Jumping ship
01-06-11, 09:14 AM
#176
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check list:
Engine mounts rear engine to eliminate flex
engine cold when racing
front iron freeze plugs leak engine water into oil under flex(RARE.... but i had this happen to me with plug falling out pushing water into oil)
Engine running Rich contamination of oil
Engine boost blow by into engine oil,
engine not properly seated side plates or not broken in(fuel pushes mix in oil under high boost)
Oil catch can oil hose too small not enough crank case vent to release boost and fumes.
oil too thin or running synthetic oil(not so good with alternative fuels methanol or ethanol)trust me
Eliminating or modified oil crank jets,oil loose pressure through crank with large orifice(i have used stock untouched and it has work the best for me my opinion)
running restricted oil cooler(stock)
Engine running too much advance under high boost under highest load
Engine flex during hard load excessive low ring gear(higher gear for less load to engine)
other than that,the engine will flex but some of these on the list will help eliminate some of the load to e shaft and contamination of oil.
Engine mounts rear engine to eliminate flex
engine cold when racing
front iron freeze plugs leak engine water into oil under flex(RARE.... but i had this happen to me with plug falling out pushing water into oil)
Engine running Rich contamination of oil
Engine boost blow by into engine oil,
engine not properly seated side plates or not broken in(fuel pushes mix in oil under high boost)
Oil catch can oil hose too small not enough crank case vent to release boost and fumes.
oil too thin or running synthetic oil(not so good with alternative fuels methanol or ethanol)trust me
Eliminating or modified oil crank jets,oil loose pressure through crank with large orifice(i have used stock untouched and it has work the best for me my opinion)
running restricted oil cooler(stock)
Engine running too much advance under high boost under highest load
Engine flex during hard load excessive low ring gear(higher gear for less load to engine)
other than that,the engine will flex but some of these on the list will help eliminate some of the load to e shaft and contamination of oil.
When I am at the track I should bypass the oil cooler?
This last build should have lasted a long time,every sealing seerface was at new condition
01-06-11, 04:36 PM
#177
covered in dust
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Perfection. 
...go get a red neck mobile...
Some of you people are just silly! Get over it.
01-06-11, 05:16 PM
#178
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Atrevida Toyota Starlet never used. that car was one of the fastest in P.R.
Do you balance the engine before?
01-07-11, 01:50 AM
#179
Rotary Enthusiast
Back on the days rotary race cars don't use mid plate or oil cooler. Example La
Atrevida Toyota Starlet never used. that car was one of the fastest in P.R.
Atrevida Toyota Starlet never used. that car was one of the fastest in P.R.
The cars in PR did not weigh anything even today....some of those cars tip the scales 1700-1900 lbs with driver....with that much weight and steeper gearing there is not much stress on the engine compared to a 2000+ car and running heavier street gears,makes the engine flex at the rear plate to the front plate.
Its all down to setups and tuning also power to weight ratio......
01-07-11, 02:40 PM
#181
Going fast isn't cheap. The faster you go the more it costs. Look at the new rules for the safety wear. There like 1000 bucks! Once you get down below mid 9's things add up real fast. Then when you get into the 6-7 second zone you better have won the lottery.
One thing that alot of people do that get them in trouble is skimp out on the parts. This usually ends up costing more in the long run because of failures. If they just took a little time and saved up your money and bought a really good quality parts and setup, this will help dramastically.
01-07-11, 06:16 PM
#182
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In my country said " porque el legartigo trepan palo ya se creen electricistas"
01-07-11, 09:57 PM
#183
yellow rx3
Chris,
Invest in a good fuel pump, non electric the better. Add more injector to lower the 90 duty cycle of your injector. The max duty I believe,to run an injector is 80% max to be sufficient. I not 100% sure, but I would talk to RC engineering about it. Or get a injector calculator. By doing this you will save yourself a lot of headache. Then get an experience tuner that is knowledgeable with the ecu you have.
I am almost sure you keep your tune with the right timing, with a good pump and extra injector to tailor your e85 fuel need, I most certainly sure that you wouldn't have that kind of failure... Good luck...
Invest in a good fuel pump, non electric the better. Add more injector to lower the 90 duty cycle of your injector. The max duty I believe,to run an injector is 80% max to be sufficient. I not 100% sure, but I would talk to RC engineering about it. Or get a injector calculator. By doing this you will save yourself a lot of headache. Then get an experience tuner that is knowledgeable with the ecu you have.
I am almost sure you keep your tune with the right timing, with a good pump and extra injector to tailor your e85 fuel need, I most certainly sure that you wouldn't have that kind of failure... Good luck...
01-07-11, 10:12 PM
#184
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Chris,
Invest in a good fuel pump, non electric the better. Add more injector to lower the 90 duty cycle of your injector. The max duty I believe,to run an injector is 80% max to be sufficient. I not 100% sure, but I would talk to RC engineering about it. Or get a injector calculator. By doing this you will save yourself a lot of headache. Then get an experience tuner that is knowledgeable with the ecu you have.
I am almost sure you keep your tune with the right timing, with a good pump and extra injector to tailor your e85 fuel need, I most certainly sure that you wouldn't have that kind of failure... Good luck...
Invest in a good fuel pump, non electric the better. Add more injector to lower the 90 duty cycle of your injector. The max duty I believe,to run an injector is 80% max to be sufficient. I not 100% sure, but I would talk to RC engineering about it. Or get a injector calculator. By doing this you will save yourself a lot of headache. Then get an experience tuner that is knowledgeable with the ecu you have.
I am almost sure you keep your tune with the right timing, with a good pump and extra injector to tailor your e85 fuel need, I most certainly sure that you wouldn't have that kind of failure... Good luck...
EGTs and reading your plugs after every pull or run is your best freind IMO
01-08-11, 11:12 AM
#185
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Also i try to keep rotating assembly stock all from same motor o.k 9.7.rotors are 90,91 don't use a 95 shaft same goes with gears keep it all the same also remember this is all used stuff that has x amount of mile's with x amount of wear way the pic of shaft looks like wrong bearings go to mazdatrix and see different bearings for different years i think there's 3 . And no at 400hp no mid plate needed just get turbo2 oil cooler and imo like dowels verse studs 4 more 2 at 12 and 2 at 10 with oil pan brace,also this car is not meant for a 14 mile joy ride tune-it and keep-it 1/4mile
01-09-11, 04:23 PM
#189
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01-10-11, 12:14 AM
#191
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cool 675to the fly would be about 700 to the wheel or close. i am trying to look for the same et. also but im trying to do it with a little less hp. to save the motor were figuring it to take about 485 to 500 at the wheel. good luck with it. its a nice ride!
01-10-11, 11:34 AM
#192
Correction, 675 to the flywheel would be about 580 give or take to the wheel. Also, it depends on chassis setup. He has a full tube chassis cutting 1.2x 60fts, so he doesn't need as much horsepower to run the numbers as lets say a stock chassis or IRS car.
01-10-11, 11:56 PM
#193
eight.0.eight
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thanks for the correction,sorry about the mix up had it backwards. i can only wish for 1.2x 60fts if i could id be that much closer.
01-12-11, 09:26 AM
#194
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Well I am going to put a twin turbo SBC in something it's just going to be the rx2!!I have an 85 mustang hooked up with all UPR products!he wants to trade me a a 383 hooked up with above average parts,as for a car after the 85 (smog required)mustang is gone,I was just told Monday that someone I had worked with had a 72 (no smog required)nova he will let go cheap!$500 no engine!so there it is my "MAZDA BLUES PROJECT"
01-12-11, 04:30 PM
#195
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Well I am going to put a twin turbo SBC in something it's just going to be the rx2!!I have an 85 mustang hooked up with all UPR products!he wants to trade me a a 383 hooked up with above average parts,as for a car after the 85 (smog required)mustang is gone,I was just told Monday that someone I had worked with had a 72 (no smog required)nova he will let go cheap!$500 no engine!so there it is my "MAZDA BLUES PROJECT"
01-12-11, 05:34 PM
#196
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The first thing i would do is get rid of the electric pump and replace it with a Waterman mechanical pump.Second would be to have at least 8x 1600lb injectors.
I struggled for ages with 2x Weldon 2025 pumps, on paper they should have been heaps but in real world they were overated pieces of ****.I hate electric fuel pumps!!
I'm currently running 8x 1600lb indy blues(and 2x smaller pre turbo injectors) with the waterman pump at 38psi with 100% methanol . I don't know how much power i've got but the engine is very reliable.
I also think alot of guys run too much ignition timing, at above 20 psi try running 10 deg or less.
If the combo is right and the engine is happy your motors should last. At worst you should only have small issues like the occasional stuck side seal and **** like that.
Keep your chin up dude!!
I struggled for ages with 2x Weldon 2025 pumps, on paper they should have been heaps but in real world they were overated pieces of ****.I hate electric fuel pumps!!
I'm currently running 8x 1600lb indy blues(and 2x smaller pre turbo injectors) with the waterman pump at 38psi with 100% methanol . I don't know how much power i've got but the engine is very reliable.
I also think alot of guys run too much ignition timing, at above 20 psi try running 10 deg or less.
If the combo is right and the engine is happy your motors should last. At worst you should only have small issues like the occasional stuck side seal and **** like that.
Keep your chin up dude!!
01-12-11, 09:06 PM
#197
right around 750hp they were done.. Made the switch to Mech pump and have never looked back. it is the only way to go.
01-12-11, 10:28 PM
#198
Well I am going to put a twin turbo SBC in something it's just going to be the rx2!!I have an 85 mustang hooked up with all UPR products!he wants to trade me a a 383 hooked up with above average parts,as for a car after the 85 (smog required)mustang is gone,I was just told Monday that someone I had worked with had a 72 (no smog required)nova he will let go cheap!$500 no engine!so there it is my "MAZDA BLUES PROJECT"
Let me know if you still want the bearings and regulator. The guy that is hooking me up is off this week too. I misunderstood him.
01-15-11, 05:46 PM
#199
600whp in a skinny tyre 2350lb car should gow easy high 8's and motor go for ever,just wear the thing out over a few seasons racing,these little motors are bullet proof if built and tuned proper.
doesnt matter what engine you got,shitty V8 or rotary if it aint setup rite it will still **** its pants.
doesnt matter what engine you got,shitty V8 or rotary if it aint setup rite it will still **** its pants.
