I took a apart an engine built by RMAGIC, they used some non breakable seals. In less than 3000 miles the housings looked a state, picture below of the housings. I personally don't think the seals by themselves are fully responsible, I think heat plays a big part too. This car in question was running anti lag which I think magnified the damage to the housings. The housings were brand new when installed, the compression was mid 7's on one rotor and mid 6's on the other.
I have just received a set of super seals for my car, and will find out wear characteristics first hand.

Brian

 

follow-up:
I did a quick compression check today and all sides were between 87 - 93. Pretty much the same as it's always been. That's pretty much the reading I always get on my compression tester with a few different rotaries I've tested. My gauge is probably off a little too. I probably lost about 5 - 10 psi since I first used these seals 36,000 something miles ago. Then again, that was in my last block which was a 6-port before it decided to destroy itself.
BTW, they've also survived some severe detonation time and again (I was playing with my timing under WOT), as well as those rare times when I ran out of premix oil - or any oil for that matter- when I needed gas. So, I'm guesstimating the seals have survived a total of 3000+ miles on straight gas. (I didn't fully care because of how bad I beat on my last engine and I planned on rebuilding it eventually...... just because)

 

Tracy has ALWAYS given me 100% awesome customer service
even gave a free set of seals cause there was a mistake on my order
can't get better then that

I'm not a ordinary rotary street car I trust RA and there super seals 10000%
even tho I'm taking my sweet time I'll soon have pics of my updated engine bay

 

No point in waiting, lets see those pics now !

We all know it's gonna be crazy so spill the beans !

 

exactly. for someone like me that builds mostly for my own consumption, i have to think about costs. my setup (and anonymity) so far does not premit me to do high volume or even moderate volume business and the few motors that i have built for others, i've used Mazda seals simply because i don't experiment with other people's stuff. however, i'm trying to get into some EMS tuning with my cars now and obviously will make mistakes, so i need to have the most cost-effective, but functional, seals i can get.

 

eh kabooski v3 coming soon then V4

V4 is not going to be a street car no more

 

SAY IT AINT SO !!!!!!!!

Streetcar is where it's at

 

You may even rival my changing of setups.


Hey Eric, i just noticed that your SN is a year old. Time for a new one?

 

I've been thinking of a change lately, just to **** people off. I need to get good and drunk first. That's when I come up with the best names.

 

Something to do with eBay.

 

~S~

 

Maybe his signature can just be something like. . .

"Everything except the SS Autochrome manifold"

 

Nice report. I too have gone several tanks of gas with out pre-mix over my 17k mileage period. My OMP doesn't work at all. So far so good. I took pics of my housings b4 installation of the RA seals. My rear housing had some previous apex seal damage. Should be interesting to see if the rock hard RA seals infact smooth out the scratches that were there in the beginning. If they don't, then it's safe to say that they dont wear the housings like people think. I plan on opening up the engine when I get the 20b up an running.

 

A good and known builder told me to use carbon seals until I got my tune dialed in. That way if I smoke a carbon apex it will not damage any housings, rotors, etc. Then once you get the tune down throw in a set of ceramics, etc. Carbon seals are a noobs tuners best friend.

 

carbon seals won't work on a turbo, use hurley seals instead, they won't damage housing, they just bend

 

Well someone very famous was testing them not too long ago and they happpen to survive an accidental 65PSI over boost where the motor complety stop running and turned off. All the seals were still together. None of them broke but they did bend. The apex seal springs were all flat.

 

I know a lot people who have broken them.

 

hurleys break and damage housing, happened to me before.

 

We currently use Tuff-Stuff apex seals, We are putting them through some pretty rigorous testing too... The exhaust temps we have seen with them is way more than any other metallic type seal has coped with. There are a fair few 8 sec cars here in Aus using them with awesome results. The price aint that bad either at $990AU per set which includes the assist piece. We had a fuel pump failure just after 1/2 track which you could imagine what standard seals would have done.... Kept the pedal buried & coasted through the traps for an 8.9 sec pass @ only 141mph. Pulled the engine down to find 2 melted plugs,cracked front plate & 2 bent apex seals. We now only use these...

 

Any new info? Are they still kicking *** with these seals? How long would they last compared to stock ?

 

whats the conclusion on RA super seals

 

TUFFSTUFF APEX SEALS.



ALS APEX SEALS

 

What do you think about those ALS seals Chris???

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APEX-...mZ120238394170

 

Just seen this... Rmagic uses only Mazda OEM seals unless requested by a customer and he still leans toward OEM seals. When I showed him Atkins seals he expressed interest in using them and see what the results were. The only other seals readily available in Japan are the Scoot NB apex seal so I would assume that was the seal used in that motor.