I have a question.

Will the RA Superseal scrap off CERMET coating?

 

I ran a set of RA classics on a N/A motor w/ Cermet B housing from JHB and it ran great.

 

That's what I was going to do, thanks!

 

How many miles did you put on that engine? The few engines I have seen with the cermet housings, the housings have destroyed the seals within 10k miles. Worn them down to practically nothing causing slow compression loss.

 

still going today. I built that motor in 06, and have not seen the car since.

 

Taken from their site

"RA Super Seals are made of the same base material as classic RA seals." All ra seals are designed to warp and not break.

 

ra seals wont break in an engine in most conditions. have not seen one break myself inside an engine. they are tougher then all of the other steel seals i have tried without specifically mentioning brand names.

my experience ^^^^^ dont eat me.

 

will they work up 11000 rpm in a pport

 

are the seals heavy like the stock ones

 

from what i have weighed they are all fairly close to 8 grams.

 

bump

also not trying to go off topic but has anyone heard of or used pts seals?

 

more update on housings with these seals?

I am thinking of ordering a set for my build,
the new rotors are 3mm cut,
my housings and irons are brand new,
not much options on 3mm, what do u guys recomend?

 

If you're looking for the superseals for a 3mm I got a brand new set for a reasonable price if you needed it.

 

I will decide in the next couple day's James pm me a price,

I am woried that my new housings will be gone in 10k miles I hear,
if I can get 35k out of them I will be happy thats what I got with atkins on used housings,

how do pts seals compare to ra?

 

I will give them a try and c how they do on new housings,

did anyone machine them for 2pc spring or is it not needed?

 

I used RA 2mm and 3mm super seals and would not recommend them.

Even with the OMP and 50:1 premix they will wear your chrome down in thousands of miles. I had big gouges in the chrome on some housings and they quickly wore all the chrome down so there was no gouge. They also always leave striations in the housing in the direction of travel. All this and they still break and warp if bad enough stuff happens.

On my last motor I used stock 3mm seals and only the OMP for lubrication. The wear is minimal and the housings are still nice and smooth as they should be.

 

I got 45K on my rebult S5 NA engine that has RA 2mm seals. The housings had previous damage from blowing earlier so it will give me a good reference point to see if there is indeed more wear damage from the seals. This engine is premix only! I guess it's time for me to finally pull it apart for inspection and post before and after pics.

 

well the fastest rotory drag car uses them, and ive heard a few other people use them and they like it...i have a set of ra new 2pc seals im debating on keeping them for when i rebuild my 12a,,,

 

You can't compare a drag car to a street application. Its almost like comparing a piston car to a rotary. A drag car uses all meth for fuel, in which case changes everything when it comes to keeping your apex seal cool. A drag car that runs 7's or faster will have to change the motor every 5 runs or so, so it doesn't matter what seal they use for the most part. The RA super seal will warp prior to breaking. Thats the ONLY benefit. In a street car, your best just to use stock seals. They seal the best and make the most power. If you do use super seals, I'd run some sort of water injection to keep the aic temps down. This will prolong your engine life ten fold in a street car.

 

what seals are you using ernie?

 

Yours, of course

 

Cant say I agree with you. I still dont see why anyone would run the stock seals shy of a bone stock car or NA car. Yes, you can make power with them, but they destroy everything when they go. There are other options out there, such as ALS seals. Just look at Sk8worlds car, over 12k miles on that engine(built by himself) with not $3k in extra mods(2 piece shaft, studs, dowels) and he is laying down times real similar to yours.

I hear nothing but great things about the seals SpeedNYC is selling now also, so it shocks me you tell people to stick with the stock seals.

Ask Mike(sk8world) about his compression with over 12k miles and a decent bit of drag racing action. To quote him he says it hot starts the same as it did with 1k miles on it. Same thing I hear from all my customers with the ALS seals. I consistently see near 120 psi on used housings with the ALS seals.

Ive personally ran water/meth with RA superseals. They still left the striations in the housings you could feel with your fingernail after only 5-6k miles of use. This was with water/meth, premix and a functioning OMP. Ive said it before, they are a great seal and forgiving especially for the price, however, there are better options these days for those who want power and reliability.

 

I only said use stock seals for a street car. Most street cars are 450hp or under. As long as you have a good tune it will last ya years of fun. Im using Roans seals now. Dyno. Numbers this week

 

Exactly. That's like the D16 Civics that make 400hp. Sure they can do that on a dragstrip. Let's see them do that for minutes at a time. They can't.

If a season of drag racing is six runs and twenty weekends, and maaaaybe 1.5 miles per run (assuming a long runoff and no tow-back), that's about 180 miles.

180 miles would *almost* be enough street miles to get me TO my competitions.

How many drag racers start their runs with coolant and oil temps soaring? How many keep the throttle bolted to the floor for 10-20 seconds at a time with little engine acceleration, temps getting higher and higher...

How many drag racers care about any kind of wear at all, as long as it doesn't suffer catastrophic failure?

 

yeah we figured that out too, the entire drag racing SEASON is under 15 minutes of run time, and they expect to build the engine at least once (on a 600hp honda)

in road racing 15 minutes is our warm up...