ok sorry about this question but wut does FD stand for? And yet another stupid question wut does double clutching mean? And the last stupid one i thought they stop making rx7's in 1995?

Is it true that rotarys blow at 60k miles cause im lookin for a rx7 and found a couple wit around 45k on them. Is that good? Is there sum things to look for when buying a one

 

If you look at the vin numbers on the RX-7's all the 2nd gens are fc3s and the 3rd gens are fd3s, I think the 1st gens are saxx or something similar.

Double clutching means you use it once to take it out of gear and once to put it into the next gear.

And no, rotaries don't blow at 60k miles unless they've been severely abused. My '88 went 168k miles before it needed a rebuild due to leaking oil rings. In my opinion, the turbo rotary engines got an undeserved reputation for blowing their apex seals from clowns who turned the boost up too high without compensating with sufficient fuel. Just my $.02

 

Dude thanx a mil. Just how much would it cost to rebuild the engine? And what are sum things to look for to see if itz abused?

 

SA, FB, FC, FD

 

Going by vin #'s:
1978-1980 SA22C
1981-1985 FB33
1986-1992 FC3S
1993-Present FD3S

RX-7's were discontinued here in 1994 due to poor sales. Excess 1994 models were sold in 1995 as 1995 models. They are still manufactured and sold in Japan, and are rumoured to be coming back to North America in 2004 or 2005...

And my 1984 GSL-SE has 100 000+ miles on it's engine and still runs great.

 

There's a little more to double clutching. Non-synchromesh transmissions on older cars and trucks did not have a mechanism (syncros) to match the gear speed of the gears and clutch disc when you would up-shift or down-shift. Hence, if you attempted to shift, the gears would not engage (mesh) but would grind, since one would be spinning rapidly, while the other was moving slowly. During up-shifting, say from second to third, second gear would be spinning rapidly, as well as the clutch disc from the high rpms at the end of second gear range. By depressing the clutch, placing the trans in neutral and momentarily letting the clutch back in, with foot off gas, you will slow down the clutch disc. Then by depressing the clutch and shifting into third, the speed of the clutch disc and the third gear speed are more evenly timed and will engage. You can *ram* into the next higher gear usually, but it does some damage . Down shifting is the reverse. When you momentarily place the trans in neutral and let the clutch out, you must blip the gas to speed up the clutch disc so it will go into the lower gear. No amount of *ramming* will make this work. Occasionally large trucks would miss a downshift on a long hill and not be able to try again quickly enough to get it into gear. This was big trouble, since now they were in neutral, with only brakes to slow them down. Usually followed by a big high speed crash.

 

Couldn't have said it better myself.

 

Thanx a mil guys

 

My engine on my 3rd gen went 90K before losing compression. Needless to say I was one of the guys that probably through in too much boost for its age. Damn single turbo....

Happy rotoring,
Ryker

 

www.corksport.com has j-spec engines for relatively cheap.. I think there's another place like "nippon motors" or something (anyone have an address?) that has them cheap too, but with a warranty (30 days.)

-Tesla