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Who here is running Tilton Flow Control for drag racing?

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Old 11-27-11 | 12:23 PM
  #51  
bigdv519's Avatar
IFO Forced Induction Slo
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by AnthonyNYC
Its flow control baby!!! But yes, it can be used on screen doors as well... lol
Haha...where'd you get the shock from?
Old 11-27-11 | 06:08 PM
  #52  
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From: ya mums kitchen
thats a shocking way to do it
Old 11-27-11 | 07:44 PM
  #53  
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From: Elyria, OH
I would think that screen door strut would slip alot in every gear? Unless you only need it to get off the line
Old 11-27-11 | 11:58 PM
  #54  
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Stay tuned...
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From: West Islip, Long Island NY
Originally Posted by just startn
I would think that screen door strut would slip alot in every gear? Unless you only need it to get off the line
I'm just kidding guys. I don't want to give away all of Crispeeds secrets!!!! That is some secret squirrel stuff right there!!!

Old 11-28-11 | 12:16 AM
  #55  
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HAHA, Anthony, Cris is gonna kick your *** for giving away the screen door shock trick lol....
Old 11-28-11 | 12:33 AM
  #56  
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After you leave the line you just have to reach down with your foot and kick it off it's mount!
Old 11-28-11 | 04:24 AM
  #57  
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From: West Islip, Long Island NY
Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
After you leave the line you just have to reach down with your foot and kick it off it's mount!
No lol. There's a linkage that goes from the tube to the shifter. Once you shift into 2nd, it pulls a cotter pin and you are back to shifting like normal. You reset it each pass. Can't beat it!!!
Old 12-21-11 | 03:41 AM
  #58  
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From: Miami,Fl,USA
Originally Posted by AnthonyNYC
Here is another version, under $10 and works just as great, no bleeding, adjustment with a flathead or phillips, you can't beat it
Attachment 448745
If you're going to show the man secrets then at least post all the pics and instructions so everyone can understand the setup!


Basically when the pedal is depressed, it pulls the rod out on the cylinder. When released, the pedal comes out unrestricted until the nuts on the shaft contact the dash bracket. From that point, the rate of release is controlled by the cylinder.

Adjusting the nuts on the shaft changes the point in pedal travel where the release is delayed. Turning the dash **** changes how fast the pedal is let out. There are 10 turns of adjustment on the ****. At "0" turns the pedal is delayed very little, barely noticable. At "10" turns, the pedal takes about a minute to return. For my car, the rate of release is usually set between 2-1/2 and 4 turns.

The only change made to the cylinder was adding about 4" of all thread to the end of it's shaft. Works on both mechanical and hydraulic clutch linkages
Old 12-21-11 | 02:23 PM
  #59  
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Very cool, thanks for that!

Hey, just out of curiosity what is this used to adjust, front shock rebound?

Attached Thumbnails Who here is running Tilton Flow Control for drag racing?-clutchslipper3.jpg  
Old 12-21-11 | 09:31 PM
  #60  
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this is much cheaper, and you get the same affect...


first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00

i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
Attached Thumbnails Who here is running Tilton Flow Control for drag racing?-flowvalve-001.jpg   Who here is running Tilton Flow Control for drag racing?-flowvalve-004.jpg   Who here is running Tilton Flow Control for drag racing?-flowvalve-005.jpg   Who here is running Tilton Flow Control for drag racing?-flowvalve-006.jpg  
Old 12-26-11 | 05:01 PM
  #61  
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interesting!!! so this will work just as good as the tilton valve?


Originally Posted by RXvedub
this is much cheaper, and you get the same affect...


first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00

i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
Old 06-02-14 | 12:45 PM
  #62  
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very good info here on this thread. Thanks guys. Any updates??
Old 06-02-14 | 12:58 PM
  #63  
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From: hsv al
Originally Posted by RXvedub
this is much cheaper, and you get the same affect...


first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00

i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
i did this method to add an "oil Restricter" to by BW s366 journal bearing turbo... but with a much larger jet lol.
Old 06-14-14 | 04:26 PM
  #64  
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From: Tampa
WA

Originally Posted by RXvedub
this is much cheaper, and you get the same affect...


first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00

i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve

I wonder what's the clutch slave thread pitch on a stock FD. I'm planning to start messing with this during the week. But I need to know if I should re-thread it on the slave or Is there fittings that come with a -3 on it? Anyone actually done this method before? In the picture it looks like 1/8NPT
Old 07-01-14 | 01:44 AM
  #65  
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From: Alzey, Germany
I'm just not a fan or the last method since it is on all the time. And slips it in every gear.
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