ok so. i have a stock engine (not ported) with a high flow hybrid turbo on it. it has a leaky waiste gate due to poor porting attempt to stock s5 waiste gate.
im running 550/750

with that said....


i just upgraded my fuel system by rewiring my fuel pump and installing a FPR and set it up to 42 psi.


before i did this my car was running great, but i had it as low as 4psi and i was at about 20% fuel correction. hence the upgrade.


now that i upgraded my fuel im having a hard time tuning it again. it took me a long time to get the feel right on the last tune but now i am back at square one still having complications with smooth power band. it just doesnt feel fast like it should.


i have an inovate lc-1 wide band hooked up to the VR analog.


ok so here are some recordings of 4th gear pulls WOT on the highway.

this was my first pull with a so - so tuned map.


after going back and adding fuel to this above map i then did the same pull and got this result

lower psi doesnt make much sence. i was hitting 8psi easy before i added fuel.


im not new to the rtek, i understand tuning quite well, but i dont have enough experience really fine tuning. i think its odd that i added 10% fuel but i dont really see it in my map, but instead i see my psi peak lower to 6psi instead of 8..

can any one help me figure this out?



please note that i dont have any vaccume leaks or any other problems that i know of.

 

post the log file up in a zip file. The wideband line should be quite a bit smoother than it is. Have your injectors been cleaned and flow tested?

 

Is it possible you would have it 8psi in another 700 rpm?

I don't have much first hand experience tuning with the Rtek but 13.XX is too high, and 14.xx is trending toward dangerous. You should be adding fuel.

We've merely gone from bad (14's) to not good (13's) hardly the time to being sweating peak boost numbers. Get it down to 11's (or even high 12's) and see if this problem still exists. Also, any specs on this turbo? maybe it just flows that much air? 55/750 might not be enough to feed it. 750/750 would be easy to tune and give you some more headroom, because it looks like you might need it.

 

Check your O2 sensor scaling, because something doesn't look right, it should be relatively smooth... Almost looks like its open loop, thats what my cruise looks like, Peaky, AFR's...

Post up the Log in a zip file, or just rename the PDB file to .zip and let us know your WB scaling...

At 8psi you probably want to be around 12afrs... anything above 10psi its 11afrs or so...

 

the injectors were cleaned and flow tested with in the last 5,000 miles 3 years.. if i export the file and view it why would the line be much smoother? i have not yet figured out how to export anything or work with anything on my computer. i'll read into how to do that. im using windows xp

about the turbo. im not sure exactly what it is but its high flow, i dont doubt that. 750 is plenty of fuel because i havent added more then 15% to any part of the map. since the fuel upgrade i've went from close to maxing out my % to being just about 10-15% fuel correction and with in the threashold of were i want to be.

but the a/f ratios are so jagged and seemingly unreliable


if you look carefully at the map it goes back and forth from low 11's to high 14s it bounces around ALOT
this is what i wanted to here, i was thinking it but i wanted to see if any one else was going to see it too.

my lc-1 wont connect to my lap top any more...last time i had it connected it was liniar 0-5 volts and working fine but i crushed the output wires and it wont sync to pc any more. i'll be sending it in to inovate for service and a new o2 sensor to further tune this issue.

so you really think my a/f looks weird? like something just doenst look right?
because thats how i feel. i'm adding fuel and it feels like its to rich, but the data log says its still not rich enough...

 

When you hotsync you palm to your computer using the docking station it will back up the information stored on the palm. It puts the *.PDB(log) files on your computer in a folder structure like (c:/palm/user/backup) or something along those lines. You can find your log files by searching for *.pdb files. You can then view these files using the PL viewer supplied by Pocketlogger: http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=utilities
If you haven't read: http://www.pocketlogger.com/instruct...cketlogger.pdf

To post the *.pdb files on the forum you must either zip them, or I just find it easier to rename the .pdb to .zip (the forum doesn't know, all it see's is the extension) then you can post them and we can have a looksy, but we must know your WB scaling (0v=20AFR and 5V=10AFR) something like that.

With that said, I wouldn't suggest doing 4'th gear pulls until you get this sorted. maybe start with 2nd or 3rd WOT pulls, but hey it's your car.

Yea, I would suspect that something is wrong with your sensor or scaling, if your scaling is off, it would affect the readout from the RTEK. 42psi pressure at Idle is like 10psi too high. I have mine set around 30-29 at Idle I believe.

Are you on the 550x720 setting? or 550x550?
How does it drive/sound/smell? Bucking/missing/like gas?

Good luck...

 

Wow thanks for such a qucik and easy explanation of the export prosses. That helps me a lot! I don't have to dig hah.

I'm set to 550/720

My scale is 7.35 =0v . 22.3x= 5v. I forget the22.3x number.

Its default lc-1 settings.

That's weird about 42 psi. Every one local runs that and I was told by a few actuall tuners of haltech that 42 was a good start. But, how would to high fp make these odd readings.

I may not actually have odd readings. It may just simply be noise, who knows utill I service this lc-q unit and really find out for sure. But what is important is to here what y'all have to say and see from my map and know something seems wrong



How my car reacts. Smooth out of boost almost no bucking in traffic driving. Extremely smooth entering boost and hitting 2ndart injectors. Hesitation 5th gear wot (before boost increse) I have not done any other pulls because of the lean conditions. But when I was ragging on it I felt that it should have more power like it did once before set to 4psi boost.

I found reason for boost loss. But not 100% positive since I have not attempted wot. My bov was set to loose, I forgot to tighten it after applying teflon to adjustment screw. So probable problem solved with boostdecrease

The whole car over all is smooth and amazing to drive with no hickups. Lean under boost can be fixed but adding fuel makes it seemingly feel more rich or sluggish. It smells really rich too. More so then it has before.

Still in trial and error faze I'm open to all advice. I'm sure nothing is wrong at all, probbly an issue inturpriting the a/f ratios causing poor tune?

 

Image: Fuel line pressure per FSM. Although, If it's working for you I would just leave it... definately check on that sensor and address any other problems you are having. From what I've heard on the forum: Lean Under Boost = Detonation = Broken Apex Seals = time for a new engine and turbo.

I've heard you can run Higher Fuel pressures if your injectors are maxing out or what ever, but it just seems like a bandaid to cover injectors that aren't up to the task, it also reduces flow, and puts a little more strain on the lines/pump...

Good luck though!

 

awesome thanks for the attachment

i dont necessarily think i went the bandaid rout intentionally . i re-wired my fuel pump at the same time i added a fpr. i was told to set the fpr to 42psi so i did. between the 2 changes i achieved more fuel. my volts to my fuel pump were only about 7v so i know getting 12v to it really helped. and the fpr was just an addition while i was at it.


it will be a while before i can afford either a new unit, or getting this one sent off and fixed for 80$ and a new sensor.

i'm still going to import those files and make them available. but tonight im tired since i been out in the heat all day... i'll work on getting things posted tomorrow!

 

First of all, something is probably screwy with your LC1. Did you buy it used? Is it the really old one with only 6 wires? There should be white, green, and blue wires. Make sure they all have a good chassis ground. Do you have a display? Or have you tried reading it through logworks (although i see you are having problems with that)? You need to have a known "good" value to compare the Rtek reading.

How are you measuring the fuel pressure? There's a difference between checking it at idle and checking it with no vacuum applied to the FPR (engine off or vacuum line unplugged). The way it works is this: you have a "base" fuel pressure with no vacuum or boost applied. Then when vacuum is applied it lowers the pressure, and when boost is applied it raises the pressure.

I always set my FPR with the engine off, key in the ON position and the yellow fuel pump diagnostic connector jumpered. That lets you see the "base" pressure. I usually run 40psi for most applications.

 

my lc1 is from 2007 brand new. but i got the jumper wires caught in the door once and it broke off the end plug, the one that you put the lil plug into. and because of that it wont connect with the PC. i do not have the lc1 display i go by what my lap top usto say, and what the rtek says. the lc1 broke some time last year. im thinking of just getting a whole new unit all together because after shipping, repair, and cost of new o2 sensor which i probably need, i'm looking close to 200$ any way.


i set my fpr with the car in idle. i'll go ahead and jump the yellow clip and re-set it.

 

I broke that thing too a couple years ago--I think I actually cut the plug off by accident and immediately thought FML.

Find the remnants of the thick-looking wire which connected to the plug. Slice the outer insulation, the rubber part, and I think there is some really thin shielding material underneath that. Eventually you will be down to two very small wires (22 or 24 gauge) which are a bit tricky to work with. Strip a significant amount of insulation off each wire and twist them together. You can apply a small amount of solder if you want to--do not overdo it. Just put the gun directly to the two twisted wires. They should heat up pretty quickly. Then add solder directly to the wire for a split second until the wires turn a silverish color. You don't want a big glob on there or the joint will become brittle. Then put some heat shrink or really secure electrical tape (I prefer 3M). That will solve the problem. All that plug does is close the circuit between the two wires. I called Innovate and confirmed this before I attempted the repair.

 

oh i did that. dont think i didnt try. it didnt work. it would not connect to my lap top what so ever. no matter what i tried.

 

attached is a file i renamed to ZIP. please rename it to pdb to view it


set analog 2 as follows 0volts = 7.35 5.0volts = 22.37

this is how my lc-1 inovate wide band output is set up.

 

alright i installed my new o2 sensor and got a screen capture. please let me know if this finally looks normal or do i have another issue going on. it does look different from my last o2 sensor. it looks more smooth with less ups and downs.

a/f ratio is the black line. boost is the blue. rpm is red.

this is a 2nd and 3rd gear pull with no EBC on.

 

Looks good, but a bit bumpy.

Maybe this is your prob.
See page 11:
http://www.bitzracing.com/docs/WideB...tion_Guide.pdf

From LC-1 install guide:
Power Supply Filter Capacitor
Testing has shown that the LC-1 is susceptible to power supply noise, which manifests in a “bouncing” O2 reading at the MegaSquirt input. Also, the Bosch CDI in the Porsche generates a lot of noise on the +12v power. It is therefore recommended to install a filter capacitor to filter out the noise on the +12V power to the LC-1. An electrolytic capacitor around 4700uF rated at least 25volts (safer to have 35volts) will do the job.

Funny, It doesn't mention any of that on the LC-1 UG.?/??
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf

I use a PLX sm-afr WideBand... and I installed a cap in the wire from the Sensor controller to the ecu input (egr or whatever) per the instructions.

Good luck, looks like it is rich enough... under light boosting.

 

When people use the Innovate on Subarus they use a serial connection where electrical noise isn't really a problem. Electrical noise is just part of analog signals on aftermarket devices. Improve it as best you can, but don't drive yourself nuts trying to eliminate it.

it would be better if you could post the whole log rather than having us rely on the contents of that screenshot

 

you guys... read a little more clearly . i threw away my lc-1 and i got a different wide band controler. n post numper #11 i said i wasnt going to spend the cash to repair it.

i did post the whole log before but no one replied to it. im thinking its to much work to load it and change analog 2 to my device requirements so no one took the time. hence why i only posted the stupid image. anything is upon request just ask. dont critisize me for not posting one when i have before but no one looked at it or responded

maybe i should start a new thread so its not confusing to follow my progress.

just to be clear. i replaced the lc-1 which had damaged wires. would not connect to pc. and had a very rough analog signal. i did not want to send out for repair for 80$ plus shipping. and also buy a new sensor so i junked the crappy unit for a different unit using the new botch 4.9 sensor.


the new wide band controler is connected to a relay with 12v switched power. and then the unit is connected directly to the battery. to minimize noise. i may look into installing that filter. but as for now the actual wide band display guage is pretty accurate where as the analog signal seems slightly noisy or so i would assume. unless the units' guage is set to filter out its own noise. i have nof ucking idea. under boost the guage reads a solid 12.5 under 5psi (have not set up my ebc yet ) but the datalog shows slight veriation to the actual 12.5 the guage says..

does any one understand what i am trying to say? i may not be the best at explaning. but i am trying. this is a bit complex and i am not sure if i am translating it from my mind correctly

 

what wideband are you using now?

 

glow shift.i love their products and swear by them. ive had a friend that uses this wide band unit too and loves it. great little device. it uses the 4.9 botch sensor.

the power source is coming directly from the battery threw a switched relay. the ground is grounded to the chassy near the transmission. the noise is obviously much less if any at all.

 

You'll probably get more noise doing it the way you have it. You should tap power and ground right from the ECU. The ECU has a ton of filtering and you can benefit from it by connecting close to the ECU connector. (and don't use those horrible vampire taps) Hooking it up right to the battery, and worse yet, connecting the ground to the chassis where there is no guarantee that the electrical path back to the battery is good and corrosion free, will subject it to all kinds of noise.

Also, you always want the ground of the wideband to be as close to the ECU's ground as possible.