RETed

Be careful...
Pro audio and car audio can be two different things sometimes.


-Ted

RETed

My examples if everything else was kept constant.


Agreed.
This is why I have no stereo in my FC...


-Ted

RX drift

I know there is some noise in the sub, I’m pushing like 400-500 or so to a 1,200 peak sub. I need to get a T1001.

I don’t see what wrong with a cap, it can produce up to 22v where a bat. Only produces a consistent 12v.

I don’t want 150db hell at 140bd it doesn’t matter on time exposure you have damaged your hearing. I just want some clean clear 130-135 rockford dbs. (not it the vert)

And also Rockford is not Best Buy, what you see is there drop product and bulk buy crap. I get mine straight from fosgate through my friend at a local custom audio place.

Fosgate has been around for a long time. Back in the day when you had an excuse for you small dick they were topping the shows. And still to day using superior quality materials such as their Neodymium motor structure in their component speakers(in the door). Yes I did use coaxial power series in the deck, they do pretty good for 150.00 a speaker. I didn’t use components because they are about 400.00 a pair.

Their subs may not be the best, but I’d rather make more dbs with less subs thank you. As well not too many companies use 192 oz. triple stacked motor structure(T212d2). And true not every one uses an Aluminum Cone/Dust Cap but hey that’s stupid o’ll fosgate for you.

And not to mention their power series amps oh my good such crap. They sell you a T10001 and your thinking you’ll get 1000 watts at 1 ohm and this piece of crap makes 1700-1800 watts, those lying bastards, and to top it off its thermostatic fan cooled along with their MOSFETs, what a joke. And what a waste of time for them to develop that useless 15K watt amp (one of the largest ever produced). (they are some of the best in name amps, and if you don’t believe me ask the older guys from back in the day. Producing more than what they are stamped makes it better for competing in a watt class.)

So honestly I am quite happy with my vert not every day you see a 130db(if I dynamited) vert. Not a bit of cloudy highs (good o’ll 1” inverted Neodymium motor tweeters) It seams a lot of people that bash Rockford cant usually afford them so they brag on their stuff with fallen names such as kicker and pioneer, but what ever. And as far as dbs after you reach a cretin level(cant remember #) in order to gain those 6,8,10bds, or how ever many it is, you must bobble your watts ex. Now 5,000 watts =136bd to get 142,144,146bds or which ever you need 10,000 watts.

And I do admit the smaller wires were my fault. I built the system as I went adding the system amp almost a year after the bass amp. And with each amp I bought a 8 gauge wiring kit(largest gauge that amp takes). I never intended on going this far, but you gotta love some fosgate. I don’t care what you say about them I will always use them even when I get my Lotus Elise. (no big audio for that) So if you have a prob with forsate wander on the Rockford club forums and well them that.

here you go, but you must be a member to post.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/forum/

RX drift

Thanks and the other song is Late Night Tip(i'm 90% sure) By Three Six Mafia.

NoDrySkin

So you're one of those people who blasts disgusting hip hop at 3am waking everyone up and attempting to shake the next time zone?

BLKTOPTRVL

Although I personaly don't see a need for all that, I do like the idea of the speakers installed under the folded roof - on the shelf.

My only concern would be not eliminating the spare tire space. I still use my vert a a real car.

Ashyukun

iTrader: (3)

That's been my biggest concern with trying to put a small (10"- I don't care about the dB level, I just want some low-end fill since the rest of the speakers in the car are kinda small) sub under the cover while keeping the spare tire in the same place. Apparently at one point Icemark was working on a bandpass box that fit under the cover and kept the tire location intact- but other than one post about it I've never been able to find out any info on it.

Right now I've just got a generic 10" box under there and my spare back in the trunk... I've been too lazy to get around to making a custom box to fit in the storage box wells.

But, I do have to agree with some of the previous posters- this should really be in the Audio sub-forum and not the 2nd Gen forum...

RX drift

I use to run a fosgate 8in and if you just want a little more low then they are pretty good.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Is that much sound necessary?

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

Looks like a fun setup, what size sub is that? That box is huge. I'm going to put a system in my vert, but I won't be taking up much trunk space. I want to still be able to throw the targa section in there. Your top looks like its in outstanding condition, is that a new replacement or the OEM top? Now all your car needs is a Auto to manual swap and a Turbo swap.


Ditch your loud *** Apexi N1(looks like an N1 from your sig) exhaust then, because its for similar reasons. You have a that exhaust for more power, but with that power comes more noise. He wants a more powerful sound system, clearly with a more powerful sound system comes more noise.

Oh, btw, I bet your exhaust can be heard from farther away than his system.



I'm gonna have to disagree with the uselessness of capacitors. I put a system in my truck without caps like 7 years ago. All very nice stuff, MB quarts components speakers, 2 Infinity kappa perfect 12 inch subs, an infinity digital beta amp for the subs and a sony xplode amp for the speakers, and a pheonix gold line driver, and a kenwood head unit. The system worked and sounded awesome and still does to this day. However, I noticed one day while parked in front of a friends garage door that my headlights would dim a little when the bass hit. I threw 2 1.5 farad capacitors into the setup and that has NEVER happened since.

I believe the capacitors also allowed OEM battery to last over 8 years! I could be wrong about that though. Maybe I just had an awesome battery.

Ashyukun

iTrader: (3)

That's good to know. The 10 I've got in there now does a good job of it, but it's going to take more creative box fabrication than I've likely got the time and skills for to get the volume on a custom box that lets me put the tire back where it's supposed to go- so being able to go down to an 8 is a nice option to have.

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

I, for one, like his setup. He's obviously not trying to be as fast as possible; no offense intended, it's an FC vert. You don't buy a vert to be the fastest, you buy it because it's fun. Likewise, you don't buy audio equipment to go faster, you buy it because music=fun.

That said, looks like a fun car and sound system!

ibemrzach

I didn't have the read half the posts to see what is going on here. It looks like you're relatively new to the car audio world. There are many things you can do to improve your setup, aesthetically and functionally.

The big point: why rockford? There is no reason really. If you were at best buy, you could have picked up alpine. Anyway, the quality of the components could be improved.

Also, why such a big box and big sub? You can get more sound from a better quality sub in a smaller box.

I have endless suggestions here. If you have any questions in the future, or if you'd like to bounce some ideas off me, please feel free to contact me and I'll do my best to help you.

jonesfromindia

decibels are decibels, watts are watts, ohms are ohms, and volts are volts.

just cus its in the home, doesnt change the #'s.

jonesfromindia

if by more sound you mean get a higher array of frequencies you are wrong. MOST all subs will hit what the sub needs to hit, lets say 400hz down. yes 10's will sound more punchy than 15's some times. but just because its bigger doesnt really mean it wont produce the higher freq. worse. just as long as its not like 1k hz lol. then 10 FTW.

he should have atleast gotten an 05 RE Se that would have wanged.

or since it sounds like he wants sound quality, he should have gotten an Image Dynamics 15" ID MAX. those ******* rule. i had just the normal ID 12". and ive had like 6-7 systems and i loved it the most. and ive had a fluxuation between 10's and 12's.

jonesfromindia

how do you think something that small can produce a consistant 22v??? lol. it may produce it for the first 2 seconds of sub hits, but as you know, it will keep sucking those volts, there for weakening it while you are playing. so after 5 seconds, just using #'s, it only puts out 10v cus you just bumped your **** hard.

use them if you like, its not gonna hurt, but its a waste.


i will not lie. i would take an old rockford amp over most amps produced today.

but just because you read the back of the box doesnt mean they do what they say. and there are brands that will out perform and outlast those RF with a Paper cone structure, and paper sounds better.

just try something new next system. check out -www.imagedynamicsusa.com

t00sh0rt

I saw someone ask about the songs and I don't think I saw any answers. The video that is linked here is oxycotton by lil wyte, the second video that starts with all piano is late night tip by three six mafia. What type of meter did you measure the 126db with?


EDIT:--Guess i'm a little late on the song thing

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

A capacitor can not produce more volts than it it charged to. Your capacitor will never produce more then 14.4 volts or what ever your alternator is charging it to. Unless you have the car off then it will never go above 12.2 volts.

I wish I could find the old post I saw when I was deep into car audio, but the summary was this. Even a 10 farad capacitor fully charged to 14.4 volts, will be emptied in less then half of 1 pulse to a 500 W rpm amplifier. After that 1/2 pulse the charging system is now charging the capacitor while still trying to power the amp afterwards. It takes a lot longer to charge a cap than to empty it. They are a complete waste of money and space in your car. If you REALLY want to improve your power to the amps return that cap and get another deep cell.


UPDATE: This is the site I Was looking for that explains everything about car audio and explains how a cap just acts like a SUPER small tiny mini battery. It doens't put out more power than you put in. But drains soooo fast.
http://www.bcae1.com/capacitr.htm

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

also this explains how if you double the power you gain 3 db.
http://www.bcae1.com/decibel.htm

Could some admin please move this to the car audio section, it's annoying me being on the second gen forum.

X-JaVeN-X

just to throw in what I was taught (RITOP school for mobile electronics)...you get a 3db gain if you double the power to a single driver...or if you add a second driver but split the amount of power to them..Example...doubling a single driver from 300 to 600 watts will net 3db ...or if you have keep the 300 watt amp and add a driver giving 150w to each sub will also net you a 3db gain.

Aside from that....I don't care for the spl game anymore (that died out about the time I left high school). I'd much rather have a nice component set up front staged properly and good 10" or 12" (max) in the rear for some low end extension, but to each his own I guess. I personally just have a set of alpine type r components up front (not the greatest by any means but decent), and a single 12" eD sub in the back in a small sealed enclosure. Nothing extrordinary, but it's a decent setup to just cruise around with.

t-too

not too shabby, i used to be really into car stereos until i started playing around under the hood.

My friend had a setup in his eg civic hatch that hit 153Db, it was crazy:

2 rockford 1001bd mono amps, wired at 1.5 ohms each
auxilary alternator- GM 250 amp
4 batt-caps
2 eclipse titanium 12" subs in a monster of a slot ported box

the acoustics in the hatchback were pretty good, and the ENTIRE car was dynamatted.

i remember when we were putting the dynamat in, some guy we were with was like "you know, if you ever try to make this car fast, youre gonna end up scraping all that out of there..." and we were like, "naw, its not that big of a deal to have extra weight..." 2 years later he's scraping his dynamat out because he has a fully built and sleeved b18c turbo with 350 whp @18psi

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

its so distorted how can u hear anything

jonesfromindia

i really hope you are kidding.....

if not, its the camera moron. it cant pick up jack ****. probably only good for 2k-10k. everything else probably sucks.

RX drift

Actually I live out in the country and i have had people hear me when i open it up around 3 linear miles away lol. Full racing beat exhaust.

The fosgate power series subs have a 3in excursion so the move a lot of air, and the slot port required is around .32 cubic feet. (a lot of air movement)


actually everything on the car is original, even the paint.(some light chips) I would like to do a manual swop upon restoration but i decided to keep it exactaly like it was, except the usual new oem leather seat covers, paint, top etc. (small rip in top seem of drain holes)

Well said, thank you.

And to answer others it is a 10" high excursion sub and in a big box because of high air movement(built to fosgate specs.) And as t00sh0rt said the posted vid is oxycotton by lil wyte and the other with piano is ate night tip by three six mafia. And as far as the cap i think it works well with something like rock with no extended lows just the occasional thigh hit, hell it was only $100 so worth a try.

And as far as speaker size, the max i will go with is a 12". I don't want massive dbs where you would need a 15" or 18". i actually discussed this with my father, who back in the day had a few 145+ db vehicles in the 80s), and he is agrees with me that when you get up to at 15"+ with some thing with that large of a span its not tight any more. Its just a bunch of slop, And this is why i went with a high excursion 10" so you can get the best of both.

RETed

A-weighted?
C-weighted?
Non-weighted?

Duh


-Ted