grannies adjustable arms with 9"
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grannies adjustable arms with 9"
Alright guys this is the new thread. anyway as i explained in jays thread (sorry jay lol) i have a '85 rx7 with grannys 9" rear and adjustable upper and lower arms. The problem im having is both pinion angle and the rear end kicking out a little to the right. If i try to adjust for pinion angle the rear kicks out pretty bad. If i try to adjust for the car kicking out the driveshaft starts to vibrate. I do have the stock watts link setup but rewelded for the larger 9" center section like how grannys instructed. Manny i did check for motor and trans alignment and it looks a little crooked. I think i have to move the motor mounts a bit to straighten it out. Ok now grannys told me to adjust uppers first for pinion angle then the lowers starting on one side and making the other side neutral. Now the question, should i have welded the watts link after all links have been measured and adjusted for proper geometry and pininon angle? I welded the watts link first then tried adusting the arms.
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First disconnect your right link and use the left link to set your pinion angle. After you get the pinion set disconnect the rear sway bar (if equipped) and reinstall the right link. Jack the front of the car at the very center of the cross member and adjust the length of the right link only to balance the car. With it on the jacks you should be able to rock it side to side a little to see how even the load is. Once you get it exact hook everything back up and try it out. If it still pulls to the right lengthen the right link one flat at a time. Be careful because a little preload goes a long way. If it pulls to the left shorten the right rod. After you set your pinion angle and you are sure that the rear is straight in the car the only adjustment you should have to make is preload with the right bar. That is the easiest way to set it up without scales.
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First disconnect your right link and use the left link to set your pinion angle. After you get the pinion set disconnect the rear sway bar (if equipped) and reinstall the right link. Jack the front of the car at the very center of the cross member and adjust the length of the right link only to balance the car. With it on the jacks you should be able to rock it side to side a little to see how even the load is. Once you get it exact hook everything back up and try it out. If it still pulls to the right lengthen the right link one flat at a time. Be careful because a little preload goes a long way. If it pulls to the left shorten the right rod. After you set your pinion angle and you are sure that the rear is straight in the car the only adjustment you should have to make is preload with the right bar. That is the easiest way to set it up without scales.
**** with all that moving around i just busted a nut good info allen better than what i would explainit , you know us spicks cant do **** with out talking with our hands and its hard to do when ur typing
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So start with upper left and finish with upper right? Should the lowers be off until i get the uppers adjusted correctly? and when i find the right adjustment for the uppers should i just set the lowers with no preload on both sides follow the same sequence for the lowers?
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#9
7s before paint!!!
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So start with upper left and finish with upper right? Should the lowers be off until i get the uppers adjusted correctly? and when i find the right adjustment for the uppers should i just set the lowers with no preload on both sides follow the same sequence for the lowers?
Hmmmm first center the rear in the car (lower links) but the upper links will probably have to be installed to hold everything. After that your done with the lower links. Then just disconnect one end of the right upper link (with the rear suspended) and rough set your pinion angle. Then reconnect your right link in a neutral load situation. Let the car down and recheck your pinion angle, if it looks good proceed with the adjusting of the preload. Make sure when you check the preload that the sway bar is disconnected.
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7s before paint!!!
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The wheels have to be center in the wheel wells and the rear has to be perpendicular to the chassis. Your going to have to adjust the pinion angle and the wheels centered in the wells at the same time. Most of the adjustments you will have to go back and forth to get it right.
Last edited by 13B-RX3; 11-18-08 at 09:34 PM.
#16
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You know the saying, in Texas, " There's nothing but steers and queers." And the last time I checked Allen didn't have any horns comin out of his head.
Good luck Reyes, Allen looks like he is getting you dialed in. I just set me links the same length as the stock one's and centered the rearend side to side and perpendicular to the front and my car launches as straight as a Grizzlies dick. I musta got lucky.
Good luck Reyes, Allen looks like he is getting you dialed in. I just set me links the same length as the stock one's and centered the rearend side to side and perpendicular to the front and my car launches as straight as a Grizzlies dick. I musta got lucky.
#17
7s before paint!!!
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You know the saying, in Texas, " There's nothing but steers and queers." And the last time I checked Allen didn't have any horns comin out of his head.
Good luck Reyes, Allen looks like he is getting you dialed in. I just set me links the same length as the stock one's and centered the rearend side to side and perpendicular to the front and my car launches as straight as a Grizzlies dick. I musta got lucky.
Good luck Reyes, Allen looks like he is getting you dialed in. I just set me links the same length as the stock one's and centered the rearend side to side and perpendicular to the front and my car launches as straight as a Grizzlies dick. I musta got lucky.
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I would set my links to stock its just that grannies welded the upper links bracket so the upper links would have to be shortened. So in other words they welded the brackets a little more forward. They said it was so i can get the rear to bite a little more.
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