Need Low Cost ECU Upgrade
#1
Need Low Cost ECU Upgrade
OK, I know that after installing a Downpipe, Cold Air Intake, Low Restriction Exhaust and Cat, that if you don't put the boost and fuel under control you'll be driving a timebomb. I plan on a little later on getting an AEM EMS, or something close, but for now, what is a low cost way of getting around it, even if its only for a few months?
#2
SAFC and Boost Controller
Would a SAFC and a boost controller do the job? Again, for now I am trying to keep it low cost for now, but at the same time, not trying to blow up the engine to. If you have another suggestion that cost less I would like to know. I know that your are almost forced to do the ECU upgrade. Heck, you have to get rid of the stupid Pre-Cat, and the CAI prevents hot air from the engine bay getting sucked in and possibly cause detonation. Yes, I know you don't need to do the Low Restrict Cat and Muffler, but hey its easy power.
#3
Solution: Buy the EMS first, and then upgrade the other items.
A Microtech LT8S is only $1075, which is about what you would spend on the intake and exhaust items you have already mentioned.
http://www.rx7store.net/index.asp?Pa...ROD&ProdID=791
BTW, a boost controller can raise boost, but can't lower it.
A Microtech LT8S is only $1075, which is about what you would spend on the intake and exhaust items you have already mentioned.
http://www.rx7store.net/index.asp?Pa...ROD&ProdID=791
BTW, a boost controller can raise boost, but can't lower it.
#7
so what exactly is a meagsquirt? Is it pretty much like a SAFC? Also, how well will a boost controller word with the sequentials? will it help prevent a boost spike, and what range can I control the boost, Low to High (ie 4lbs - 12lbs). Thanks
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#10
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: MIAMI,FL
i dont see the year 7 you have but if you have a S4 digital tuning has a pretty good chip to upgrade your stock ecu if you do not want to spend allot of money. chip is called the R-tek 1.7 go to www.digitaltuning.com
lots of s4 guys here use this chip .
lots of s4 guys here use this chip .
#11
I think the problem with the megasquirt is that there is a lack of ignition control. At least for our Rotaries. That and I have not seen a lot of megasquirts of FD's? Is that just me, or is the FD its is harder to user a megasquirt? I read up a bit on there site, and it did catch my interest, but so far (maybe I haven't read enough into it yet) I have not seen an easy ignition control solution, please tell me if I am wrong.
#12
I'm doing the megasquirt right now, with wideband O2 sensor.
And I will make it handle ignition, using a modified CAS and a GM HEI unit ($23)
Writeup (with lots of pictures) on the way.
And I will make it handle ignition, using a modified CAS and a GM HEI unit ($23)
Writeup (with lots of pictures) on the way.
#15
you could plumb in a pop off valve set at 8 or 10 psi so that the engine will never exceed that pressure.
I love how people do things half-assed and backwards and can't figure out why things break. "hear me now and listen to me later" little Arnold for ya...
I love how people do things half-assed and backwards and can't figure out why things break. "hear me now and listen to me later" little Arnold for ya...
#17
Originally Posted by Turbo 3
you could plumb in a pop off valve set at 8 or 10 psi so that the engine will never exceed that pressure.
-Max
Last edited by maxcooper; 03-17-05 at 06:14 AM.
#18
Originally Posted by guitaraholic2004
Does anyone have any idea about when the UltraMegaSquirt is going to be out. I heard it can do the trailing spark, but not sure when its going to be out
#20
Sorry, should have said POV in combination with a properly set spring rate BOV...
Originally Posted by maxcooper
I know you're just kidding around, but that approach might overspin and severely shorten the life of your turbo(s). Pop-off valves are a failsafe (or boost-limit rules enforcement) device rather than a workable boost control strategy.
-Max
-Max
#25
GM HEI? Huh? Trailing control of a stock trailing coil assembly with its required 'trigger' and 'select' signals is almost out. You can also try out the newer codes that allow for an unmodified CAS.
The thing I meant to say earlier about my setup is that there is no need for EDIS and all its paraphernalia these days. My 20B has the option of running as if it had an EDIS6 (no split) or leading only (with 0° and 180° sparks per rotor face @ 120° per rotor or one ignition event every 60°) with just a simple swap of a stock CAS to a modded one and some minor changes in the tuning software. Either way, it's more flexible than EDIS and easier to set up; no need to perfectly center a crank pulley and all that. Also no need for ford parts under the hood.
The thing I meant to say earlier about my setup is that there is no need for EDIS and all its paraphernalia these days. My 20B has the option of running as if it had an EDIS6 (no split) or leading only (with 0° and 180° sparks per rotor face @ 120° per rotor or one ignition event every 60°) with just a simple swap of a stock CAS to a modded one and some minor changes in the tuning software. Either way, it's more flexible than EDIS and easier to set up; no need to perfectly center a crank pulley and all that. Also no need for ford parts under the hood.