Jumping ship
#151
Chasing numbers
iTrader: (5)
Here TWEAK. I bumped this for you.. Just so ya know!
Its not that the anyone doubts what a great motor a LSX is but the problem is with guys like you that really dont know 100% of what you are talking about, coming on this thread and bashing the rotary motor.. seriously?
I think many have proved what they can do. If you do not have the knowledge to make yours work then fine.. the swap was your correct move. But to come back on here and you are basically saying:
"I didn't know enough about rotary's to keep mine from blowing up so I put in an idiot proof motor and its great!"
Chris knows somethings off on his build and everyone is stepping up to help him out...
Its not that the anyone doubts what a great motor a LSX is but the problem is with guys like you that really dont know 100% of what you are talking about, coming on this thread and bashing the rotary motor.. seriously?
I think many have proved what they can do. If you do not have the knowledge to make yours work then fine.. the swap was your correct move. But to come back on here and you are basically saying:
"I didn't know enough about rotary's to keep mine from blowing up so I put in an idiot proof motor and its great!"
Chris knows somethings off on his build and everyone is stepping up to help him out...
#152
Rotary Freak
Lol, same ol crazy amounts of hostility for no reason. No reason people can't have an intelligent conversation about the engines. Not like anybody is losing a loved one, or directly attacking someone trying to hurt them.
I do want to say though that I have seen quite a few 500 hp ls1/2s in person, a few were even NA. We all know it all depends on how much money you want to spend, you can make anything fast with enough money. To me the OP seemed like he was tired of spending time and money on continually building and blowing up rotary engines at high horsepower levels. Enough to make a thread on the forum to announce is he jumping ship. It seems only logical to try a different platform, maybe something that can be repaired cheaper, has had a lot more research and upgraded parts made for, and has a higher starting base HP.
Somehow I lost 25 lbs off the front of my car so I don't think the weight is much of an issue. With the aluminum ls1 block, and the removal of the heavy turbo, manifold, oil cooler, and intercooler, I had to move some weight to the front during my last corner balance and went with a much larger radiator.
Again, none of this is attacking anybody, but if you want to get all defensive and attack me with random rotard statements because I am threatening your souled rotary way of lives go for it. It's kinda funny and sad.
If the OP wants to fall into the rx7club rotary peer pressure so be it. Good luck with your cars and builds either way. We all just want to go fast our own way.
I do want to say though that I have seen quite a few 500 hp ls1/2s in person, a few were even NA. We all know it all depends on how much money you want to spend, you can make anything fast with enough money. To me the OP seemed like he was tired of spending time and money on continually building and blowing up rotary engines at high horsepower levels. Enough to make a thread on the forum to announce is he jumping ship. It seems only logical to try a different platform, maybe something that can be repaired cheaper, has had a lot more research and upgraded parts made for, and has a higher starting base HP.
Somehow I lost 25 lbs off the front of my car so I don't think the weight is much of an issue. With the aluminum ls1 block, and the removal of the heavy turbo, manifold, oil cooler, and intercooler, I had to move some weight to the front during my last corner balance and went with a much larger radiator.
Again, none of this is attacking anybody, but if you want to get all defensive and attack me with random rotard statements because I am threatening your souled rotary way of lives go for it. It's kinda funny and sad.
If the OP wants to fall into the rx7club rotary peer pressure so be it. Good luck with your cars and builds either way. We all just want to go fast our own way.
#153
Needs more cow bell
iTrader: (2)
As far as swaps, I am all for oddball powerplant swaps. Guy I know in Reno did a Ford CVH motor into a Fiat X-19 and turboed that, put small block chevy and ford into Volvos, and big blocks into deisel Mercedes. I put 500 Cadillac motors into S-10 Blazers, Toyota motors into MG Midgets, turbo 4G63's into Expo minivans and minitrucks and I might even put one in an FC RX7. Point is, motor swaps are fun and can be cool, but dont give me a bunch of BS about what is better or worse, just makes you look like an idiot.
#155
400 hp wiping bearings out and a bunch of other stuff DUDE IT'S NOT THE MOTOR it's something else FUEL,TUNING,IGNITION NOT SO MUCH AT 400HP, and last but not least ENGINE BUILDER
#157
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In now way would I get offended by that!!I know some problems are because of lack of understanding!but I am trying!!little run down,first engine that ran for two years,bone stock FD with super seals,200 passesand 5000 street miles.it went 9.59 @ 135 with this combo.front main wore out.first engine street port engine flex because only one side of the combustion face hit the rotor housing,second engine studed with guru 1/2 inch studs over torqued because The thrust on he rotor made some spots on the irons.third engine my fault detonation broken front iron,forth engine the rotors and counter weights are the same ones from the previous engine imlapped the irons new RA super seals really nice rotor housings but I used a different E-shaft,I think that is were my problem is,the shaft miked out good but I did not V-block the shaft to check for run-out,wiped out the mains in 40 freeway miles,the front cover o-ring as intact.with the clearance I had in the rotors there was no side interference/contact but the face of the rotor just barely touched the housing,went I post the bearing pics u will wonder how it did not destroy everything
#159
Turbo vert
iTrader: (33)
In now way would I get offended by that!!I know some problems are because of lack of understanding!but I am trying!!little run down,first engine that ran for two years,bone stock FD with super seals,200 passesand 5000 street miles.it went 9.59 @ 135 with this combo.front main wore out.first engine street port engine flex because only one side of the combustion face hit the rotor housing,second engine studed with guru 1/2 inch studs over torqued because The thrust on he rotor made some spots on the irons.third engine my fault detonation broken front iron,forth engine the rotors and counter weights are the same ones from the previous engine imlapped the irons new RA super seals really nice rotor housings but I used a different E-shaft,I think that is were my problem is,the shaft miked out good but I did not V-block the shaft to check for run-out,wiped out the mains in 40 freeway miles,the front cover o-ring as intact.with the clearance I had in the rotors there was no side interference/contact but the face of the rotor just barely touched the housing,went I post the bearing pics u will wonder how it did not destroy everything
It all boils down to know how. The problem is, there is so much good information out there but everyone trys to keep everything a secret. I dont understand it. Every rotary portricans i know so hush hush. for what? Theres a big mis understanding in all the thick minded heads, if i keep secrets ill be on top...wtf were do you get that and how do you figure? how do you know if your going in the wrong direction? you dont, and thats what leads to your situation. No one wants to share good information thats EXACTLY why the rotary is so far behind and everyone bad mouths them. Theres a reaon why theres certain types of cars/engines that stay together for long preriods of time..4G63s, honda Engines, Jz's ect ect ect
#160
Chasing numbers
iTrader: (5)
In now way would I get offended by that!!I know some problems are because of lack of understanding!but I am trying!!little run down,first engine that ran for two years,bone stock FD with super seals,200 passesand 5000 street miles.it went 9.59 @ 135 with this combo.front main wore out.first engine street port engine flex because only one side of the combustion face hit the rotor housing,second engine studed with guru 1/2 inch studs over torqued because The thrust on he rotor made some spots on the irons.third engine my fault detonation broken front iron,forth engine the rotors and counter weights are the same ones from the previous engine imlapped the irons new RA super seals really nice rotor housings but I used a different E-shaft,I think that is were my problem is,the shaft miked out good but I did not V-block the shaft to check for run-out,wiped out the mains in 40 freeway miles,the front cover o-ring as intact.with the clearance I had in the rotors there was no side interference/contact but the face of the rotor just barely touched the housing,went I post the bearing pics u will wonder how it did not destroy everything
#161
Chasing numbers
iTrader: (5)
It all boils down to know how. The problem is, there is so much good information out there but everyone trys to keep everything a secret. I dont understand it. Every rotary portricans i know so hush hush. for what? Theres a big mis understanding in all the thick minded heads, if i keep secrets ill be on top...wtf were do you get that and how do you figure? how do you know if your going in the wrong direction? you dont, and thats what leads to your situation. No one wants to share good information thats EXACTLY why the rotary is so far behind and everyone bad mouths them. Theres a reaon why theres certain types of cars/engines that stay together for long preriods of time..4G63s, honda Engines, Jz's ect ect ect
#162
7s before paint!!!
iTrader: (2)
It's not hard to figure out the "secrets". 99 times out of 100 if you show that you are not just someone looking for a handout and actually show a little loyalty to the rotary engine people will be glad to help. I have fallen down a few times but eventually i always get back up, when people see that they are more inclined to help you out. No disrespect to the OP but why would they want to come in here and let someone know all the secrets just to have them give up and go with a piston engine. People like Ito and Crispeed use to fill this and other forums with precious info but honestly most people take it for granted. The info is out there you just have to look for it. I have literally sat down and red every single post that Ito has made on Nopiston and that Chrispeed has made on here and learned a tremendous amount. I would personally like to thank all of the Veterans of the rotary engine for sharing that info and i would probably still be pulling my hair out without them.
#163
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here are some pics from my last failer,this E-shaft does not look like the same as all the other ones i have seen it has a nice machine finish,the rotors barely contacted the housings
#164
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Chris. Give us some info about the car.
What does the fuel system consist of?
What ignition setup are you running?
What Timing are you running now and did you ever verify the marks?
Do the counterweights match the rotors? Does the flywheel match?
You're running a Haltech? Send me the map and i can take a look.
What bearings and e-shaft are you running?
What does the fuel system consist of?
What ignition setup are you running?
What Timing are you running now and did you ever verify the marks?
Do the counterweights match the rotors? Does the flywheel match?
You're running a Haltech? Send me the map and i can take a look.
What bearings and e-shaft are you running?
#166
Rotary Freak
It's not hard to figure out the "secrets". 99 times out of 100 if you show that you are not just someone looking for a handout and actually show a little loyalty to the rotary engine people will be glad to help. I have fallen down a few times but eventually i always get back up, when people see that they are more inclined to help you out. No disrespect to the OP but why would they want to come in here and let someone know all the secrets just to have them give up and go with a piston engine. People like Ito and Crispeed use to fill this and other forums with precious info but honestly most people take it for granted. The info is out there you just have to look for it. I have literally sat down and red every single post that Ito has made on Nopiston and that Chrispeed has made on here and learned a tremendous amount. I would personally like to thank all of the Veterans of the rotary engine for sharing that info and i would probably still be pulling my hair out without them.
#167
pushing s##t up hill
and id be looking to change your final drive ratio, 4.56 min, are you sure that its 3.50 final drive, what revs were you going through the traps with ?
also is that timing used to make it run correctly, as maybee your crank index mark is still off , as thats a hell pound of timing to run, i have 7 deg max at full boost , maybee 8 with zero split , and our motors are very similar except i run a half bridge port , same injectors an pump , i run mercury coils with cdi ignition , same sort of power i got 400 to 450 hp btu only on 21 psi boost .
but i run sunnoco max nos gasoline, not e85, which would e85 need richer tune than me, and i think your due for cdi ignition at that boost and type of fuel
also is that timing used to make it run correctly, as maybee your crank index mark is still off , as thats a hell pound of timing to run, i have 7 deg max at full boost , maybee 8 with zero split , and our motors are very similar except i run a half bridge port , same injectors an pump , i run mercury coils with cdi ignition , same sort of power i got 400 to 450 hp btu only on 21 psi boost .
but i run sunnoco max nos gasoline, not e85, which would e85 need richer tune than me, and i think your due for cdi ignition at that boost and type of fuel
#168
Rotary Freak
find a good local engine builder to help you. I see too many issues to address and this may be past what you could handle. I would give Rene franco a call and hook up with him.
#169
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
It's not hard to figure out the "secrets". 99 times out of 100 if you show that you are not just someone looking for a handout and actually show a little loyalty to the rotary engine people will be glad to help. I have fallen down a few times but eventually i always get back up, when people see that they are more inclined to help you out. No disrespect to the OP but why would they want to come in here and let someone know all the secrets just to have them give up and go with a piston engine. People like Ito and Crispeed use to fill this and other forums with precious info but honestly most people take it for granted. The info is out there you just have to look for it. I have literally sat down and red every single post that Ito has made on Nopiston and that Chrispeed has made on here and learned a tremendous amount. I would personally like to thank all of the Veterans of the rotary engine for sharing that info and i would probably still be pulling my hair out without them.
Chris, if you want I can build your motor or help you build your motor. You sound like you know what your doing though. It's pretty hard to mess up the build so I don't think that is it. The important thing is to get all the clearance issues correct and make sure nothing is warped or bent. Other than that if you had a build issue, you would just have a low compression motor so I don't think it's the build. I would ditch those rotors and just go all fd parts.
#170
pushing s##t up hill
they are pretty high compression for that kinda boost and timing , its good your doing it an giving it a go , but no one down my end of the woods recommend that rotor and boost and timing combo , even get your tune checked out buy the guy who offered above , if you can Email it, send it to him
#171
ck with pineapple racing.
also change the rear end gears.
#172
Senior Member
[QUOTE=jccNV;10399997]Hi I'm not a expert but do you ck your e- shaft they sometimes are bent and you don't notice. there is a tool to ck the e-shaft run-out.
ck with pineapple racing.
also change the rear end gears.[/QUOT
agree... e-shaft bent this is correct need to check this also .....i don't re-use the e-shaft out of a motor if i had just crack the plates ,more than likely it's bent.....
ck with pineapple racing.
also change the rear end gears.[/QUOT
agree... e-shaft bent this is correct need to check this also .....i don't re-use the e-shaft out of a motor if i had just crack the plates ,more than likely it's bent.....
#174
Rotary Enthusiast
check list:
Engine mounts rear engine to eliminate flex
engine cold when racing
front iron freeze plugs leak engine water into oil under flex(RARE.... but i had this happen to me with plug falling out pushing water into oil)
Engine running Rich contamination of oil
Engine boost blow by into engine oil,
engine not properly seated side plates or not broken in(fuel pushes mix in oil under high boost)
Oil catch can oil hose too small not enough crank case vent to release boost and fumes.
oil too thin or running synthetic oil(not so good with alternative fuels methanol or ethanol)trust me
Eliminating or modified oil crank jets,oil loose pressure through crank with large orifice(i have used stock untouched and it has work the best for me my opinion)
running restricted oil cooler(stock)
Engine running too much advance under high boost under highest load
Engine flex during hard load excessive low ring gear(higher gear for less load to engine)
other than that,the engine will flex but some of these on the list will help eliminate some of the load to e shaft and contamination of oil.
Engine mounts rear engine to eliminate flex
engine cold when racing
front iron freeze plugs leak engine water into oil under flex(RARE.... but i had this happen to me with plug falling out pushing water into oil)
Engine running Rich contamination of oil
Engine boost blow by into engine oil,
engine not properly seated side plates or not broken in(fuel pushes mix in oil under high boost)
Oil catch can oil hose too small not enough crank case vent to release boost and fumes.
oil too thin or running synthetic oil(not so good with alternative fuels methanol or ethanol)trust me
Eliminating or modified oil crank jets,oil loose pressure through crank with large orifice(i have used stock untouched and it has work the best for me my opinion)
running restricted oil cooler(stock)
Engine running too much advance under high boost under highest load
Engine flex during hard load excessive low ring gear(higher gear for less load to engine)
other than that,the engine will flex but some of these on the list will help eliminate some of the load to e shaft and contamination of oil.