Who here is running Tilton Flow Control for drag racing?
#54
#57
No lol. There's a linkage that goes from the tube to the shifter. Once you shift into 2nd, it pulls a cotter pin and you are back to shifting like normal. You reset it each pass. Can't beat it!!!
#58
Here is another version, under $10 and works just as great, no bleeding, adjustment with a flathead or phillips, you can't beat it
Attachment 448745
Attachment 448745
Basically when the pedal is depressed, it pulls the rod out on the cylinder. When released, the pedal comes out unrestricted until the nuts on the shaft contact the dash bracket. From that point, the rate of release is controlled by the cylinder.
Adjusting the nuts on the shaft changes the point in pedal travel where the release is delayed. Turning the dash **** changes how fast the pedal is let out. There are 10 turns of adjustment on the ****. At "0" turns the pedal is delayed very little, barely noticable. At "10" turns, the pedal takes about a minute to return. For my car, the rate of release is usually set between 2-1/2 and 4 turns.
The only change made to the cylinder was adding about 4" of all thread to the end of it's shaft. Works on both mechanical and hydraulic clutch linkages
#60
this is much cheaper, and you get the same affect...
first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00
i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00
i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
#61
interesting!!! so this will work just as good as the tilton valve?
this is much cheaper, and you get the same affect...
first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00
i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00
i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
#63
this is much cheaper, and you get the same affect...
first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00
i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00
i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
#64
this is much cheaper, and you get the same affect...
first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00
i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
first..... you need the pimpmaster starter kit
second..... you need a -3 to 1/8 pipe fitting or whatever your clutch slave or master cylander thread pitch is is to a -3
third... wack off the -3 side in the lathe so it will accept the large nitrous jet(-3 flare n20 jet)
almost there.... install the size jet you want (.028 seems to work good)
and finally attach your -3 line , tighten and bleed the system..
all for less than $30.00
i do like CHRISPEED's idea though p.s. nice spot for your proportioning valve
I wonder what's the clutch slave thread pitch on a stock FD. I'm planning to start messing with this during the week. But I need to know if I should re-thread it on the slave or Is there fittings that come with a -3 on it? Anyone actually done this method before? In the picture it looks like 1/8NPT
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