Old guys with 12As club meeting
12-14-08, 05:36 PM
#3326
I got some Crossroads cards Ray. Not as many as you gave me, but I will send them out to ya 
Everyone at the meet got a few of the OGTA cards. The guys who came down got first picks. Maybe we can swing a few more members to go down with us
Everyone at the meet got a few of the OGTA cards. The guys who came down got first picks. Maybe we can swing a few more members to go down with us
12-14-08, 09:25 PM
#3328
Well I have found that when dealing with a debit card you can get screwed like that. It may be that they charged you twice or it may be another issue. See when someone runs a credit card they do what is called a "authorization" then at the end of the day they batch all of their cc orders. The batch, if not done correctly, will charge the card and not release the authorization. This means you are charged twice until the authorization "drops off". This is usually 5 to 7 business days. Most people never see this with a credit card since you are billed a month later and only see the final charges.
Debit cards are different. You see all the charges immediately since they pull from your bank account. This also happens when you pay at the pump. They authorize a hefty $50 to $70 charge to turn the pump. Then bill what you actually purchased in gas. A person could be out $140 for 5 days for $70 in gas.
What I would do is call the bank first. Ask them for their fax number and ask them to look at your account. Ask them to tell you if you were charged twice or if it was an authorization. Then call the company. Tell them what you found out. Ask them to "release" the authorization or "cancel" the double charge. Tell them they will need to fax a letter to the bank to explain how they messed up. Once a fax is sent, call your bank again and ask them to waive the overdraft due to "the retailers" mix up. If they will not waive the fee you can go back to the retailer and ask for it from them.
One thing though. Be nice It will get things done quicker but be prepared for up to 5 business days before the money is back in the account.
..........and happy birthday Collin!
-billy
Debit cards are different. You see all the charges immediately since they pull from your bank account. This also happens when you pay at the pump. They authorize a hefty $50 to $70 charge to turn the pump. Then bill what you actually purchased in gas. A person could be out $140 for 5 days for $70 in gas.
What I would do is call the bank first. Ask them for their fax number and ask them to look at your account. Ask them to tell you if you were charged twice or if it was an authorization. Then call the company. Tell them what you found out. Ask them to "release" the authorization or "cancel" the double charge. Tell them they will need to fax a letter to the bank to explain how they messed up. Once a fax is sent, call your bank again and ask them to waive the overdraft due to "the retailers" mix up. If they will not waive the fee you can go back to the retailer and ask for it from them.
One thing though. Be nice
It will get things done quicker but be prepared for up to 5 business days before the money is back in the account...........and happy birthday Collin!
-billy
12-15-08, 04:17 AM
#3329
Holy moly at the long response. I sent Wachovia a secure message thing last night when I was freaking out and they replied and had a long drawn out procedure that I could go through with forms and forms and forms and what not. So first I think I'll try to contact the picture company and get them to atleast credit the $230 back to my account, so I'll atleast have some money to buy gas and food. I do plan to get the $22 overdraft fee back, but I need a positive balance asap so I can get my paycheck friday and pay my stuff, so that's not the most important thing at the moment... But if they want proof of the double-charge and they're sour about crediting it back, I'll just have to go through the long drawn out thing... Thanks for the help though- someone apparantly knows a little about that kinda stuff.
12-15-08, 12:11 PM
#3330
Sleeper but still slow
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The day I went to buy my FB, I asked to withdraw $1200 to pay for the car (the account should have had $1400 or so) and they told me I had -$4725. I later found out that they made the error when counting deposit records at the ATM. Took me about 8 hours to fix, then I finally left to go get my FB.
12-15-08, 11:02 PM
#3331
The day I went to buy my FB, I asked to withdraw $1200 to pay for the car (the account should have had $1400 or so) and they told me I had -$4725. I later found out that they made the error when counting deposit records at the ATM. Took me about 8 hours to fix, then I finally left to go get my FB.
I called the company today, and they wanted me to come down to them and get everything straight... I talked to my grandma about it and she went psyco and called them and they credited the $230 plus the overdraft fee back to my account with no questions asked . So that's finally resolved...Anyone wanna trade my S4 sport spoiler for a wrap-around black one? I found a guy in Roswell, but his isn't in that great of shape.
Midterms tomorrow!
12-16-08, 08:01 AM
#3332
Ahh ya'll are depressing I called the company today, and they wanted me to come down to them and get everything straight... I talked to my grandma about it and she went psyco and called them and they credited the $230 plus the overdraft fee back to my account with no questions asked . So that's finally resolved...
Anyone wanna trade my S4 sport spoiler for a wrap-around black one? I found a guy in Roswell, but his isn't in that great of shape.
Midterms tomorrow!
I called the company today, and they wanted me to come down to them and get everything straight... I talked to my grandma about it and she went psyco and called them and they credited the $230 plus the overdraft fee back to my account with no questions asked . So that's finally resolved...Anyone wanna trade my S4 sport spoiler for a wrap-around black one? I found a guy in Roswell, but his isn't in that great of shape.
Midterms tomorrow!
And when you bought your duckbill spoiler, who was it that told you that you'd ditch it eventually for the much sportier, more modern looking spoiler?
Me.
I got Sabines injectors back yesterday, and reinstalled them. I'm positive I put everything back together properly...but no dice. She may just be flooded but I do not see how. According to Witch Hunter, the injectors passed their leak test before and after. I'm going to try my last set of used (But to me they look alright) plugs and some de-flooding today. If that doesn't work, I'm tearing it down again. The odd thing is that when I jumpered the fuel pump (So it'd run constantly, test for leaks) I started hearing a hissing noise from under the UIM. When I removed the jumper for the fuel pump, it persisted without fail so long as the ignition was on. But I don't see any fuel leak and I don't smell any fuel whatsoever.
Stumped.
Anyways,
The cc/min @ 43.5psi turned out 456 454 456 452
So I stuck the two 456 injectors on the secondary rail...the 452 in the front primary and the 454 in the rear primary.
Last edited by Acesanugal; 12-16-08 at 08:10 AM.
12-16-08, 10:19 AM
#3333
So interestingly, I think I fubared things up.
When I sent off the injectors, I plugged the primary injector holes with paper towels and the intake with paper towels. This is all fine, don't think I dropped some into my engine.
But, I had to replace the rear iron to throttle body coolant line because a bit of nipple had broken off upon removal and I didn't want crap circulating thru my cooling system. Last night when I removed the line from the rear iron to go get a replacement hose, quite a lot of coolant came out (While it was leveling the system). Some of it got into my motor thru the paper towels plugging the injector holes.
So when I spun out the fuel in an attempt to deflood the motor, and reinstalled them. No dice. I pulled the plugs out to discover quite a lot of oil/coolant white much coating them. Okay, I thought that spinning all this junk out would fix it. So I removed all the plugs again and let the starter run for about 25 seconds.
Well I can get the motor to cough, like it used to prior to sending off the injectors...but I can't get it to fire.
Question is, what is it that has been causing this issue? It acts flooded. De-flooding helps, but it won't fire. It was doing this prior to pulling the injectors (Which is why I sent them off for cleaning, suspected leaky) and it's still doing it now. The injectors were never the culprit, I've decided, as they passed the leak test at Witch Hunter and the numbers show that they were never that bad to begin with.
I can only assume that the motor itself is at fault. The compression numbers are pretty dismal. It has no power when it does run, and it takes forever and ever to start. Could it be that maybe this motor is just done? Starting was taking longer and longer and longer until finally (Now) it just won't go.
IIRC, the compression numbers were mid sixties rear rotor, low seventies front rotor. Seafoam was used in attempt to help the numbers.
When I sent off the injectors, I plugged the primary injector holes with paper towels and the intake with paper towels. This is all fine, don't think I dropped some into my engine.
But, I had to replace the rear iron to throttle body coolant line because a bit of nipple had broken off upon removal and I didn't want crap circulating thru my cooling system. Last night when I removed the line from the rear iron to go get a replacement hose, quite a lot of coolant came out (While it was leveling the system). Some of it got into my motor thru the paper towels plugging the injector holes.
So when I spun out the fuel in an attempt to deflood the motor, and reinstalled them. No dice. I pulled the plugs out to discover quite a lot of oil/coolant white much coating them. Okay, I thought that spinning all this junk out would fix it. So I removed all the plugs again and let the starter run for about 25 seconds.
Well I can get the motor to cough, like it used to prior to sending off the injectors...but I can't get it to fire.
Question is, what is it that has been causing this issue? It acts flooded. De-flooding helps, but it won't fire. It was doing this prior to pulling the injectors (Which is why I sent them off for cleaning, suspected leaky) and it's still doing it now. The injectors were never the culprit, I've decided, as they passed the leak test at Witch Hunter and the numbers show that they were never that bad to begin with.
I can only assume that the motor itself is at fault. The compression numbers are pretty dismal. It has no power when it does run, and it takes forever and ever to start. Could it be that maybe this motor is just done? Starting was taking longer and longer and longer until finally (Now) it just won't go.
IIRC, the compression numbers were mid sixties rear rotor, low seventies front rotor. Seafoam was used in attempt to help the numbers.
12-16-08, 10:27 AM
#3334
Waffles - hmmm good
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Deflood it again and throw some oil in the plug holes and turn by hand a couple of times then put the plugs back in and try starting again. The oil may give you enough compression to get it running.
Also make sure your getting spark cause it sound like the gas is getting there if its always flooded.
Also make sure your getting spark cause it sound like the gas is getting there if its always flooded.
12-16-08, 10:31 AM
#3335
Deflood it again and throw some oil in the plug holes and turn by hand a couple of times then put the plugs back in and try starting again. The oil may give you enough compression to get it running.
Also make sure your getting spark cause it sound like the gas is getting there if its always flooded.
Also make sure your getting spark cause it sound like the gas is getting there if its always flooded.
To check for spark, how do I go abouts doing it?
-sigh-
12-16-08, 11:12 AM
#3336
Remove the spark plug wire from the leading spark plug. Stick you toung on the end of the lead while a friend spins the motor
OK.....Dont do that.
Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse block.
Remove the plug wire from the end of the leading spark plug on the front rotor.
Stick a philips screw driver into the end of the lead.
Holding on to the handle of the screw driver, hold the metal part near a metal part onthe chassis. You want it close but not touching.
Have a friend spin the motor over.
repeat for the rear rotor.
Make sure not to be touching anything metal with your body or other hand while the car is turnign over.
-billy
OK.....Dont do that.
Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse block.
Remove the plug wire from the end of the leading spark plug on the front rotor.
Stick a philips screw driver into the end of the lead.
Holding on to the handle of the screw driver, hold the metal part near a metal part onthe chassis. You want it close but not touching.
Have a friend spin the motor over.
repeat for the rear rotor.
Make sure not to be touching anything metal with your body or other hand while the car is turnign over.
-billy
12-16-08, 11:30 AM
#3338
Well she coughed into life after I let it sit for a while. Let her warm up, inspected for fuel leaks (Still can't find one or smell fuel).
If anything though, she has even less power than she did before she went down for the injectors. I'm fairly positive the motor is going, going...but not gone yet.
It doesn't really matter, I guess. In the big picture of things, I'll still have the use of the car once the motor, tranny and diff from Grace are swapped into Sabine. And then I'll be a very happy camper (Assuming it all runs and drives when all is said and done). Right now I'm frustrated with the car again and I just need to ignore it for a few days. My only comfort right now is the fact that no matter what has happened so far, Grace just keeps going and going. It's pretty pathetic that the car I want to be rid of is the only one that I've been able to depend on across eight different cars.
And with the situation I'm in with Sabine right now, it makes me wonder if I shouldn't just sell her and find another factory manual Arctic Silver car. There have been several for sale lately on craigslist. Funny how they pop up when you don't need them?
If anything though, she has even less power than she did before she went down for the injectors. I'm fairly positive the motor is going, going...but not gone yet.
It doesn't really matter, I guess. In the big picture of things, I'll still have the use of the car once the motor, tranny and diff from Grace are swapped into Sabine. And then I'll be a very happy camper (Assuming it all runs and drives when all is said and done). Right now I'm frustrated with the car again and I just need to ignore it for a few days. My only comfort right now is the fact that no matter what has happened so far, Grace just keeps going and going. It's pretty pathetic that the car I want to be rid of is the only one that I've been able to depend on across eight different cars.
And with the situation I'm in with Sabine right now, it makes me wonder if I shouldn't just sell her and find another factory manual Arctic Silver car. There have been several for sale lately on craigslist. Funny how they pop up when you don't need them?
12-16-08, 01:41 PM
#3339
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I have a random question for you guys almost completely off topic, but you guys are crazy, so may have a good answer.
I'm looking for a gas can with wheels on it. Approximately 15ish or so gallons, not extremely important. Needs to be able to travel over dirt, and would prefer to have some sort of pump with it so it doesn't need to be lifted for fueling.
My dad is getting on in age and we aren't exactly thrilled with him lugging a gas can down to the boat and then back up again, so we are looking for a better way. Only options I have really found are at Northern Tools, and they are either not good off pavement or no pump.
Just wondering if you folks had thoughts.
I'm looking for a gas can with wheels on it. Approximately 15ish or so gallons, not extremely important. Needs to be able to travel over dirt, and would prefer to have some sort of pump with it so it doesn't need to be lifted for fueling.
My dad is getting on in age and we aren't exactly thrilled with him lugging a gas can down to the boat and then back up again, so we are looking for a better way. Only options I have really found are at Northern Tools, and they are either not good off pavement or no pump.
Just wondering if you folks had thoughts.
12-16-08, 03:11 PM
#3340
OK, I got just what you need. Find yourself an inexpensive appliance dolly, you know those two wheel things you slip under one side of the appliance and pivot it up, then roll it on the wheels. One person can move around large fridges, heavy transmissions, big rocks, all kinds of things with those things, even up and down stairs.
Then strap your 15 gallon can onto the dolly real well, it should fit nicely on the dolly platform nice and low so it will have excellent balance. You can just leave the can on the dolly to make a dedicated "gas can on wheels".
This will get the gas can down to the dock, going down hill when it's full, back up the hill when it's empty. If you get the larger balloon type tires it will be fine on dirt and over bumps. Should be a piece of cake even with a full 15 gallon can.
Now how do you get the gas out of the can and into the tank?
Well that would be easy if:
1) the boat tank is lower than the dock (or the dolly with the tank can be wheeled up onto a platform that is higher than the boat tank).
2) you have a siphon hose (I make my own that I prime with an artful suck on the hose, but your dad might want to spring for one of those units you get at the boat store or auto parts stores).
See, being crazy has its advantages!
Now do I get to drive the Lotus?
Then strap your 15 gallon can onto the dolly real well, it should fit nicely on the dolly platform nice and low so it will have excellent balance. You can just leave the can on the dolly to make a dedicated "gas can on wheels".
This will get the gas can down to the dock, going down hill when it's full, back up the hill when it's empty. If you get the larger balloon type tires it will be fine on dirt and over bumps. Should be a piece of cake even with a full 15 gallon can.
Now how do you get the gas out of the can and into the tank?
Well that would be easy if:
1) the boat tank is lower than the dock (or the dolly with the tank can be wheeled up onto a platform that is higher than the boat tank).
2) you have a siphon hose (I make my own that I prime with an artful suck on the hose, but your dad might want to spring for one of those units you get at the boat store or auto parts stores).
See, being crazy has its advantages!
Now do I get to drive the Lotus?
12-16-08, 03:16 PM
#3341
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Damn Ray great minds think alike. Thats exactly what I was going to say.
If you have an opening at the bottom of the container then you won't need a siphon because the dolly will be on the dock probably above the tank level. Just stick the hose in there and turn a valve. Just make sure you can fill it from the top and always position the hose end up above the top of the tank when you store it.
If you have an opening at the bottom of the container then you won't need a siphon because the dolly will be on the dock probably above the tank level. Just stick the hose in there and turn a valve. Just make sure you can fill it from the top and always position the hose end up above the top of the tank when you store it.
12-16-08, 04:17 PM
#3343
See..you guys aren't taking an engineering approach. Crit or myself would complicate the hell out of it.
Nuclear reactor to drive the generator that charges the battery which powers the motors which drives the wheels and the pump. Control logic so that it could drive itself to the dock and a robotic arm to open the gas cap and to extend the hose. After pumping the precise amount of fuel requested, the robot would grab everyone a beer from its on-board kegerator, and then return back to its original location.
Of course, you could go with Ray's idea, but that's too easy!
Nuclear reactor to drive the generator that charges the battery which powers the motors which drives the wheels and the pump. Control logic so that it could drive itself to the dock and a robotic arm to open the gas cap and to extend the hose. After pumping the precise amount of fuel requested, the robot would grab everyone a beer from its on-board kegerator, and then return back to its original location.
Of course, you could go with Ray's idea, but that's too easy!
12-16-08, 04:24 PM
#3344
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The dolly may be the way to go, just be nice to have one simple unit.
Unfortunately, the fuel fill I believe is higher than the dock. It's a pontoon boat, floor about dead even with the dock.
Unfortunately, the fuel fill I believe is higher than the dock. It's a pontoon boat, floor about dead even with the dock.
12-16-08, 05:24 PM
#3345
No distributor? No thanks
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I've faced the same quandry, my son. The pontoon boat at my parents' lake is a pain in the *** to fill, too. Why do they always make those damn lakes downhill? It's always so hard to get it back to the house, and it's only THEN that you really have to get a beer in ya......
First one sucks, but it's cheap.
Read the reviews, but HERE it is.
And THIS.
And THIS.
First one sucks, but it's cheap.
Read the reviews, but HERE it is.
And THIS.
And THIS.
Last edited by Crit; 12-16-08 at 05:26 PM.
So anybody need anything?
12-17-08, 02:00 PM
#3349
Lettuce be cereal
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Well it looks as if the tranny swap is coming soon. The rex was acting funny the other day so i took it in to my mechanic. The tranny is shot so my options are
1. put in another autotragic and hope it doesnt fail me like the others
2. get the manny swap and keep the rex
3. sell the rex as it sits and buy a new car
4. get the swap and then sell it and get a new car
Im really thinking about getting rid of it just because i need something really reliable seeing as this is my dd and everything and im not the richest person around
1. put in another autotragic and hope it doesnt fail me like the others
2. get the manny swap and keep the rex
3. sell the rex as it sits and buy a new car
4. get the swap and then sell it and get a new car
Im really thinking about getting rid of it just because i need something really reliable seeing as this is my dd and everything and im not the richest person around
12-17-08, 02:03 PM
#3350
Well it looks as if the tranny swap is coming soon. The rex was acting funny the other day so i took it in to my mechanic. The tranny is shot so my options are
1. put in another autotragic and hope it doesnt fail me like the others
2. get the manny swap and keep the rex
3. sell the rex as it sits and buy a new car
4. get the swap and then sell it and get a new car
Im really thinking about getting rid of it just because i need something really reliable seeing as this is my dd and everything and im not the richest person around
1. put in another autotragic and hope it doesnt fail me like the others
2. get the manny swap and keep the rex
3. sell the rex as it sits and buy a new car
4. get the swap and then sell it and get a new car
Im really thinking about getting rid of it just because i need something really reliable seeing as this is my dd and everything and im not the richest person around
What a *perfect* time to do the manual swap! The car is going to be down anyway, so just do the swap. It's not hard.