Royal Purple lubricants....

Anyone have opinions, experiences etc.?

They have a lot of different products to suit many applications. Many racers are using and sware by their products. Racing Beat claims it's the only engine oil that they have ever tested that actualy increased horsepower. I'm going to try their racing engine oil for alcohol/nitro applications. I may even test it on the dyno to see if the claims are true!

crispeed
87 Rx-7 TII
9.204@150.47mph
2600lbs
un-tubbed

 

only their ultra low viscosity race oil (racing 9) makes noticeably more power. whether this is due to their special formula or simply due to the lower viscosity, i don't know. you should do a test w/ a similar viscosity of another brand.

 

I know someone that got bad oil from them... blew up there motor... he had it tested and I forgott what the hell was wrong with it... a few cases were bad and othere people exp problems too...

 

I make it a practice to question any second hand experience regarding lubricants. I will say that any lube manufacturer/bottler can have quality issues (meaning variances from bottle to bottle). Most of the big companies have quality issues designed out of their process.

I have used RP products for years and continue to use their MaxGear75W90 in my diffs. Never dyno'd before & after but RP has comparative data from several customers. Remember that BIG Pro race teams run RP oils even though there is an Exxon or some other company logo on the car, this is a fact. This may or may not mean anything to you.

No I don't work for RP, but passed on an opportunity to do so a few years back.

Stopped using their engine oils due to cost, even at wholesale its pricey. Tried their lubes in the Rx7 transmission and had no luck, didn't spin the synchros properly so shifting was notchy. Had better luck with Redline MT90 in the trans and continue to use it today. Used RP 2-cycle race oil to premix as well the Redline 2-cycle. All I can say is beware of the Redline as I had one 2-cycle bottle out of a case where the additives fell out of suspension ... it was all in the bottom of the bottle. That is a problem with the Redline oils, their basestocks for engine oil are what is commonly known as a turbine oil and it's a bit tricky to keep the additives in suspension. Check every bottle before using it.

 

i have dynod RP in a test FD . by changing all of the fluids (diff,tranny, and engine the car gained 8 h.p. to the wheels and i have been using it since with no issues! i am now sponsered by them and use the NITRO 50 for my race car. Crispeed. i just switched to this stuff over the normal race 50 and it has not contaminated yet!! although i have not been down the track with it yet, with the normal race it would contaminate after about 10 minutes of run time. i have had the NITRO in for a month now with about 20 minutes of run time and it is still not contaminated.

FD you are wrong ALL of the fluids make power, i owned a dyno and have tested them my self along with redline and a few other brands.

how in the hell does oil blow up your motor? i always hear these stories about doing a oil changed and then mysteriously the engine blows!! what exactly happened to the engine? do you have proof that the oil did it? i have never had ANY oil blow and engine up but i have seen people use the wrong weight and damage their engines ( like racing 9 in a rotary) or even 10/30 can give you problems. i have been using RP for 8 years now with no ill effects. but Crispeed dont believe what i say try for yourself , i think you will like it.


MWW

 

ok let me clarify, IN MY EXPERIENCE the higher weight rp race oils didn't make extra power. haven't tried the nitro 50 though. mww, since you're sponsored by them could you tell us the difference between their race oils and their regular synthetic oils. how is it formulated differently and does the race make considerably more power than the regular? btw, we've been trying torco oils lately, seems to make a touch more power than rp.

 

i have all of my data stuff at the shop i will chime back in tomorrow. what is torco? i have never heard of it.

MWW

 

I'm going to try it. Anything that's going to help deal with the methanol contamination in the oil is a plus for me. I don't give a damm about the power increase but if that's a benefit then bring it on!

crispeed
87 Rx-7 TII
9.204@150.47mph
2600lbs
un-tubbed

 

then go with the nitro50, it comes in a 5 gallon pail.they even have a nitro 70 too!

MWW

 

Have any idea of the price?
I'm always in need of sponsorship! Hint Hint!

crispeed
87 Rx-7 TII
9.204@150.47mph
2600lbs
un-tubbed

 

i dont even know off the top of my head and i forgot to bring my data sheet home! it took me a year of kissin *** to get them to help me out!! ( not to mention propasals, demographics etc etc.) luckily i am good friends with one of the local distributers and they finally decided to help out.

MWW

 

I'd doubt switching to RP engine oils would cause someone to lose an engine....unless they are thinking of the old story of high mileage car switch to synthetic and since it cleaned out the crud and sludge around the oil seals, o-rings (piston engines) it starting having blow by.

I've used it for the past 4 years in the engine, tranny, and diff. with no problems, no leaks. Can I tell a difference, no, my butt dyno can't fell 2 to 8 hp increases, but it gives me piece of mind knowing its in there.

Tim

 

These race oils are only meant for race cars (meaning changed after every one or two races?)

 

Interesting that you've had problems...I've been using MaxGear in both tranny and diff, and RP 10W30 in my motor, for a couple of years now with no problems, and I think shifting has improved a bit over whatever was in there before (I don't think it was synthetic).

jds

 

Not sure why I had difficulty with shifting on my tranny. I was dealing direct with an RP application engineer, not a sales guy or a storefront. I think we gave it a fair test. If you ever have an opportunity to try the MT90 I would be interested to know if it makes a diff.

 

funny, i tried MT90 and it shifted notchy!!


MWW

 

Does RP have a site?

crispeed

 

Uhhh...yeah!

http://www.royalpurple.com/
:-D

jds

 

I use Rp racing 41 in my car, love it, have had no problems with it ever, i dont change it for 6000miles, and it is still good to use, i was using penrite meneral oil and every 2000miles it was fu(ked!

i am also using there H/D diff oil and it shuts up the 9in Nicely!

i will never use anything else in my mazda.

Dale

 

after i smoked my bearings on my bp i tried the royal purple, needless to say my bearings have been holding up!!! i love the stuff, i use the racing 50 or the 20w50...i was told the only difference is the 20w50 is API certified(read back label)

the only downside is at $6.00 a quart and my 7 quart oil pan $42.00 oil canges suck! o-well who said racing was cheap?

 

what's the difference btwn. the nitro line and the racing line? how does the nitro contaminate less? let's say there's the same amount of blowby, so the same amount of fuel gets into the oil. what happens to the fuel in the oil w/ the rp, that makes it less contaminated?

 

i have no earthly idea!!! all i know is that it has been 5 weeks now and absolutely no contamination!


MWW

 

marcus,
do their street oils also contaminate less?

 

the street oils contaminate but remember i am running methanol. gasoline does not effect the oils at all so on normal street car contamination is not an issue. when methanol cantaminates the oil turns milky.

MWW

 

go AMSOIL!