Struts came in today. They're the "Stagg" struts you can get from eBay. I searched forever for reviews, but nobody seemed to have anything for the FC yet. Other random forums had discussions on them, and I probably read about 50+ threads from a whole slew of forums. It seemed like the people that were complete idiots (mostly honda guys) were the ones that complained about them. That I chalked up to morons probably slamming the car (most likely cut springs too) on struts that were meant to be OEM replacements. Their website even says that they don't recommend lowering the car more than 1.5" with them. Most of the forums for respectable vehicles like BMWs, VWs, other Mazdas... pretty much anything except Hondas gave pretty decent reviews (save for a few here and there). Typical reviews I guess, there's always someone that's sooo upset with X part because of ____ reason. Anyways, there is a warranty on them, and I don't drive my car like a fool so I figure I'll be a guinea pig and give them a shot. Less than 1/2 the price for Tokico blues too.

Attachment 688098

Got them unpacked around 6, just finished installing them about an hour ago, along with a pinion snubber and the rest of my rear subframe. Just waiting on my freshly-balanced turbo to show up, gotta bolt my y-pipe back up, and I'm also waiting on some new rear pads to arrive.

On another note, does anyone know of a decent machine shop around Jax? I drove from shop to shop today to get my turbine housing and exhaust manifold machined and NOBODY would do it! I finally found this place on 8th street called Machine Engineering or something like that. They were the 5th machine shop I had been to today.

I need to make a build thread now probably.

I still need to fine tune my EBC. The turbo does spool faster. I still don't understand why the greddy is so highly recommended, it is not a easy to user interface, and you have to dick around with it a lot. I guess I will figure it out.

Yeah, that's an interesting gadget there. You'd think it would be as easy as plugging in a single number and forgetting it, but somehow Greddy made it super complicated.

Agreed.

Anybody ?

:-) neil

Is it the greddy bspec II? I have one of those and would be happy to answer any questions. I still have the manual somewhere...

Check out pg 30. Someone else asked about him but nobody has heard anything or knows who the guy is.

Yep. Please do help him. He and I installed it Monday at my place and went for a test drive after putting what we thought were the right settings in. I pulled the manual up online and looked at it a little bit, but never got too deep in to it. I have to admit though, its settings are pretty confusing. It's almost like no matter what settings were put in, it did the same thing. It would hold off at around 10 psi (about where he wanted it) then it would creep up to around 15+ then fall off.

I have been able to dail it back down to about 10psi. It will bounce around 10 psi then hold strong. If I do a low RPM pull in a higher gear it seems to boost around 13psi and hold. It is hard to firgue out what is going on well also not trying to hit something. I could do a log with my rtek, but I dont know how to share it.

anybody gonna meet up this Saturday?

If I get everything back in time. I'm still waiting on my manifold and exhaust housing to get machined.

On a side note, USPS came today and dropped off my rear brake pads (Raybestos ceramic) and my turbo! I don't think this thing's ever looked so good :)

Attachment 687913

I hope it turns out better then the three on your tool box.

Raksj04-

When I had all set to zero % settings boost was 7-9 psi and yes it still creeps in peak torque. At 40% hit did 11-13 psi. Depending on weather creep gets worse when cold.

It seems ok. It hasn't gone over 15psi. I just thought from what everybody was talking about it would be easier to use. what do you have your start boost set at?

Start boost.should be.left alone. Think about it. The internal wastegate already has boost spike problems. Increasing the start boost will only cause it to get worse. I had left this how it came which I think was 10%.

I recommend low.boost.setting. with everything. At 0%. Will give 7-11psi. I have seen 11psi with boost controller off in low 30 degree. Weather in north fl.

Hi boost settings: SET 40% , GAIN 0%, start boost should be between 0-10% since our turbos spike(spool to fast already). I would get 11-13psi. I Never turned it up in cold weather because.. well.. it ran good:)

My mods at The.time were, stock s5 jdm. 720cc secondary injectors w FCD., factory jdm TMIC, full 3" turbo back with no cat, and a cone filter.

Don't forget to set your warnings:). And drive everyday on low or off setting for.reliability.

I have the start boost at 7.5 psi. which is the set gain I think

Well I guess the world didn't end soo yeah

Agreen

I did some reseach about my swap idea for a ford ranger. Looks like the blocks are the same. and the ranger has a Mazda manual trans that is the same, besides the 4.0 which is a HD. I an not sure about the bell housings.

raksj04-

The main one that controls boost is the "SET" Everything should be zerod and this should be adjusted first. Then you can play with Startboost "SET GAIN"

Car's all back together, drove great.

The machine shop quoted me around $100 to get the manifold and turbine housing machined. It had a pretty nasty curve on both the flange where it bolts to the manifold, and the backplate was warped too, causing an impossible exhaust leak. I called yesterday, they want over $200 now. It's an S5 manifold and housing, and I'm not sure if I'm going to go pick it up now. That's just not right.

So for now I put a modified S4 manifold and housing on. Unfortunately, the S4 manifold had the twin scroll flapper removed, so it's lacking in response. I ported the small runner on the housing to the same size as the big runner, and ported the everloving hell out of the wastegate passage. S4 wastegates scare me. After installing it, I now know that I did a better job porting the S4 wastegate than I did on the S5 unit. I also realize that the wastegate is not set at 10 psi like I thought it was, because this guy goes right up to 5 psi and HOLDS. Not one psi spike or creep. It's amazing. Now I need a boost controller, because 5 psi is just not going to satisfy me.

I also need to get an adjustable rear camber bar, because the rear wheels are canted pretty bad after dropping the car 1.5". But it handled SO much better, and road noise actually went down with the new poly bushings and new shocks. So far, I'm impressed. I just need to turn up the power now :)

Oh, and this is a HUGE achievement for me! I drove the car around for about an hour and I have not chewed the compressor up!!! So it's made it infinitely farther than the last 3 hybrid turbos I tried to build. So take that Sharingan19 :p:

You learned yourself good. At least you know how to install a greddy profec spec B II. My turbo is now hella responsive. But seems to drop off power up high.

Blow that shit. I just ordered a manual boost controller. If I feel like it later, I'll just get the easily-installed (and easily tuned) megasquirt electronic boost controller. Best part is that it's about $55... NEW.

I am leaning toward megasquirt as well

I thought Manual boost contorlers go for $100 or so

I bought CircuitSe7en's "boost block". Sounds like pretty high quality, only around $25. I searched eBay, but all they had around that price range looked like it was going to be crap quality parts.... probably stuff I could buy at a hardware store and put together myself. I'm sure you could go higher-priced, but I figured that if I'm going to end up with an electronic boost controller then why waste the money? The only reason I didn't go with the EBC is because I want to be able to install it and go, vs. having to rip out my ECU and get hot with the soldering iron. Not a big deal, but I don't want to do that right yet. I want instant gratification :)

http://circuitse7en.net/fantcube/ind...d&productId=12

Sounds good. For $25 I think it is worth the try. let us know how it works out