For S6 motors, would you rather use 3 piece or 2 piece apex seals for running about 450HP? Will also get about 5k a year(If i'm lucky) so does one provide better compression over the other?

 

yes.........i thnk.. any body else.....

 

Mazda discontinued 3 piece seals. You can't even get them anymore. And that's for a reason. They don't last as long as 2 piece. the only benifit from piece seals is that they start faster. So it's not thet they build more compression it's just that they get it about one revolution faster.

 

whats the fuel pressure of a carter gerotor? i went to advance auto for a new pump and just said carter, i got this instead of the rotary vane one, need it for holley 600

 

s6 im aassuming its a rx8 motor.... right?

 

should be 6 psi, perfect for a holley////

 

If I were to make my own heat sheild for my header, what would be the best material to use (i.e. what grade aluminum)? Should I coat either side of it with anything? Would using something like Plasti-coat on the top side of it help reduce heat getting nearer my intake or would the Plasti-coat melt off?

Any other suggestions?

 

make it out of stainless steel, thats the best heat barrier.. heat will go right through aluminum.... no good

 

I completely forgot about SS. Duh! Heh. Thanks, man.

 

S4/S5 = FC

S6 = FD

Vince

 

- 1993 rx7 seq twins -
I have a problem with the secondary boost after installing mazda reman. The secondary boost is limited to 8psi where I should have 12psi. And also upon secondary boost, I have this whining sound (boost leak?) coming out of the engine bay (right behind the passanger dash). Where should I be checking? Primary is working perfectly.

 

i have a 74 rx2 and iam putting a 13b in will everything line up?

 

[QUOTE=sunkistrx2]i have a 74 rx2 and iam putting a 13b in will everything line up perfectly or will i have to do something else

 

[QUOTE=sunkistrx2]
i replied to your pm..

 

lamest post ever but a cold air intake from a reputable person for a n/a fc

 

Hey what timing do you recoment for my setup.as of now stock boost, weber 45dcoe, locked dizzy, stock plugs. s513bt

 

My question is: I'm experiencing "stumbling" at high rpm's/boost on my turbocharged 12a. I'm running a OER 45, streetported 12a, and upgraded s4 turbo. Boost levels are sitting around 10psi. Timing is at 15 deg leading and 10 deg trailing. What's exactly is happening is when I'm in a higher gear where I can maintain boost levels for more than a couple of seconds before shifting, I'm getting momentary losses of power and it's running slightly leaner every couple of seconds. I think my fuel pump isnt maintaining pressure for an extended amount of time, but I'm not sure.

What do you think?

Also, what pressure do you suggest I run at idle? My current jetting is 240 mains, 170 air corrector, and f10 e-tube. 45 pump, 50f9 idle.

Just to load you up with questions... The car often doesnt start very easily, and floods out. And I can't get it to idle below 1300, is this normal?

 

wow 240 main fuel jets seem really big, we run smaller fuel jets in streetported 13b motors! never seen or heard of a f10 e tube, are you sure?
use a smaller air jet, 150 would be better,,,
what kind of fuel pump are you running? i thing thats where your problem is..
also where is your fpr getting its boost signal from? how much boost are you running?

 

pm's sent to everybody else

 

I could be wrong on the e-tube. I know it's not f11 though, which seems to be what a lot of people use. I have some smaller jets, I think 230's. I'm gonna try to take it to the dyno once i get this problem worked out, i'll make sure I have some different jets to play with. I'm getting the boost signal from the turbo, where it should never see vacuum. Should I be getting it from somewhere different, perhaps the carb hat? I'm running 10 psi of boost. Lastly, I'm running an aeromotive pump w/ a 16 psi max. I thought I could swing it by running a 3-4 base pressure and about 10 psi of boost, but it cant maintain it's max pressure very long it seems. Also, what do you think I SHOULD run as my base pressure on the fpr?

 

the pump is your problem,,. if your running 10 pounds of boost, you need at least18-20 pounds of fuel pressure with another 10-20 pounds of fuel pressure on tap, just to be safe..... get an efi pump before you put smaller fuel jets, the oversize jets might have saved your motor from blowing up!!
also you need to get your fpr boost signal from the intake manifold, for several reasons, 1 where your fpr is hooked up now, between shifts you get boost spikes when the throrrle closes so you get fuel pressure spikes too, not good.. also the fpr also lowers fpr under vacuem, so when your not on boost it gets better gas mileage and under boost you gwill get a higher overtall fuel pressure, good for boosted rotarys!

 

Yo Robert I am thinking about running a draw through kit when I turbo my 1st gen. Can you help, I don't know what at all I need. Can you please help? Email me at Mazdadrummer@yahoo.com if that is easier for you. I just heard about this so I have a lot to learn. That means I will need a lot of explaining.

 

1. Hey, someone over on the first gen board said that weber float bowls crack at 11 psi of boost. I personally dont believe this, but I wanted to see what you said about float bowls cracking.

2. I think I'm going to run a walbro fuel pump, I think the 255lph. Any experiences with this?

3. I'm going to make a tubular exhaust manifold for the turbo. I was thinking about using 2in od mild steel tubing with a .125 wall thickness, .5in flanges, and getting it ceramic coated. Sound good?

4. Lastly, I'm running about 10psi of boost at the moment. This summer, I'm going to put in a higher pressure oil pressure regulator, and I heard that the 84-85 12a's,which I have, got the larger sized oil pump. I'm running a huge spearco intercooler, and an s4 hybrid turbo by turbonetics. With retarded timing, and good tuning, how much boost do you think I can run without hurting the motor?

 

thats bogus on the weber floats because the are solid and very strong, unless your running a brass float thats been filled on a IDA weber carb.... so you dont have to worry
the walbro 255 is a good pump, it will work good with your setup
as far as your manifold, sounds good!
as far as your boost levels, is your motor ported? if ita a ported rebuilt motor you can run up to 15 psi reliably on pump gas, 20 on 118 octane race gas... if its a stock motor, 10 psi is a safe place to be...

 

youre a lot of help robert, thanks