My e-mail question to Dave at KDR:

I'm assuming you mean the B10EGV, B105EGV or B11EGV that was referenced in the thread.

If not let me know, because that is what I thought you were referring to.

Ken

His reply:

Hey Ken..you are correct...dave@KDR

I guess he agrees with us.

Ken

 

I PM'd him and received this back:

Send $20 to paypal address tlovergirl@yahoo.com, or send check or money order to

Andy Sosnowski
2133 Bullock Rd apt 1
Bay City, MI 48708

It should be ready to be shipped tomorrow.

Andy

I did the Paypal trick and he PM'd back that it would be shipped 2-6-03.

Ken

 

Interesting thread. I tried multiple sets of the EGVs in 9 and 10+ heat ranges and found the NGK 10.5 race plugs to be superior in overall driveability. Never put it on the dyno but driveability is so important to me I haven't gone back to the EGVs or BUR. Daily driving with these plugs has been fine so far as long as I let the car warm up before shutting down. I agree with Peter that proper tuning of AFRs especially in cruise will allow use of the colder plugs without fouling for many many miles.

 

I've been getting great driveability with the B10egv's BUT different cars and tuning like different things.

The thing about the EGV's is you can pick them up at local parts stors for $3.99 according to Forcefed so its well worth the $16 to try them out and see if you like them before spending $120 on a set of race plugs

STEPHEN

 

yesterday I installed the B10EGVs... had to grind my socket like I expected, the idle smoothed right out and the car ran pretty nicely. then I went to the dyno. I didn't have any problems but I was mostly doing a base line so there's no comparing the plugs to the stock ones I took out.

what do you all know about reading plugs?

 

Reading plugs is a touchy subject in a turbo rotary since you need to pull them directly after a run to gain meaningful data. To do this requires shutting down a hot motor/turbo so many are reluctant.

 

Please if you buy them, before installing tighten the screw on "nipples" with a set of pliers as they do come loose after a bit of use

Rice could you explain further what you mean here.

I just received my 8 B105EGV's for $40.88 plus $6.95 for shipping from www.sparkplugs.com.

I'm still waiting for the $20 socket I bought.

Now SPO said I should be gapping them at .022. Is this correct.

Hopefully when I get the socket I'll install them and be able to run 20psi at high rpm without missing like it did with the stock 9s.

Ken

 

"Please if you buy them, before installing tighten the screw on "nipples" with a set of pliers as they do come loose after a bit of use "

Rice, could you explain further what you mean here.

I just received my 8 B105EGV's for $40.88 plus $6.95 for shipping from www.sparkplugs.com.

I'm still waiting for the $20 socket I bought.

Now SPO said I should be gapping them at .022. Is this correct.

Hopefully when I get the socket I'll install them and be able to run 20psi at high rpm without missing like it did with the stock 9s.

Ken

 

I received the socket in the mail today looks real nice. Just have to wait for a warm day to swap plugs and try them out.

Ken

 

Ken, these plugs have screw on nipples at the top of the plugs. Hold the plug in a wrench and loosen the nipple with a set of pliers.......

Then hand tighten them, once they are seated tighten them a further 1/6 th of a turn, you will need to hold them hard with the pliers on the nipple and the body "hex" in the wrench. You will feel the thread deform slightly....... Once you do this the nipples will never vibrate loose for the life of the plug. Gives a better contact and stops misfires due to loose or poor connections.

 

I did your trick, THANX.

I can see after doing this I can see why they can loosen up without tightening them more than they are from the factory.

Now do I gap them at .022?

Ken

 

Ken
I swapped my plugs in about 2 weeks ago.
I was running factory spec NGKs 7s and 9s.
After putting these in I noticed the idle got a bit better. After logging at all kinds of boost (pulls from 8-14)and AFRs from 10.2 up to 12.2... I get much higher knock reading under load. i.e old readings were sub 60 new readings are closer to 170 It didn't bother me much at first, I figured something else must have changed. Once the weather clears out for a day or 2. Im swapping the old plugs back in to test my theory that the new high knock readings are dirrectly related to the new plugs.

BTW the car feels fine. I don't detect a missing.

I gapped mine to .022.... they came at .025

Do me a favor, Datalog before and after changing the plugs.

 

Nice post by dclin:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...s/overview.asp

A primer on spark plugs, I learned a lot.

Ken

 

How important is proper gapping of plugs.

Is there a big difference between .022 and .025.

Does not seem like a big deal but maybe it is.

Ken

 

Would all of this also apply to an S5 T II?, I'm running 9's all around. Seem to have problems starting and breaks up at high RPM's sometimes.

 

This is an interesting thread. I am about to replace my plugs, and am glad I checked here. The service manual has two different plugs for the leading side, and the trailing side of each chamber. The B10EGV, or B105EGV's are recommended as both, so just get four of the same?

 

The B10EGV spark plugs can be used on a daily driver bridged turbocharger 13B engine with premix on the gas?

 

You should never just start your car for 30 seconds and shut it off. It will be pig-rich during that period and it will, as you noticed, foul your plugs.

If you start it always go for a ride and get everthing up to full temp. before shutting it down. And use at least a 2 minute cool down after boosting before you shut it off.

Barry

 

WOW... thread resurrection...

 

I really like B10EGV plugs with a .022 gap

you can also get them from Sparkplugs.com for about $5 each!!!!!

STEPHEN

 

I notice the B*EGV plugs aren't resistor plugs like the OEM and NGK race ones, does that affect stereos and aftermarket ECUs? IE are they much "noisier" being a motorcycle plug?

 

???

 

i looked on there and cant find them would anybody have a link for these thanks..

 

do you have to have diffrent plugs per rotar? i'v been told not to run the same plug for the Leading spark as the trailing spack plug! like heat range 7 in the Leading spark and a 9 heat in the trailing spark?

 

depends on the ignition......

Does it have a distributer? If yes, they are all the same heat range. If it has those new fangled twin coils, its leading range should be 2 ranges hotter than trailing.