You take the 2nd gen ignitor off the coil, only use the coil, and your 3rd gen ignitor

 

Use this cord with your choice of switch . Or you can just use your horn button. You just need to use something that's going to be easily reachable.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...51562_-1_11089

Use your stock 3rd gen ignitor. Remove the 2nd gen ignitor and just use the coil. You'll need to make yourself a little bracket.

 

I didn't think you had to buy a switch or cable like that if you just hooked it up the the clutch switch?

 

I had mine ran straight to the stock clutch switch. But the problem you run into is, everytime you touch that clutch, the 2 step engages. So, everytime you stop at a stoplight etc etc, you've got your 2 step engaged.

It would work fine if you could rig it so that it doesn't engage until the clutch it all the way on the floor. But, the clutch switch go's hot as soon as pressure is applied.

 

i was wondering if switching from hks twin power to msd6al would result in any power loss? if its a few rwhp i think it would be worth it for me to change for the 2-step. thanks

 

Isn't there supposed to be a secondary switch to "arm" the clutch switch?

Thats how I setup full throttle n20. Otherwise you'd be spraying everytime you went WOT....

Just bascially a second switch to cut the circuit thats mounted on the wire coming from the clutch switch...............?

 

From my understanding....The HKS twin power is still pretty weak compared to the 6AL with a 2nd gen coil.....and a whole lot more expensive.


I had my 2 step off my datalogit hooked into the left horn button....I guess I will keep it that way.

 

I finally got an email from MSD tech support.......

"Michael,
The difference between the 6a/6a-l and SCI/SCI-L ignition box
would be it the paint scheme and labels. Either box will work on the
leading side of your ignition, even though it fires twice for every one
time the trailing side fires.

Dray

Customer Service Technician"



I hope he is right!

 

be careful

 

i have used the sci boxes as well. no difference just a marketing deal towards the ricers

 

I don't think I have much to worry about other then the box taking a **** on me and I can probably swap it out for a 6AL

 

Good news and Bad news.....First the good news.....The 2 step is unlike anything I was expecting! Holy cow....no wonder Lupe was scared! Fire!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81GPj-oOoY0



Now the bad news......I re-dynoed the car with the new ignition system and turned up the boost to 25lbs and I actually dropped 20hp! WTF Correction factor was similar, tempature was similar....something is wrong with car and I have know idea what! Help please!

 

Glad you got it working ! I told you guys, pretty scary huh

Not sure about your power loss so I'll let one of the tuning experts help you.

First of all, what all is different now than what it was before when you dynoed ?

 

Heres the deal....

Dynoed 472...then went to track and ran 11.22 @ 123

4 days later...I was at a Mazda dyno shootout and car made like 430hp and was breaking up. Replaced plugs with all new 9's all the way around and dynoed 450hp.

We decided my stock ignition system was the problem and ordered MSD SCI, 2nd gen coils for leading, and put in 10.5 plugs and MSD 2 step.....

Redynoed today.....and went from 21.5 lbs to 25lbs with new manual boost controller and dynoed 450 again!

Now Im stumped!

Was thinking maybe my turbo was going out......or
Maybe my Intercooler has oil in it from me over filling it a while back (2 months ago)
or Maybe my Greddy 2 row FMIC is too small?
or maybe the damn Rotary Gremlins decided to come out and play after I thought I got rid of them forever! LOL

 

If your turbo is being maxed out in the thin air, the rise in boost will just add heat to the engine and cause h/p drop. This is just a guess as im no tunner but at your altitude a turbo will not push what it would at a lower altitude. Good luck.

 

So wouldn't a Methanol injection kit allow my turbo to produce more power?

 

If you're spraying pre-turbo, "They" say that it changes makes your turbo act like it's larger than it really is.

I dunno man.

Move down here where the normal people are

 

Why would you be using the 4000 pill?
That cannot be for the leading side of the ignition.

 

What do you mean? I have the SCI hooked into just leading 2nd gen coil and using the relay to shut off the trailing for the 2 step.

Now I know the shop that did it found a way to shut off the trailing using only 1 relay. Is it possible the trailing coils are shutting off?

 

It is possible to wire one relay but if the ignition is set up correctly on the leading side the rpm pill is supposed to be the same. The only time it's half is when it's on the trailing side because it's in direct fire mode(stock) where each trailing coil actually only see half of the rpm hence the need for a pill that reads half.
I hope MSD is set for 4cyl mode.
Did you verify ignition timing after the install?

 

I called up Dray (The Rotary Expert) at MSD. It sounds like I left the MSD SCI-L in 6 cyl mode instead of swiching to 4 cyl. He said the Rotary ideal setting would be 5 cyl but thats not an option so 4 cyl is next best. Thats probably why my pills were way off. This is also what probably lead to it catching fire like that I guess.

Next....he is sending me a wiring diagram to hook up 2 step.....He said I shouldn't have it just to clutch like I have it now....He's probably going to say to hook to switch.

Last....is he said Im using the wrong spark plugs. I'm using B10EGV's for leading and the stock 9's for trailing. Apparently the "V" in the model number is the problem. He said those plugs have a tall electrode and is known to preignite the combustion chamber when the plug gets hot. If I go to shallow, it will blow out. He recommended going back to the stock 9's if I install my Methanol Kit and I should be fine.....This worrys me since everyone says stock 9's are only good to 400hp. What I really need is a BUR10EQ but I guess they don't make those. What plugs should I use?

 

I wouldn't ask an MSD rep for advise on spark plugs for a rotary. Take a look at what the big power rotary guys are running and copy them.

 

Everyone seems to run something different! I really hope I don't have to run some crazy platium spark plug costing $30 a piece with how fast I go through them! I will be broke!

Can I use either of these plugs sold at Advanced Auto Parts?.....

BR10EIX, stock number 6801, $6.99 has to be ordered.
B10EGC, " " 5927, $4.28 has to be ordered.

 

If you're going through plugs because of fouling, then they're too cold for the driving conditions/power level as that would indicate they aren't self cleaning.

How often do you change them and is it simply a maintenance item, or because the plugs fail?

I would think a stock 9 in the leading and 10 or 10.5 in the trailing would be fine.

 

I thought you were one of those guys.