Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

chassisworks battlecruiser kit, got it measure/cocked and tacked today...... gotta run it tommorow morning to be tigged

from 4 link bracket to 4 link bracket, i have 25 inches with 1.5 inch of clearance between the bracket and the frame rails



streetcar

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

oops

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

coilover setup

RoTaRyBoYz

Looks good...
is that a explorer housing?? My mustang 8.8 has 2 stupid " rabbit ears" on the top, it took me forever to cut them out..

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

It's out of a 90 5.0. Yeah, I cut those bastards off. Cutting all those brackets off are a pain in my ***.

gusfd3s

looking fun

I started a 4link project on my rx3 a couple of years ago but never completed it, it was supposed to become a street/drag car but now it is only collecting dust.




maybe i should've let a pro do the chassie setup.. it's never to late i guess

Good luck man!

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

viking, that **** looks pretty good.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Cool Project!!

You got anymore pictures? Like one from the back looking into the trunk at the crossmember?

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

trying to decide what type of locator to use? panhard bar or a diagnal bar? what do you guys think?

Busted7

Looking good Eric i went with diagnal bar!

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

Diagonal bar for sure. The panhard lets the rear end walk sideways in the chassis as the chassis seperates. I just get weirded out by that. Besides, you *should* have more room under there by using a diag vs a panhard. Just my meager opinion.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

thanks doc,

do you guys have a good way at determining how high my crossmember needs to be mounted in the car? Like, it needs to be 12 inches off the ground, and so and so?

I know my bottom 4 link bar needs to be parallel...... sooooooo

I want my car to sit low, so I need to make sure my crossmember is at the right spot and make sure the crontrol arms are at the right angle.......

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

Is this what you are wanting?

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

See my previous question SHOWOFF!!! haha, nice dude!

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

If you plan on driving the car on the street a lot i would use a wishbone.

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

well..... my chassis guy welded my crossmember directly tot he two side rocker panels. When I think back on it, It seems like they are always mounted this way. Ive never seen em mounted higher than that. The rear frame rails can be taller or shorter, and then you mount the front bar brackets to that. The higher up you mount em, the lower the car will sit. See what Im sayin? Thats JUST MY OBSERVATION. I am by no means a chassis guy.

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

here is a pic to reference what I was just posting about......

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Right, I was told that chassis shops always weld them to the rockers because rockers never change height on all cars. Not sure how true that is.

I was also told that I could weld it directly beween the frame rails.

Take a look at these 1st gen RX7 pictures. Let me know what you think since they were done completely different.

One had a square crossmember like mine, and he welding his on top of the frame rails. The other is using a roung crossmember. They are both using the trall brackets, mine are the shorter ones. Just trying to get a idea if mine should be mounted on top of the frame rails are between.

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

well, the first thing I think of is, with the factory frame rails intact, it limits how low the car will sit. Like, on that second pic, half of that upper bracket looks wasted, cuz they wont be able to get the car low enough to ever use it, cuz the frame rails are in the way. I would think you would just cut that **** out and make your own frame rails. I guess you would keep it if you wanted your **** to either A) look more stockish, or B) were required by a certain class to have certain frame rails intact or some ****. My rear end sits INSIDE the damn car, there is NO WAY I could have the car as low as I do if the rear floor were still at its origional height.

Allen should be chiming in! That bastard works at a damn chassis shop! Why is he holding out on us!?!?!?!

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, that's alot of adjustment on the top side of that bracket but like you said. Not usable. I don't want to cut out my frame, I'm hoping to run "stock style" suspension class we have locally. I figure if I can get the crossmember in the general area, I got a bunch of holes in the brackets to make adjustments right? haha

Allen works at a chassis shop? What the heck, why's he holding out?

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

What are you asking? I don't feel like a lot of reading so give me the cliff notes.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

You lazy ***.......... read!

Crossmember height/location. This is what I need to know. Mount between frame rails or on top of frame rails? Or to the rear bumper?


Let me know chassis guru.

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

Buy my BOV and i will tell you.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I would, but that's dead weight fool!

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

It's light.

Don't worry about the frame rails. Make it so that the bottom of the crossmember is flush with the bottom of the rocker (not the pinch weld) and then you can figure how to tie in the frame rails. Make sure to "plate" the area where the crosmember welds to the rocker also.