-$2,300 (clutch kit for my FB is about $140, ten times less - yet another reason to drive an FB). Did you check the fuse box?
09-21-09, 07:25 PM
#7394
Mr. RPM
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And I wonder, still I wonder, who'll stop the rain
-Creedance Clearwater Revival (1970)
Maybe Audi has some kind of manual/auto "clutch" arrangement that has electronic feedback regulation on it. There must be some reason why it costs $1,400-$2,300 (clutch kit for my FB is about $140, ten times less - yet another reason to drive an FB). Did you check the fuse box?
-Creedance Clearwater Revival (1970)
Maybe Audi has some kind of manual/auto "clutch" arrangement that has electronic feedback regulation on it. There must be some reason why it costs $1,400-$2,300 (clutch kit for my FB is about $140, ten times less - yet another reason to drive an FB). Did you check the fuse box?
J/K You either love these old Mazda's or hate them! I have so many so no comment...
09-21-09, 08:07 PM
#7395
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Yeah, FWD turbo Audi has to be a decent bit of labor at over $100/hr.
Yeah, not a DSG Crit. Too much cash for those. And if they go bad, just write them a 5 figure check......
My vote is something internal to the tranny. 40k out of a clutch is just not right anyway. She doesn't drive it poorly.
Yeah, not a DSG Crit. Too much cash for those. And if they go bad, just write them a 5 figure check......
My vote is something internal to the tranny. 40k out of a clutch is just not right anyway. She doesn't drive it poorly.
09-21-09, 10:12 PM
#7396
im cammed!!!!!!
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09-21-09, 11:05 PM
#7397
My mistake Billy. And no, I haven't been back up to Mazcare, so I haven't seen the race car yet.
Crit. I'll call you about a pick up time. Mazcare said that they got it running with the AFM off, but you obviously can't drive it down the highway like that. So they said that it just needs to be replaced. All I plan on doing is limping it home, and parting that sonuvabitch out. I'll take first dibs on what I want, (mostly the suspension), and then I'll start selling what's left. I'll be giving Crit back everything I owe him, but after that it's fair game.
Roland/Crit- I'll bring them the AFM, and if that doesn't fix it, I'll have them check out the Air Temp Sensor.
Thanks for all the help guys. I'm much obliged to all of you
Quad
Crit. I'll call you about a pick up time. Mazcare said that they got it running with the AFM off, but you obviously can't drive it down the highway like that. So they said that it just needs to be replaced. All I plan on doing is limping it home, and parting that sonuvabitch out. I'll take first dibs on what I want, (mostly the suspension), and then I'll start selling what's left. I'll be giving Crit back everything I owe him, but after that it's fair game.
Roland/Crit- I'll bring them the AFM, and if that doesn't fix it, I'll have them check out the Air Temp Sensor.
Thanks for all the help guys. I'm much obliged to all of you
Quad
09-22-09, 07:16 AM
#7400
Quad: Why part it out? Why not sell it whole? If I was closer, I would fix it for you. It is probably something simple.
1. it is not the air intake sensor (dynamic chamber). Mine is not connected and has been that way for thousands of miles. It is really only to help with hot starts anyway.
2. for the AFM, they are super easy to test. Just pull the AFM and measure resistance between certain terminals with the door open and the door closed. Specs are in the FSM. Also, the door may be hanging up on something if that hasn't been checked. It only takes like 5 minutes to test one.
3. I assume you had them test fuel pressure while it starts. Did the pressure stay up when it died? What was the pressure? Did they jump the fuel pump to keep it running whenever the key is 'ON'?
4. really the most critical sensor for the GSL-SE is the coolant temp sensor in the waterpump. If that sensor is bad or if the connector come unplugged, the car will flood like mad and will be really hard to start. That connector and wiring is usually brittle and you may have cracked the connector or wiring when doing your injector work.
Kent
1. it is not the air intake sensor (dynamic chamber). Mine is not connected and has been that way for thousands of miles. It is really only to help with hot starts anyway.
2. for the AFM, they are super easy to test. Just pull the AFM and measure resistance between certain terminals with the door open and the door closed. Specs are in the FSM. Also, the door may be hanging up on something if that hasn't been checked. It only takes like 5 minutes to test one.
3. I assume you had them test fuel pressure while it starts. Did the pressure stay up when it died? What was the pressure? Did they jump the fuel pump to keep it running whenever the key is 'ON'?
4. really the most critical sensor for the GSL-SE is the coolant temp sensor in the waterpump. If that sensor is bad or if the connector come unplugged, the car will flood like mad and will be really hard to start. That connector and wiring is usually brittle and you may have cracked the connector or wiring when doing your injector work.
Kent