Wilwood brake kit brake line routing
#1
Wilwood brake kit brake line routing
I have tried unsuccessfully 3 times (PM and Email) to get some sort of answer from SakeBomb on how exactly the supplied brake lines are supposed to be routed without making contact with the shock on full lock. The included directions have very low quality black and white photos that don't show much of anything with regards to how the lines should look when installed. The AP kit has a banjo fitting and there are lots of pictures on their site of this setup but I could fine ZERO pictures of a finished willwood kit installed with pictures of the brake lines.
Can anyone who has installed the Willwood front FD brake kit care to post a picture of the brake lines and how you routed them?
It would be much appreciated.
Can anyone who has installed the Willwood front FD brake kit care to post a picture of the brake lines and how you routed them?
It would be much appreciated.
#2
I don't know if the Sakebomb Wilwood kit uses the same brake lines as the Wilwood kit, but here is my review with pics on the 14" 6 piston Wilwood kit for reference.
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...eview-1039256/
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...eview-1039256/
#3
Thanks for the response and yes I did see your thread. I've exhausted every search result on the forums so far.
The lines in the sakebomb kit are different than the ones in the willwood kit. They do have the straight fitting coming out of the caliper vs the 90 degree one in the willwood kit. The sakebomb lines also have a "retainer" on them that per the instructions in meant to attach to the factory shock bracket unlike the lines in the willwood kit that don't use the shock bracket at all. I too have the DFVs with the "hose clamp" style bracket so that gives a little bit of flexibility to the routing.
The caliper end of the provided hose in the sakebomb kit uses a 45 degreee fitting end that from what I see just brings the hose too far out/deep to where on full lock it makes some contact with the shock. My assessment is that the fitting/line need to be oriented straight up or straight down from the caliper fitting. Maybe a bit hard to describe or understand without pictures but that really would be all I need to understand/visualize how sakebomb initially designed their brake hoses to work with the willwood kit.
This isn't rocket science I know, but I figured I would just ask because the provided install notes are not clear in this regard.
The lines in the sakebomb kit are different than the ones in the willwood kit. They do have the straight fitting coming out of the caliper vs the 90 degree one in the willwood kit. The sakebomb lines also have a "retainer" on them that per the instructions in meant to attach to the factory shock bracket unlike the lines in the willwood kit that don't use the shock bracket at all. I too have the DFVs with the "hose clamp" style bracket so that gives a little bit of flexibility to the routing.
The caliper end of the provided hose in the sakebomb kit uses a 45 degreee fitting end that from what I see just brings the hose too far out/deep to where on full lock it makes some contact with the shock. My assessment is that the fitting/line need to be oriented straight up or straight down from the caliper fitting. Maybe a bit hard to describe or understand without pictures but that really would be all I need to understand/visualize how sakebomb initially designed their brake hoses to work with the willwood kit.
This isn't rocket science I know, but I figured I would just ask because the provided install notes are not clear in this regard.
#4
So this are the lines I received. Not a banjo fitting and have a ~ 45degree end with a fitting that screws into the caliper.
This matches what is on the website in a picture with the red calipers which is what I ordered.
The picture of the black option calipers have a completely different looking brake hose that utilize a 90 fitting (similar to yours TII) Which is weird because my understanding is that they are the same caliper so why 2 different hose choices?
I found another picture from Sakebomb that shows the black caliper...but with the style of lines that I received and the ones pictured with the red calipers in their website.
even weirder is that they have a picture in their thread here that pictures both the red and black calipers but with the banjo style ends like the ones they have with the AP Racing kits. Totally confused now with 3 different brake hoses pictured with the willwood kit.
I even started researching their kits for the S2ks and found a picture that clearly shows the line being run directly up from the caliper and then making a hard bent back down. This is about as close to what I was expecting to find but with everything above and no response from Sakebomb, I figured a discussion was in order for people who have the kit. But again this is for a S2K kit so I am just adding it for reference.
This matches what is on the website in a picture with the red calipers which is what I ordered.
The picture of the black option calipers have a completely different looking brake hose that utilize a 90 fitting (similar to yours TII) Which is weird because my understanding is that they are the same caliper so why 2 different hose choices?
I found another picture from Sakebomb that shows the black caliper...but with the style of lines that I received and the ones pictured with the red calipers in their website.
even weirder is that they have a picture in their thread here that pictures both the red and black calipers but with the banjo style ends like the ones they have with the AP Racing kits. Totally confused now with 3 different brake hoses pictured with the willwood kit.
I even started researching their kits for the S2ks and found a picture that clearly shows the line being run directly up from the caliper and then making a hard bent back down. This is about as close to what I was expecting to find but with everything above and no response from Sakebomb, I figured a discussion was in order for people who have the kit. But again this is for a S2K kit so I am just adding it for reference.
Last edited by TpCpLaYa; 06-14-17 at 01:00 PM.
#5
I think we need some pictures.
Just looking at the pics of the Sakebomb lines with the 45 degree bend I don't see any way they could use the shock retainer and the correct stock like line routing- I would think they would need to be nearly twice as long.
Just looking at the pics of the Sakebomb lines with the 45 degree bend I don't see any way they could use the shock retainer and the correct stock like line routing- I would think they would need to be nearly twice as long.
#6
My thoughts exactly. Like I mentioned, they do include a printed install guide but the pictures are black and white and the one picture of the brake lines in almost completely black. The AP install kit shown here:
http://www.sakebombgarage.com/conten...%20install.pdf
is a lot more legible but I can't find the Willwood specific guide anywhere on their site.
SAKEBOMB....pleeeeze help meh
http://www.sakebombgarage.com/conten...%20install.pdf
is a lot more legible but I can't find the Willwood specific guide anywhere on their site.
SAKEBOMB....pleeeeze help meh
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#9
Out of curiosity, can you confirm which color calipers you have and which style of brake hoses were sent?
#11
cool, so it seems that the lines we both received are the final option being shipped with the kits.
Here is the only picture in the guide that show any sort of orientation.
Here is the only picture in the guide that show any sort of orientation.
#15
That looks all kinds of bad to me...
What if the line were on the other side of the shock with the brake line retainer rotated 90 degrees clockwise? Does that fit any better?
I can't see how that would be correct either though as this kit should fit with stock style shocks with a fixed position brake line retainer.
What if the line were on the other side of the shock with the brake line retainer rotated 90 degrees clockwise? Does that fit any better?
I can't see how that would be correct either though as this kit should fit with stock style shocks with a fixed position brake line retainer.
#16
exactly my thoughts...hence why I initially sent a couple emails and PMs to Sakebomb so they could easily clarify. Kind sucks having my car un-driveable at the moment because of all this.
#17
So does anyone know what going on at SBG?
I have also tried to contact them over the past couple of weeks regarding an unrelated matter and have also had no response....perhaps they are on vacation?
I have also tried to contact them over the past couple of weeks regarding an unrelated matter and have also had no response....perhaps they are on vacation?
#18
not too happy about it
#19
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,580
Likes: 567
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Yeah, that is not looking kosher.
I just swung by to change the spelling of 'Willwood,' just got in contact with the SBG head honcho (who's probably in La-La land out in Kali) and he should weigh in today
I just swung by to change the spelling of 'Willwood,' just got in contact with the SBG head honcho (who's probably in La-La land out in Kali) and he should weigh in today
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TpCpLaYa (06-17-17)
#20
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 235
From: California
For the lines, the rubber grommets are not supposed to be locked on, the position should be moveable and it seems like that's what's causing issues... the position of that shock mount is supposed to move but I checked a few at the shop and they seem to have locked themselves into place on the line as they've been packaged for some time. We use a silicone based lubricant to free them when we're installing them (if they've gotten stuck) but you can also use any sort of penetrating oil etc. The fitting at the caliper should be clocked up slightly (30 degrees or so) and the line should be able to slide in the shock mount to move it into place so there is no contact with the caliper. Let me know if this doesnt fix the issue.... it should help on the caliper as well as the hard mount side.
Also please note the Ohlins brake line holders may NOT be at the right height or orientation... they are not placed perfectly from the factory and are clockable and height adjustable. That's an important piece of the puzzle as well.
I do apologize for the **** poor customer service recently... we're working very hard to resolve it but are in essence frozen with the number of messages we're getting and the time available to get to them. Rich suggested hiring an intern but since I have to train each new employee (a multi month process) each new person that's wet behind the ears actually takes away from my time to personally answer emails and pack things, so non-skilled / trained employees cant really help solve the current hangups. Anyway, sorry for the shitty communication everyone, it's temporary but we're working to fix it ASAP.
-Heath
__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
#21
Goodfalla Engine Complete
iTrader: (28)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,238
Likes: 34
From: Kennewick, Washington
Hey you guys... I just got a message from Rich. So first off my most sincere apologies to anyone trying to get ahold of us now. Alex shattered her hand in an accident a couple months ago and she was the one who basically made sure everything ran smooth here.... as far as customer contacts, order fulfilment, and putting things on my radar from 10 different forums, facebook, instagram, etc... with her out of work for the last couple months with surgery and it's been a **** show and at the same time we've had a higher number of messages and contacts than we ever have, yet are down to 1 new person who I'm trying to train. Unfortunately for the last two weeks (to make matters worse) I've been in and out of the shop dealing with some family emergencies and have had to take time off sporadically... emails are piling up, orders are piling up, and we're beyond capacity to deal with them. It's a bad problem, we're trying to slog through and triage, but we've got over 200 unanswered emails to get through.
For the lines, the rubber grommets are not supposed to be locked on, the position should be moveable and it seems like that's what's causing issues... the position of that shock mount is supposed to move but I checked a few at the shop and they seem to have locked themselves into place on the line as they've been packaged for some time. We use a silicone based lubricant to free them when we're installing them (if they've gotten stuck) but you can also use any sort of penetrating oil etc. The fitting at the caliper should be clocked up slightly (30 degrees or so) and the line should be able to slide in the shock mount to move it into place so there is no contact with the caliper. Let me know if this doesnt fix the issue.... it should help on the caliper as well as the hard mount side.
Also please note the Ohlins brake line holders may NOT be at the right height or orientation... they are not placed perfectly from the factory and are clockable and height adjustable. That's an important piece of the puzzle as well.
I do apologize for the **** poor customer service recently... we're working very hard to resolve it but are in essence frozen with the number of messages we're getting and the time available to get to them. Rich suggested hiring an intern but since I have to train each new employee (a multi month process) each new person that's wet behind the ears actually takes away from my time to personally answer emails and pack things, so non-skilled / trained employees cant really help solve the current hangups. Anyway, sorry for the shitty communication everyone, it's temporary but we're working to fix it ASAP.
-Heath
For the lines, the rubber grommets are not supposed to be locked on, the position should be moveable and it seems like that's what's causing issues... the position of that shock mount is supposed to move but I checked a few at the shop and they seem to have locked themselves into place on the line as they've been packaged for some time. We use a silicone based lubricant to free them when we're installing them (if they've gotten stuck) but you can also use any sort of penetrating oil etc. The fitting at the caliper should be clocked up slightly (30 degrees or so) and the line should be able to slide in the shock mount to move it into place so there is no contact with the caliper. Let me know if this doesnt fix the issue.... it should help on the caliper as well as the hard mount side.
Also please note the Ohlins brake line holders may NOT be at the right height or orientation... they are not placed perfectly from the factory and are clockable and height adjustable. That's an important piece of the puzzle as well.
I do apologize for the **** poor customer service recently... we're working very hard to resolve it but are in essence frozen with the number of messages we're getting and the time available to get to them. Rich suggested hiring an intern but since I have to train each new employee (a multi month process) each new person that's wet behind the ears actually takes away from my time to personally answer emails and pack things, so non-skilled / trained employees cant really help solve the current hangups. Anyway, sorry for the shitty communication everyone, it's temporary but we're working to fix it ASAP.
-Heath
However, the rubber grommet and shock mount location are inconsequential when it comes to pinching the line at full lock. it appears that a 90 degree fitting would be more ideal in this scenario. Or some sort of different arrangement to prevent a possible safety issue. This is very specifically an issue with the fitting choice that is directly attached to the caliper. It would appear that angling them up would mean earlier interference with the shock body due to the length of the fitting. unless I am completely missing something....
#22
I can take a look at mine for you tonight, but from memory i clocked the caliper fitting so it was facing ~45deg up.
I did have to slide the rubber grommets that mount to the shock, this was not simple but using lubricant as the instructions suggested it was ok. Be careful not to slide the rubber grommet out of the metal fitting, it is difficult to get it back in.
I have tracked the car several time post BBK and have not had issues with the lines yet
I did have to slide the rubber grommets that mount to the shock, this was not simple but using lubricant as the instructions suggested it was ok. Be careful not to slide the rubber grommet out of the metal fitting, it is difficult to get it back in.
I have tracked the car several time post BBK and have not had issues with the lines yet
#23
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 235
From: California
*FOLLOW UP*
We've just tested this kit with the Ohlins shocks... and there is a conflict with the shock size. When we originally designed these back in the day it was with a stock shock assembly... the lines routed quite well with them. Testing with the thicker Ohlins shock assembly at full lock we do end up with a pinch point due to the larger shock body size for the outer gold housing. I'll attach some pictures below.
A 90 degree fitting (substituted for the straight caliper fitting) fixes this issue. We now have the 90 degree fittings available free of charge to all Wilwood FD3S BBK customers, and will send them out to anyone needing additional clearance (see below) as well as cover shipping. I know it's a hassle to swap the fittings and do a partial bleed, so to all SBG Wilwood customers with a verifiable order number, we'll extend a one time wholesale discount on your next order with us.
These 90 degree fittings are in stock and ready to ship for anyone needing them. Sorry for the hassles guys, and thank you all for your patience! Please see pics below. Anyone needing fittings, please email us at info@sakebombgarage.com with your order number and mailing address please.
-Heath
PICTURES ARE SHOWN AT FULL LOCK
We've just tested this kit with the Ohlins shocks... and there is a conflict with the shock size. When we originally designed these back in the day it was with a stock shock assembly... the lines routed quite well with them. Testing with the thicker Ohlins shock assembly at full lock we do end up with a pinch point due to the larger shock body size for the outer gold housing. I'll attach some pictures below.
A 90 degree fitting (substituted for the straight caliper fitting) fixes this issue. We now have the 90 degree fittings available free of charge to all Wilwood FD3S BBK customers, and will send them out to anyone needing additional clearance (see below) as well as cover shipping. I know it's a hassle to swap the fittings and do a partial bleed, so to all SBG Wilwood customers with a verifiable order number, we'll extend a one time wholesale discount on your next order with us.
These 90 degree fittings are in stock and ready to ship for anyone needing them. Sorry for the hassles guys, and thank you all for your patience! Please see pics below. Anyone needing fittings, please email us at info@sakebombgarage.com with your order number and mailing address please.
-Heath
PICTURES ARE SHOWN AT FULL LOCK
__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
#24
Not telling you how to run your business. But assuming not everyone that has bought a kit follows this thread - I would e-mail anyone that ordered a kit and let them know what's happening. Minimize your liability ASAP.
#25
Also is this issue with Ohlins coil-overs only? Has anyone else has this issue with other makes of coil-overs? I'm running Teins but have not installed my Wilwood BBK yet because my car is still apart, but hope to do these soon.