what is considered the strongest factory rotor for Hi-hp turbo engines??

 

Strongest?
you are going to bust an apex LONG before you do any damage to the rotor.

 

Not true, I've smashed in the face of a rotor so bad inward it split, yes the seal broke as well but both were done period. You can dent FD rotors pretty easily when making power and something goes wrong. You're looking for turbo II rotors thicker casting, they are heavier too as well as lower compression. They aren't needed though if your tune is on and the engine properly assembled. I run FD rotors just fine in high HP cars.

~S~

 

O_o what where you doing? I know some one in Nagoya that put down 733kW with REW internals, I think thats about ~980hp.

If you are busting rotors just due to the power you're making you have invested more money into the 13b than you would have spent on a 20b at the same power level and would get a larger power band with the 20b. If you break a S4-S6 rotor with under 750hp you got one with a casting flaw or the tune is fubar.

 

Tune don't need to be fubar'd nor a casting flaw, all you need is a component failure ie pump, ignition, etc.

~S~

 

nit pick much?
this still is inline with what i was saying, if you break a rotor power is not you're problem. If something does happen to break a rotor it does not matter what kind you have any of them will have enough damage they will need to be replaced.

 

I'd love to get my hands on one of the old 9.2 rotors and use it in a turbo project.

 

Lol take a deep breath and relax over there.

That's still not entirely true, good luck denting a TII rotor from detonation. However, I've seen numerous engines detonate, crack or spit out a seal, take out a housing or turbine and still have a usable rotor. TII rotors don't buckle the way FD rotors do. You can detonate with a FD rotor, buckle the rotor, lose or even just crack a seal and be fine otherwise or you can do the same thing with a TII rotor and still have a good rotor. The question was, which is the strongest factory rotor? The answer is TII.

Assuming this is a drag app which makes sense for the questions even to be raised the next fair estimated guess would be most likely a softer seal such as ALS, SCR, PTS etc. (not all choose that, but it's fair to say a lot do for cost reasons, damage control etc.) So the main concern rotor wise becomes collapsing the rotor face if you have a component failure. I've done many things, broke many parts under pretty extreme conditions, even just to see what breaks next sometimes. I've yet to collapse a TII rotor face. (not saying it isn't possible) Seems plates wanna break first. We will keep seeing what boost level we can run. So far I'm comfortable with 60psi. I think the next issues we will see are either bearing or e-shaft.

 

Interesting read, nice to see you pushing things and testing the limits.

 

s4 TII is the strongest and lowest compression (8.5:1). s5 TII and FD are the same rotor, and have a thinner casting and 9.0 compression.

Unless your application is all out drag car (ie-sub 10 second 1/4) or just some sort of super dyno queen this shouldnt be an issue, as rotor failures are atypical.

 

thanks Zero-R,, for confirmation, they maybe slightly heavier but take detonation better.

is it possible that FD rotors could actually deform and distort apex seal groove, and then fail the apex??

 

Well Ron we both know that they can be dented as my last engine had one seriously dented rotor. Can't remember if those were FD rotors or not.

 

Is it possible I guess so, usually the face dents this causes it to pull inward that would open the slot up more than likely if anything. I haven't seen it yet. I had one drag guy here run on dented rotors for a whole season because he didn't want to buy new ones. That said I wont do it. If your tune is on and everything is golden there is no reason you couldn't run FD rotors. Lighter slightly higher compression for more power with less boost. They are just less forgiving as well.

~S~

 

YES! Johan your engine had FD rotors, and the rear dented the most, and when i tried a new seal in groove it became sticky, so we replaced rotor, with a good FD rotor.

like Zero R says, IF everything is golden!

i love rotarys but they can be so fragile.

 

Nah we can build and tune one that'll last you. The key factors are proper build and proper fuel. With that in mind the rest isn't that hard to do.

~S~