wire for making a new harness
#2
Just use Tefzel coated Mil-Spec Wire and lable it. Your Min order on that many color combos will kill you in cost.
You can also beg a company like painless or Ron Francis to sell you bulk wire, but again: $$$$
You can also beg a company like painless or Ron Francis to sell you bulk wire, but again: $$$$
#4
We used some nice fine strand plated copper SIS silicone insulated wire for a government job at my work. It could stand up to extreme heat compared to regular vinyl or EPDM rubber insulation.
You should be able to get this stuff online from a variety of places, but as mentioned it is going to be 500 or 1,000 ft spools so getting many colors will kill you.
We used to use colored wires for easy trouble shooting, but now the new UL codes specify wire color by voltage class so it is all just a couple colors.
You could use one color wire for cost effectiveness and then a wire marking system for each end of the wire for ease of identification. Wire marking systems range from heat shrink sleeves, to snap on plastic "beads", to crimped on printed metal tabs.
In addition, you can find a MUCH better way to route the wires than the stock route. It was really bad on my '87 TII as it went right next to the turbo to cross over to the engine. I ran the harness up to the firewall right out of the firewall pass through hole and along the firewall over to the engine and on to the ignition along the same route.
You should be able to get this stuff online from a variety of places, but as mentioned it is going to be 500 or 1,000 ft spools so getting many colors will kill you.
We used to use colored wires for easy trouble shooting, but now the new UL codes specify wire color by voltage class so it is all just a couple colors.
You could use one color wire for cost effectiveness and then a wire marking system for each end of the wire for ease of identification. Wire marking systems range from heat shrink sleeves, to snap on plastic "beads", to crimped on printed metal tabs.
In addition, you can find a MUCH better way to route the wires than the stock route. It was really bad on my '87 TII as it went right next to the turbo to cross over to the engine. I ran the harness up to the firewall right out of the firewall pass through hole and along the firewall over to the engine and on to the ignition along the same route.
Last edited by BLUE TII; 11-03-05 at 01:16 PM.
#6
I'm partially color blind and I still prefer color code to just lables. I've wired a few vehicles from the ground up and It's worth it 10 fold to do it right the first time.
Go to www.digikey.com great place for electronics and easy to get an idea of price.
draw everything out you will save sooo much time.
Yeah teflon and tefzel is great for high temp and abrasion resistance but its way to expensive to justify using it. Just run everything in a sleeved looms and you will not have to worry about abrasion. Temp should not be a problem, most pvc insulated wire is rated for 105C (220F) Use some common sense and you will never have an issue with that. I run everything in expandable polyester mesh sleeving (from www.mcmaster.com)
good luck
Go to www.digikey.com great place for electronics and easy to get an idea of price.
draw everything out you will save sooo much time.
Yeah teflon and tefzel is great for high temp and abrasion resistance but its way to expensive to justify using it. Just run everything in a sleeved looms and you will not have to worry about abrasion. Temp should not be a problem, most pvc insulated wire is rated for 105C (220F) Use some common sense and you will never have an issue with that. I run everything in expandable polyester mesh sleeving (from www.mcmaster.com)
good luck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
streetlegal?
New Member RX-7 Technical
13
03-17-22 03:46 PM
befarrer
Microtech
3
08-22-15 06:52 PM