hmmn, as my car is up on jackstands I tried the cranes limiter and it didnt work, i had the trailings disconected, and the crane's stage set at 4k ( didnt want to go nuts in the garrage) power to the yellow/white wire and it built boost, but hit the haltech's limiter at 7800 i saw 19psi on the boostgauge lol....

hmmn i had to miss somthing

 

ok, so im dumb, i have 2 hi6-r's, once i hooked up limit wire for both it worked, saw abt 5psi at 4k on limiter....

 

Nice! How about some video of it on the 2-step at 9500!!!

 

Both quotes below from their respective ownersmanuals

MSD=Soft Touch Rev Control that provides a smooth and accurate rev
limit by dropping the spark to individual cylinders. The Soft Touch produces a load-free rev limit thatis within 1% of the selected rpm

Hi-6=The HI-6 utilizes a sequential firing program to equalize cylinder firing at the rev limit. When engine RPM exceeds the rev limit, firing stops. The HI-6 counts the number of cylinder firings that are skipped. Once RPM drops below the rev limit, firing is resumed when the count reaches an odd number. If the engine is held against the rev limit, RPM will stay within a narrow band. All cylinders will be fired equally in rotation. Fuel loading and plug fouling will be greatly reduced. Sequential firing also minimizes harmonics and vibrations that can stress engine and drivetrain parts.The rev limiter can be set to operate with 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engines. Accuracy is +/-30 RPM. The rev limiter is not compatible with any odd firing engines.


Since both leadings fire together, its not "odd" firing right?

so guess im gonna be the guinnea Pig? I know the msd is it easier choice in a unknown situation, but the hi-6's description of how it revlimits seems much more explanitory than the msd. also the crane has dials, so no pills to buy
I realize all ignition revlimiters are not the same..... axles should be in later this week, so looks like next sunday ill go make some passes.


I cant wait to hear this thing at some real rpms and not in my garrage lol

 

I just have to ask. should i connect the relay for the trailing coils directly on the coils or on the ECU signal for the trailing timing. want to make sure its right before i try it out

 

NO, stay away from the ecu wiring, you will want to drop power to the coils, in the fsm it just lables the wire as letter A, which is + to the coils. **section G page 17*** if you open the harness to the coils it will the the thicker wire, that goes to all 3 of the coils, that is if your running factory coils. you will have to figure out how to wire it to keep power to the leading (if you still have factory coils)

 

Just make sure when you hit the 2step it breaks signal (no power) to both trailing coils. I cut in right by the harness going to the coils.

 

ok i would have prefered to not have to put more cables under my hood. thats why i was thinking of taking it from the ECU. ill change it back tomorrow.

 

got it working

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJn9Q7K-844

 

You cant say it you got to show it!!!!!!! We want to see flames!

 

Hehe. just got it running. its running a little lean so i dont dare running it any harder. its a t60 with only 1bar of boost right now on E85.

 

Nice!

 

Finally ready to install a 2 step in my car but I am illiterate when it comes to wiring. Can one of you take a look at this diagram I have come up with and let me know if I have it correctly? I have come up with this diagram using this thread (THANKS) but my car does not have a line lock nor do I want to hook it up to the clutch switch. I was thinking I can activate the 2 step with a switch. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Simon

 

If you do not want to use the clutch, you can eliminate the top relay in your diagram all together. You would use the push-button feeding 12v with a "T" to both the 2-step box and the trailing coil relay exactly like you have it drawn.

The little loop I had drawn in my diagrams was to allow you to set the 2-step & Line lock with a push button, but hold the circuit energized with the clutch.

 

like this?



THANKS for the Help

 

Man you must have been on Art Attack, those are some nice black marker sketches!

Yes, that will work just fine. I'm not good for much, but wiring schematics, well...



Which MSD box are you using?

 

awesome, thanks for the help

 

got the two step working (THANKS), i bought the 2 step box used and it has a 3K pill in it. bought some new pills today and will hopefully get to test them this weekend at the local 1/8 mile track. here is a quick vid of my two step at 3K

 

sorry to bring this up again but i am not convinced that my 2 step is working properly. using a 6K pill i get 2lb of boost and 7800 i get 5lb of boost. this seems low compared to what sk8world and vikingwarhammer are/were getting. i run a PFC and use a TII leading coil.

thinking it was the wiring i have re-wired everything to the clutch switch just to see if i can generate more boost but to no avail. here is how i currently have it hooked up.

Relay:
85 - Clutch Switch (ground)
30 - 12V Spliced into Blk/White on Ignitor
87A - Trailing power (Red/Blk)
87 - 2 step power (red)
86 - Jumper to 30

2 step
12v to 87 on relay
gound to battery

msd 6al
white to Y/BL on Ignitor
Red to Red/Blk on Ignitor
Black to Y/BL on TII Leading Coil (-)
Orange to Red/Blk on TII Leading Coil (+)

When activated power to trailing coils is shut off. it also holds the rev as it should. the only problem is that it does not build enough boost nor does it bang/pop like a normal 2 step. any help is much appreciated.

thanks

simon

 

OK.

I made a diagram for you to follow for your setup without the line-lock, if you wire it up exactly like i've drawn you will have to push the button and the clutch together to start the 2-step, then release the button and the clutch will hold the 2-step on until you release the clutch. This way your clutch won't trip the 2-step every time you shift or sit at a light.

you need minimum 2 relays for this setup, one for the trailing coils, and one for the 2-step. And if you want to keep your clutch pedal for starting the car you will need the third relay for the clutch pedal (I can't remember if FD's have a relay there stock or its directly from the clutch switch to the starter solenoid)

The red blotches are splices. You can make the splices right at the pins (put 2 or 3 wires together crimped on to the terminal) on the relay instead of in the middle of the wire like i've drawn them.

If you don't want to keep the clutch pedal required to start the car, you can do like Sk8world did and cut the wires to the clutch pedal switch, apply 12V to one side, and wire the other side to pin 30 on the 2-step relay.

And don't forget to hold the gas pedal to the floor while the 2-step is on!

 

Trots, thanks a million. i will try it when i get home today and report back over the weekend. again, thanks for the help

simon

 

will this wiring diagram also work with the MSD 6al-2 with built in 2 step, looking to add igniter box pretty soon, and would like to know before i go out and buy it.

 

Bump for you Ed.

 

Yes, you should follow this diagram:



And route the wire from the 2-Step Relay to the 2-step trigger wire on your 6AL-2. If you have any problems feel free to post/PM me.

Taylor

P.S. Remember, you are intercepting the 12V going from the Horn Relay to the Horn itself, so make sure to use heavy enough gauge wire and a heavy duty 3-way switch for Switch 1!

 

Thanks