Couldn't find anything solid, so i made a diagram. Corrections welcome, I've been racking my brain trying to get this right.

 

So, Switch 1 is a 3-way to switch between "Street" and "Race". Switch 2 is a 2-way with up being "Burnout" and down being "Staging"

With Switch 1 in the up position, horn button works normally, and no relays can be activated with the clutch switch or horn buttons.

With Switch 1 down, and Switch 2 up, the horn button controls only the Line Lock without setting the two step for your burnout. Have to hold horn button.

With Switch 1 down and Switch 2 down, as soon as your clutch pedal is in and you push the horn button momentarily, both relays are activated, line lock is holding front tires and 2-step is set, and will stay on for as long as the clutch is pushed in.

Nice thing about this is you don't have to time the launch with the horn button, as soon as you drop the clutch, both relays disengage. Plus, with the clutch switch right at the top of the pedal travel, you can even try to take the slack out of the drivetrain before launching.

I may have messed up the power and grounds for the horn/clutch, but they can be changed to suit with another relay.

 

what kind of 2 step are you using?

 

MSD Digital 6

 

Hey man can you provide pictures of the wiring hook up from the digital 6 to the coils,or a little diagram?

 

I don't have any pictures on me, but I am wiring the MSD Digital 6 on a leading TII coil pack, between the ignitor and the coils, because it needs a rising edge signal whereas I'm pretty sure the stock FC ignitors receive a falling edge signal.

 

This writeup gives you the general idea: http://www.rotaryheads.com/modifications/FC1000/

 

use the same relay for 2 step and line lock. since for each of them needs a power to activate. make the line lock primary first. so when you push and hold a momentary switch on shifter line lock is on, when you release brakes go free. now take the wire from the switch that feeds the line lock solenoid and put a second wire from that point to a on/off switch then to 2 step. when your done doing burnout flip on/off switch on so that when you press shifter switch it sends power to line lock and 2 step. when you release it brakes go free and 2 step deactivated.

 

that's true, since the 2-step is not a load-bearing circuit.

 

Damn.. I suck so bad at wiring but all this is just what I am trying to do. I just got a 6al, 2 step, 2 adjustable rpm modules, 2 5 pin relay's. Now I just need the ***** to start installing it. The only wiring I ever do is ones with complete instructions so I know I cant screw it up. I already have a line lock wired up.
So in my head I am trying to figure out how I would stage-activate line lock-2 step while pulling slack out of driveline and then try and pump brakes for line lock also?

I have always staged the car with the e brake up so the driveline is tight, once the second light is lit I drop the e brake bring revs up and go.

The above you posted I would still stage the same but once the second light is lit , drop e brake hit the horn button pump the brake? Just seems like so much going on. Although I do like the idea of having the line lock on the line as I have rolled the lights a few times but I may just wire the 2 step in and leave the line lock for burn outs only. Maybe in the moring when these beers have worn off I will have a better picture of it all

 

I have mine as follows.. One 12v switch activates the line loc, 2step and knocks my trailing coils out through a relay. Once button is released the line loc, 2step get deactivated and the relay for the trailing coils goes back to n/c.

 

yes, this will be setup to do the same, but instead of having to let go of a button, it will be released when the clutch is dropped. When you are staging and hit the button once, everything stays on until you drop the clutch, you don't need to hold the horn button.

 

sent you a PM?

Couple more questions. Do you run the 6al in 4 cly mode? On the to rpm modules off 2 step do you run one for max rpm and the other is launch rpm?

 

Sorry, missed it. I'm running a Digital 6 with the rotary dials, one set for Rev limit, and the other for two-step. You don't need the 2-step module because it has it all built in, and no RPM pills, you just need to send a 12v signal to the trigger wire and it activates the lower RPM limit, and when you do that you need to cut out the trailing coils.

 

Sorry, I didn't read through all this properly the first time. The problem with this is that it doesn't allow the clutch to be used as the holding trigger for when you're launching, you'd have to hold the horn button and time it. The whole point of this is you don't have to time the horn button. Follow the circuit:

When you are staged, and the 2nd switch is down allowing power through, the clutch energizes the circuit backwards after you release the horn button, and only de-activates when you release the clutch.

Now, the only problem is this whole diagram relies on getting 12v from both the horn button and from pressing the clutch pedal.

 

oK. I have been thinking this one thru. I think this is by far the best setup IMO. I like the idea of not having to time the launch with the horn-other push button switch. Only thing I dont like is you will most likely activate the 2 step and line lock after you trip the first light or right before that point so you can tap the brake a hair to make rolling thru harder. Now you will need to slip the clutch a hair to finish stagging. What I worry about is if when you start to slip the clutch if you come off the switch (letting clutch out too far) you will deactivate the 2 step and line lock. I guess I could try and adjust the pedal/switch so this isnt an issue??

It would be so much easier to just wire to launch off the horn button but then also I dont want to be doing my burn out on the 2 step.

 

I am an idiot! Just read the first post again.

 

ok.. just lack the horn button and 12v from wheel part to switch 1. Please explain this to my dumbass... The horn button itself is a grounding link?. So were are you pulling 12v from by the diagram from the wheel? and were are you tapping into the horn? I was under the impression that the switch 1 (3 way) ran inline between the horn button and the horn itself but that doesnt make since unless I am pulling the 12v for farther in the wheel??

 

Help a brother out!!! I still need the above info?????

Also need to figure were to tap into to actvate relay for trailings to shut of.

Diagram below is Erik's old one but can I run pin #86 to 2 step? 85 and 30 to switched 12v and 87a to trailgs?

Have 1 week to sort it out if I am making IFO in Montgomery!

 

good info

 

Alright, I checked out the FD wiring diagram and made up a new one for you. Should do you.

You were right about the horn button, they pull the horn relay to ground, so instead, tap into the 12V feed after the horn relay to get your 12v from horn button, like shown. Just make sure switch 1 is a 3-way switch made to handle enough amperage.

 

Ok. I skipped the horn button and just wired up a push button switch that works fine. But back to the clutch switch. There are 2 switches. One on the top of the clutch and one at the bottom. Top one shows 5 volts(wtf?) then goes to zero with clutch in. Then the bottom switch shows no volts until ignition is engaged (clutch in and key turned during starting operation) then goes back to zero when key is released, unless I had a bad read. So key on (not running) I show no volts with clutch in nor out?

 

so the bottom switch only makes a closed link when the clutch is in (pin depreased). The switch is for the ignition. I am cutting the 2 wiers going into the switch so they are always in circuit. Then running a fused 12v switched wire thru the switch to 2 step relay. Only down side is the car can start without the clutch in now but thats not an issue. Hope to test tomorrow if dry out.

 

Edit: I get what you're saying now, the lower clutch switch only gets the +12V on "Start". Duh.

You could make it so that the upper clutch switch triggers a relay for the starter circuit instead. Or you'll need to mount another switch to the clutch pedal ***'y.

 

Revision 3:

Needs 1 more relay for starter solenoid, this way the clutch still needs to be used to start the car. Thanks for your help with this Mike.