I have made a few changes to my car since the last owner, now Im wondering what spark plugs I should run before I dyno next week.

anyone that has some in site care to share based on the Mods in my sig?


Greg

 

I really like B10EGV plugs with a .022 gap

you can also get them from Sparkplugs.com for about $5 each!!!!!

STEPHEN

 

I take it these are not NGK BUR10EQP.

How do they compare because RX7.com has the BUR10EQP for $30 apiece.

 

I run NGKR6725-105, 10.5 heat range, fine wire race plug made for the rotary.

If you buy from Monarch they are $25.74/plug plus $10 for shipping of 2 boxes of four.

http://www.monarchproductsinc.com/ngk.htm

 

The NGK website doesn't show a BUR10EQP part number.

so Im guessing it's some other part number

B10EGVs huh.
SPOautos, is this what you ran for your latest tuning session? did you run them leading and trailing?

Greg

 

Weigh up the cost/life/performance relationship and you will find as I did that you cannot go past the B*EGV range.

Depending on the engine and operating conditions I will use from a 9 up to a 11 heat range, gaped as mentioned in the above post.

See how you go, I strongly recommend these NGK's

Please if you buy them, before installing tighten the screw on "nipples" with a set of pliers as they do come loose after a bit of use

 

I'm interested in this plug subject. I drove my car back 1200 miles from KDR and when I got home it ran like crap. No where near the power I expected. Then on a fairly cold day(15F) it did not start. Only had 1800 miles on the plugs. I towed it to a heated garage thinking the cold weather was the reason. Still didn't start. KDR said to check the plugs. They were saturated. Put new plugs in - 9s was all we could get in town and that's what KDR had in. Started right up. Car is faster than hell now. KDR recommended I run 10.5s when running hight boost. I run WI and high octane and 20psi.

Are you saying I should get B105EGV? I can get these for $5.11 apiece from www.sparkplugs.com.

Also aren't plugs supposed to last more than 1,800 miles?

Ken

 

Ken, plug fouling is not related to life. It is a fuel metering problem sometimes exagerated in cold operating conditions.

When everything is operating fine and you have no fouling then plug life comes down to a number of factors, one of them being carbon build up on the porcelin insulator on the nose and the ground body near the electrodes, this does not realy effect us cause we run water injection which kills these excessive deposits. If you get deposit build up you will need to pull the plugs before they "wear out" due to voltage leakage from the build up.

Plugs in a high HP aplication should easily last that distance, and then can be taken out and regaped to perform like a near new one, I run my plugs till there is not enough material left on the groud electorde to give the gap I require. You can only realy regap them 2 times and the metal will fatigue, also in high heat conditions (power related) you will find that after allot of use that it is possible to flatten the ground electrode (pushed back onto the center electrode !!!) when you get to this point the plug has reached it's usefull life. Again it all depends on the load your engine sees. If you are racing then you will need to replace them before they fatigue, if you mainly cruise then you will need to replace them due to mechanical wear or fouling depending on your engine set up and tune.

Yes Ken B10EGV's will be plenty cold enough for your engine on WI, I would not run higher than this unless your cold start, and cruise fuel map is perfect.

 

well as im sure you know plugs should last longer than that. once I had to start the car several times over a month never letting teh car run for more than 30 seconds each time. Then the day I was ready to start her for good, nothing. turn's out she needed new plugs.
Seems teh plugs fould on our cars and there's no middle ground. they just GO!

I'm going to go with 10s I suppose Ill order a set from sparkplugs.com today.

NOPE just called Advance Auto. they have them instock for 3.99 Each... guess Ill get them tonight.

they have the b10egv's
didn't think to ask for the b105egv's but Im sure they'll be about the same.

 

Don't forget, you will need either a special extra thin wall spark plug socket or have access to a grinder and a disposable socket that you won't mind grinding down. These plugs work great but you cannot install them with a regular spark plug socket, as it will hit on the raised portion on the rotor housing. Racingbeat sells a socket for these plugs or you can just make your own...

 

So, are you saying the NGK BUR9EQP(stock ones) are physically different than the B10EGV and you need a different socket to be able to install them?

I noticed it is $60 from Racing Beat and does not look like your normal socket for a normal socket wrench.

Ken

 

If you look at the housing where the spark plug sits there is a raised portion. The stock plug sit up high enough so that you can still fit a spark plug socket on the plug. The EGV's sit lower in the hole and are almost flush with the surface of the housing so you need a VERY thin socket that will fit around the spark plug in into the hole at the same time. I just took a junker socket and ground it down and it works fine. You can buy these plugs at any motorcycle shop also so that is a very nice feature.

 

NGK are the best bang for the buck

 

Ok, i'm going to sound really stupid, but here goes. How do you gap an RE plug? Do you need a special tool? I just installed some BUR9EQ's all around right out the box and it seems to run fine. Thanks.

 

You gap B9EGVs not the stock plugs BUR9EQ's.

Ken

 

Bur9eq's fouled very easily in my FD. I was having ton's of problems with them. I couldn't figure out why. So i tried B10EGV's and the car instantly ran much better. i couldn't believe it. It turned out the stock twins are gone and there puking oil. This was killing the plugs. But the B10EGV's are still running fine. They seem to be less prone to fouling out compared to the BUR's. It's the only plug i use now. (Thanks RICE!!!)

As for the socket issue. I just took an old 13/16" Socket and had it lathed down at my friends shop. No need to buy those expensive one's

 

Whoops sorry i messed all teh discussion but it looks like Rice answered everything.

Also, there is a guy here on the forum that sells a soket he modifies to work with these plugs. He basically take a normal socket and cuts it down on a lathe

I cant remember his name but you can do a search and hopefully find him. If not I can try and dig thru all my millions of paypal transactions and see if I can find him.

If you search for plug socket in the for sale section I'm sure you can find him.

Good Luck, and awsome find about the Auto Zone price!!!! You know I never even checked cause I'm so used to needing to order my plugs online haha

And yea, I run the B10EGV plug all the way around with a msd on the leading and its working awsome. I also do a lot of cruising since its my daily driver.

STEPHEN

 

Here ya go, I did a little leg work for you guys!!!! Here is a link to the guy selling the thin walled sockets for $20 shipped

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...highlight=plug

STEPHEN

 

I sent Dave at KDR an e-mail on this thread. This was his response:

Hey Ken..we have found that we use the 10.5 to 11 ngk race tips for single turbocars and seems to work super...the fact 9's we use on all others...and seem to work well up to 15 lbs of boost..beyound that they have a tendency to miss fire...hope this helps...dave@KDR

Ken

 

Sounds like Dave just doesnt know anything about B10egv plugs.

If I were you I'd try the B10EGV plugs and see how you like them. I've ran up to 20psi of boost on them with pump gas and a msd6a on the leading plugs. Nice and smooth with no break up at all.

Tell Dave he might want to try them out sometime.

STEPHEN

 

Hey Ken..we have found that we use the 10.5 to 11 ngk race tips for single turbocars and seems to work super...the fact 9's we use on all others...and seem to work well up to 15 lbs of boost..beyound that they have a tendency to miss fire...hope this helps...dave@KDR

I thought that is what Dave was saying. He uses stock 9's for stock twins up to 15psi and race tip NGKs for singles over 15psi and they work great. Did I miss something???

Ken

 

i think what SPO is saying is. the BG10EV's are different than the $30 each NGK race 10.5 and 11.5 plugs. i'm gonna go with whatever my mechanic recommends. so far i've used bur9eq's up to 15psi with no problems at all

 

I sent Dave an e-mail to clarify what he ment.

Don't expect anything soon. Usually takes a few days for a return reply.

Ken

 

Yea, Vosko had it right, Dave is using those "race plugs" that cost upward of $30 EACH and look like your normal rotary style plug. These look like a regular type plug that your gap, and they are only $3 - $5 each and work awsome.

Its just something for you to try. If Dave wants you to use something spacific then go with what he suggested but they are going to set you back about $120 for one set that your probably going to foul.

BTW - Why are your running less than 15psi with water inj and all that? Didnt you say he had 9's in your car??? I say its time for some boost haha

STEPHEN

 

It's cold below, zero F lately so I'm not running at all. Before it got cold and I was running 20psi.

We'll see what Dave says, but I'm not paying $30 a plug. I'll run 9's till they fail then go to this new idea and 10-11s at high boost. Originally I was only going to run 20 psi seldom. Now with low cost fuel - $2.89 a gallon for 110 octane unleaded, WI and RaceLogic Traction Control to control the beast I plan on running 20psi maybe more when the weather gets better.

Ken