Here is my first test under crappy conditions.
Cold weather 20F. On crappy tires - Cold hard Nitto 555 Extreme 35psi 300 tread ware 235/45-17. Crappy asphalt parking lot. I did only two launches as I don't want to get a ticket. I'll do more another time. I used my Vericom computer. It was on auto start and it does not start it's timer till .2Gs. I launched at 3k rpms(dumped the clutch). I measured the times for 20 feet only.

--------------------------------mph---time-peak Gs
No Traction Control--------------18.7--1.17--.47
Traction Control set to 15%-----19.6--1.14---.69

At 20 mph there is basically no boost yet.

I can't wait to do one at 60 feet. I don't want to go much more than that as I will have to shift to 2nd gear and I don't want that entering in. I think the key stat is the Gs I reached in 20 feet compared to having it turned off.

Sorry, I don't live in a warmer climate. Have to wait for summer.

Ken, 58 years young
'94 white, pep, red leather,
mods: Hayes/KDR street port & polished,
3mm Hurley racing seals,
upgraded coolant seals,
Power FC ecu, Commander, Datalogit,
XS T04e single turbo kit,
GReddy SMIC (400+cu.in.),
Aquamist 2s water injection kit,
Pettit ss resonated MP,
Pettit ss cat-back,
RP Racing fuel pump,
1600cc injectors,
Profec B(15&21psi),
3-Bar Map Sensor,
Centerforce clutch,
Racelogic Traction Control,
Under pulley kit (no air pump),
Pettit short shifter kit,
LaBreck's bushings,
Evans Coolant
http://nopistons.com/luv94rx7.html
http://flathat.woodstream.net/LUV94RX7/

 

It can; if it was engineered to. Most aren't; yours is. Just like the ABS systems, the computer can modulate the throttle/brakes much better than a mere mortal. This is under the stipulation that the computer is programmed to do so with performance ahead of safety.

 

It should based on those preliminary numbers, I will tell you how I go with mine in the new year (hard install, as no ABS) I have the Launch control option which is meant to make a fair difference on a standing start too.

You will definatley notice a big improvement in accell once boost kicks in and the tires want to "burn up" in 1st and second gear

 

I have not driven my car since 11-28-02 - Thanksgiving, except for last night to do this test. I will be doing more. I was ill. On 11-28-02 I took my nephew out for a spin at 10% slippage. He has a NOS Busa in the 8s and 160mph and a V8 Chev FC that does 1.7 60" times and has not been beaten off the line in street races yet.
I did a did a 3k launch and floored it till about 90mph. The kid could not believe the acceration. He said there is no way his car could beat me. It just planted and went. No going out of contol at all.

I accidently did a mild launch coming home and when I power ****** into 2nd I almost lost it. I was surpised and found out I had traction control turned off. I immediately put it back on.

I'll post more numbers as I get them.

Ken

 

Sweet I cant wait, I have allot of problem with my car with grip so the racelogic will be worth it.

It is hard finding rotary guys who have used it, and I was holding of for a long time cause of the shared function of injector 1&3 and 2&4 running both the front and rear rotor faces respectivley (In a given cycle 720 deg crank rotation Injector 1 & 3 does Front rotor face 1 & 2, the same happens on the rear injectors, so there is always overlaping of individual injector cycles being shared over two rotor faces "totally unlike a piston engine"). The way the race logic unit controls the injectors while not totally starving the engine of lubrication or making it run not lean enough to cause detonation is all in the software programming. It's scary when you look at the time diagrams and see the overlap of the respective injectors and try to figure out how the f$#@ they do it with out poping the motor !

I had both the UK guy and the guy I am buying it off assure me it works well on 13B four injector engines once the software has been modified, after hearing your positive experience it was enough for me to give it a go They look like very very smart guys so a bit of injector sharing a rotor cant be too hard compared to getting a 90odd model F1 Ferrari ECU and dash to work from scratch with all kinds of wierd interfaces Some of the stuff on their sight is realy amazing !

 

You are right it is in the programming. I found out you can program whatever % slippage you want. Does not have to be (off, 0%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%) like mine is.

Water will save you. Should save me too when I run 22psi and 100 octane. I have 100 octane in the tank now. HHMMM maybe 22psi today??

I'll eventually get JIMLAB to cave in.

Ken

 

Rice Racing, did you finally get on the "Big List"?

Ken

 

If I buy one, will you quit pestering me about it?

 

You are the one with big time traction problems.

Just trying to help.

Come up with a solution to my suspension problems and there will not be another word out of me.

Ken

 

Nup, still got no idea how to get on it

 

I think I will give this up till April 2003.

I know the car ran much better when I took my nephew out on Thanksgiving.
Temp was 30F, 93 octane and water was NOT working. Water broke 50 miles out of PA and I had no time to fix it before Thanksgiving. I just got back and had 4 hours of sleep and had to go to my brother’s for Thanksgiving.

I tried to find a place to do some runs. I had traction control set for 10% slippage. I don’t think I’m going to try it with traction control OFF till the summer. With these cold hard tires on cold lousy traction roads it’s too dangerous. I finally found a backwater road where I would not be caught, but only room to do 1/8 mile runs. Missed 3rd once and could not get it into reverse. Took a few tries and finally it went in. It’s not real good though. Mazda 5-speeds are lousy, not like a T56. Drag racing is too hard on my car and I can’t afford any more expenses breaking stuff.

Car did not feel too strong, especially at high rpms. Maybe it is because water was working. I really don’t think I need water injection in 15F weather. Dave has water to kick in at 7.5psi and I put on 60 miles today on a ¼ tank of gas and used 1.5 gallons of water. That is a lot of water. I’m thinking too much and that’s why the low high end numbers. Maybe I’ll try a dyno run with it turned off. I had 100 octane so I tried a couple at 20psi, it ran worse. I don’t think Dave had enough time to tune it on his dyno, it broke while he was tuning it for water after he had it tuned without water. Guess I’m screwed there, as I have no one here that knows dyno tuning with my setup. Wife said she would leave me if I ever try to drive to or from KDR again. She was really upset when she found out about the terrible trip back.

The road I found had some gritty feeling as I could hear sandy stuff hitting my wheel wells. It was 15F outside. Here is a sample run. Commander had peaks of 82% injector duty cycle, 15psi boost, 192F water temp, 59F intake temp to the motor.

I launched at 4.5k rpms.

15’ .94sec, 16mph, .59Gs
30’ 1.48sec, 23mph, .63Gs
60’ 2.22sec, 33mph, .64Gs
330’ 5.74sec, 71mph, .29Gs
660’ 8.55sec, 92mph, .28Gs

Before I started I did a Vericom dyno run in 2nd gear. Car ran better than when I was dragging.

I show Dave dyno #s and the Vericom #s. It shows a ton more power down low then Dave’s dyno and much less than Dave’s dyno at the top end. I believe the Vericom on the low end because the car is really strong down low. It’s much better than I expected. I think it just needs some good tuning on the top end and I’ll be okay. Trouble is where do I get this tuning. I wish Wyum knew Datalogit. Dave said it took him a few months to really get good with Datalogit.

Dave
rwhp rpm Vericom
053 - 2.5 136
084 - 3.0 144
137 - 3.5 153
212 - 4.0 199
260 - 4.5 238
300 - 5.0 297
330 - 5.5 348
345 - 6.0 340
340 - 6.5 300
325 - 7.0 290
-------7.5 255

Ken

 

I think I know the answer for the low high-rpm rwhp numbers. I was running on cold roads, it was 15F and had cold poor traction hard rubber tires. Traction control was set at 10% slippage. Traction contol cuts the power to whatever traction can be had at 10% slippage. If I had it turned off the tires would have gone up in smoke and there would be no traction at all. This run was done in 2nd gear.

Ken

 

Hint: Start somewhere other than the bushings...

It's ~30 degrees out, by your own admission, and you're driving around on tires that have been sitting for over a year, probably fully inflated. They're probably as hard as rocks from both factors.

Second, you haven't stated what your suspension setup is. Driving around in 30 degree weather hammering on your car is probably not going to work well with shocks that work much better in warmer weather. If you've got aftermarket shocks, check the valve settings, if they're adjustable. As I stated in e-mail, check your rear sway bar too. If the rear of the car has been apart (which it has) you should check the alignment of the rear sway bar. I had problems with the rear hopping with a stock (R1) rear sway bar and shocks set too stiff also.

In a car with a straight suspension (unwrecked) the bushings are neutral. They don't "influence" the movement of the suspension, the rate of spring compression, or shock rebound, or any other factor. They're suspension pivot points, nothing more. Were your wheels re-aligned after the bushings were installed?

I understand that the newest thing installed is usually the first place to look, but look at the conditions you're driving in, how you're driving, the tires that you're driving on, and other factors before you reach the decision that the suspension pivot points are kicking the rear of your car out for no apparent reason. Out of over 250 kits sold, not one person has reported a problem like the one you're describing.

Sorry Ken, but without seeing the car and driving it, I can't give you any more specific advice on what might be wrong, but I'll put money on the fact that it isn't the bushings.