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Old 09-11-09, 09:47 AM
  #7126  
No distributor? No thanks

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No, S14 is the chassis code for the 95-98 240SX. That last red one in Ray's photos is right. The REPU doesn't have any problems and is on the mend, but it's running on a huge weber with no choke, so it won't start in the dead of winter. Maybe if I garage it every night... The GSL-SE runs fine and everything on the car works (granted, AC and radio aren't on the car, but my point still stands!) so there are no problems. It would just be nice to have a more modern daily that I don't have to duck in and out of.

Nothing's changing this week, or maybe this month - just looking around and thinking. Besides, I have a feeling it would take a while to find the right buyer for the GSL-SE.
Old 09-11-09, 10:06 AM
  #7127  
Waffles - hmmm good

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Originally Posted by Crit
No, S14 is the chassis code for the 95-98 240SX. That last red one in Ray's photos is right. The REPU doesn't have any problems and is on the mend, but it's running on a huge weber with no choke, so it won't start in the dead of winter. Maybe if I garage it every night... The GSL-SE runs fine and everything on the car works (granted, AC and radio aren't on the car, but my point still stands!) so there are no problems. It would just be nice to have a more modern daily that I don't have to duck in and out of.

Nothing's changing this week, or maybe this month - just looking around and thinking. Besides, I have a feeling it would take a while to find the right buyer for the GSL-SE.
Ah, you need a Dellorto. Mine used to start right up and run fine in 20 degree weather up in Pittsburgh.

GO STEELERS!
Old 09-11-09, 11:08 AM
  #7128  
Needs More Noise

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Originally Posted by rxtasy3
i don't know bout that bill. my 808 was daily driven from when i bought it and did the engine swap in 93 til wrecking it in 05 and like i told the insurance adjuster, it was just as dependable as anything else on the road. only thing i did to it during that time was lower ball joints and tie rod ends, and u-joints after putting in a gsl 3rd member. then there was the 74 rx4 before that, of which the engine was in the 808 and now the 7. and the 73 rx3 that started my rotary addiction. plus there's alot of issues i'll live with where others may not.

ray, if u end up needing a hand let me know and i'll try to make plans one weekend to help out. and the s14 is a popular engine option/swap of the nissan 240sx.
I hear ya, I have daily driven multiple 3s and a 2. I plan to daily the REPU when completed. The difference is cars that are good enough for that are getting harder and harder to find. The majority seen for sale now will need to completely be gone through.

Don't get me wrong.....I love to drive a good old school rotary but something has to be said for not smelling like half burnt fuel when you arrive

-billy
Old 09-11-09, 11:11 AM
  #7129  
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If Crit gets an FC, we may have to change our name from the OGTA's to the OGRE's.

Get a Nikki Crit, they'll start up when hell freezes over.

Give the Old School one more chance, paint the REPU an nice cherry red and put some plush seats with some foam dice hanging from the rear view mirror. Then get an AC and a CD player in there, maybe even a GPS. You could even get a Del Horto if you need to, if they can make it through those Carolina winters they will probably work down here.
Old 09-11-09, 11:17 AM
  #7130  
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thanx for clearing that up for me crit. i always thought it had something to do with the engine. the only way i know anything bout a specific vehicle is from owning one. and ray will u quite with the name change.
Old 09-11-09, 11:24 AM
  #7131  
Mr. RPM

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Originally Posted by ray green
Sorry to hear about the troubles with the SE's Crit and Quad and especially the REPU Crit, can't it be fixed? I must admit that about two weeks ago, when I was putting the Silver One together and wondering if I'd need another engine I thought maybe it was time to move on, sell out my FB investment.

But now I have the best FB I've ever owned - paid $1200 for it and so far, other than labor, I've spent $70 on an idler arm and $60 on a new battery. I still have the steering issue to deal with (can't get that steering box adjuster lock nut to let loose, but now that I know what to do I'll get it done) and I have a daily driver that should go 100,000 miles. That's 100,000 rotary addicted miles - I really don't think I could learn to love driving pistons again.

What's an S14 anyway? I googled it and found some BMW's on 14.net





And Datsuns on wikipedia:





Certainly that red datsun looks a little bigger than an FB but it might just be the photo. Just tell me it's not a Camero.

Michael and Roland thanks for the tips on the steering box adjustment, I think this will help if I can just get that 40 mm locking nut to loosen. I tried the chisel but it cut into the nut too far without letting loose. I'm going to soak it with PB blaster, hit it with a propane torch and see if I can find a 40 mm socket or spanner at the parts stores and go back at it this weekend. Once I get that fixed I'm going to treat myself to a new set of Kumho KR21's and a "professional" wheel alignment. That should get us into new car territory.
Ray - No problem anytime! I would buy the socket personally. I would be careful using heat on it. Make sure you turn that screw (cw) clock wise - not counter clock wise! There is a product that is the BEST we have ever come across for rusted stuff. Dad has tried everything and by far this is the best! It is call (Aerokroil). Dad put some in a paint can top and put a rusted bolt in the cap with the head down - you can see the aerokroil walking itself up the threads!
Old 09-11-09, 11:26 AM
  #7132  
Needs More Noise

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Just does not seem to look right to me ???

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Old 09-11-09, 11:37 AM
  #7133  
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counter clock wise took mine out. i guess it just depends on the box.
Old 09-11-09, 11:44 AM
  #7134  
Mr. RPM

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Originally Posted by bwaits_
Just does not seem to look right to me ???

x2
Old 09-11-09, 11:46 AM
  #7135  
Mr. RPM

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Originally Posted by rxtasy3
counter clock wise took mine out. i guess it just depends on the box.
It may be so - but common sense would tell you that (ccw) would loosen it. (cw) would tighten it! I personally have always went cw but like you said maybe it depends on the box!
Old 09-11-09, 12:16 PM
  #7136  
.............

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Dont puss out Crit! why dont you use the dakota as a daily?
Old 09-11-09, 01:20 PM
  #7137  
OGTA

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Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
Ah, you need a Dellorto. Mine used to start right up and run fine in 20 degree weather up in Pittsburgh.

GO STEELERS!
Crit, I know I am going to get a ration of shi_t from our spiritual leader for this, but here it goes.

I think Tim might be on to the solution for you. Put a Del Horto on the 13B in the REPU. Everyone I talk with about this configuration, including you, tells me it is a great setup. The REPU is bigger inside. If you do decide to get rid of the "Crit don't fit" car (SE). You can use the money for creature comforts on the REPU. Now, I don't you need the fuzzy dice and GPS, but bet you could get heat, air, and paint job for the proceeds from the SE.

One last thing, don't change the seats in the REPU. Dena told me she really like the way they smell.
Old 09-11-09, 02:10 PM
  #7138  
No distributor? No thanks

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Kevin, the Dakota was a daily for a long time, but I don't need it. It needs to get gone for the sake of insurance.
Old 09-11-09, 02:39 PM
  #7139  
Sleeper but still slow

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If you're going to go Nissan, get a 300ZX. 240s aren't great cars. The stock KA24DE engine is torquey, but weak in terms of hp and things like a limited slip differential are hard to find on them without getting special limited production versions.
Old 09-11-09, 03:16 PM
  #7140  
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Sooo, I'm having all these steering problems with my new silver 12A powered 1985 RX-7 GSL and thinking about putting in all new steering links or even converting to rack and pinion. I'm was figuring on budgeting anywhere between $200 and $800 for the project, doing my part to keep the economy scooting along.

The steering was terrible, it constantly was pulling to the left and I'd have to be correcting by constantly pulling down on the right side of the steering wheel, what a pain. And turns were always interesting, oversteering turning to the left, understeer to the right. All this after my expert front end alignment, using the power of strings. It was awful. And everything was made even worse by the small but significant amount of play in the steering box, which as you know, I've been trying to fix.

But I thought I'd try one more thing before redoing the front end and trashing my beloved 120,000 miles+ Yokohama Avid Touring tires (even though they still have another 10-20,000 miles of tread on them). Last week I stopped at discount tire, where I bought the Yoko's about 5 years ago, to get one last wheel balance. This got rid of the vibration that was noticeable at 80 mph, but the car was still pulling to the left. That evening I did the string thing one more time, but still no improvement on the pull. Then this morning it occurred to me to check to see how Discount matched up my tires on the rotation - they didn't.

Turns out the tire with the most wear, slightly more noticeable than the others, was on the front. So I switched it with one of the rears that matched the other front tire better.

Presto, now the car drives straight as an arrow and corners like an FB should. Even the steering wheel play is not a problem anymore, just a minor nuisance. (I picked up a 41 mm socket at Northern Tools on the way home today, with a little luck some steering box adjusting will make that like new too).

So now I have $200-$800 to spend and I don't need to get tires for another 3-6 months, another $300-$400 saved.

Damn I love FB's. Crit, do me a favor and sleep on the SE thing for a few weeks.

This one's for you Mike:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMCMZ70uQzs
Old 09-11-09, 05:33 PM
  #7141  
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Originally Posted by rolandgreauxii
Damn Quad - What now ? Wish you woulda got the white one!
I wish I would have gotten the white one too. Damn.

Anyways. It appears that the igniters are shot. So Crit (again to save the day) will be loaning me some to find one that works.

Hopefully no more tows to Mazcare...
Old 09-11-09, 06:30 PM
  #7142  
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nice work ray figuring it out. taking it to a shop for alignment and come out worse than before they started means going back and having them figure it out. i never rotate tires, it makes u have to buy all 4 at once when they're worn out, not that tires for these things r expensive anyway. i buy 2 at a time putting the new ones on the front and moving the fronts to the rear.
Old 09-11-09, 06:46 PM
  #7143  
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I like bad ingiters, that's something I can fix.

Here's what happened to the White One:

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She will rise another day.

And I know you dudes are not going to believe this, but the Silver One's autorepair functions are already kicking in. I just noticed she almost has her X wheels lined up and we haven't even drove 1000 miles yet. I think I'm going to like this car.

Old 09-11-09, 09:03 PM
  #7144  
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Old 09-11-09, 09:50 PM
  #7145  
Mr. RPM

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12a Rotor Housings

I am looking for a good used or new set of 12a rotor housings. If anyone has some please let me know how much and the condition.
Old 09-11-09, 10:23 PM
  #7146  
Winter Rotary

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Smelled something horrible going into Autzone this morning...turns out, Ray was there! lol
Old 09-12-09, 06:32 AM
  #7147  
Say hello to Mr.Wankel

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E30 > S14
E30= sex
S14= played out

KAs are solid though. I love the KA in my nissan truck.
Old 09-12-09, 01:21 PM
  #7148  
Lettuce be cereal
 
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^ KA isn't an option anymore, if you have a 240 you have no choice but to go SR or RB
Old 09-12-09, 01:33 PM
  #7149  
Lettuce be cereal
 
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Also check these out,
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Old 09-12-09, 02:33 PM
  #7150  
.............

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people get like $400 a pop for those


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