Speaking of Ignition break up, I too exihibited too at 5000rpm. I can't say I replaced my plugs prior to dynoing but I speculate that the Crane Cams Hi-6 played a role In It. I know of a FD owner who experienced Ignition break up aswell running the CDI box. Perhaps a correlation? Note, I left the rev limiter on zero on both dials, on the side of the CDI box.

 

Well, maybe I'll pick up a MSD6A. I used to have one but I never noticed a difference. At autoX a year ago I popped the hood and found one of the wires came off. I was probably driving around for a couple weeks without it and never noticed, and when I put it back on I didn't notice either. I guess smoothing out the curve would raise it about 5hp?, and the seat-of-the-pants dyno isn't that accurate.

Hopefully next time I post it will be of two more dyno sheets.

 

I'm running a HI-6 in my 2nd gen, and soon to be in my 3rd gen. No ignition problems for me. Infact, I've noticed that the car run fine with plugs that are way, way out of clearances. I love my Hi-6. CJ

 

I run the Hi-6 with no problems aswell, except that basing It on a dyno graph, Igition break up occurs In higher rpms i.e 5500 and up. Of a FD owner I know, he took It off b'c of this!

 

Ok, I'm confused. Ted says to install a CDI (capacitive discharge ignition) to prevent the ignition breakup I have in the upper range. You guys (silverrotor, pp13bnos) are telling me that your HI-6 causes breakup? Or am I not reading this correctly? Why would you install a CDI if it causes problems?

Help me out here.

BTW a F-1 car did 19,000 RPMs for the first time last weekend. I want his ignition system.

 

I guess, on my part, I should elaborate. With the CDI Box i.e Crane Cams Ignition Box It Is undoubtly taxing your Ignition System more than stock, or atleast making It work harder. Agreed? With the above mentioned, It would only make sense to have your Ignition System OPTIMIZED at all times, especially come dyno or track time. This would Include new plugs and wires (or just hi-performance ones).

A valid point that RETed made was to dyno with NEW plugs thus ensuring optimal Ignition levels. I can't say I have done this however. Perhaps myself and others I know have these speculations due to Inadequate Igniting due to partially worn plugs.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by silverrotor
[B]I guess, on my part, I should elaborate. With the CDI Box i.e Crane Cams Ignition Box It Is undoubtly taxing your Ignition System more than stock, or atleast making It work harder. Agreed? With the above mentioned, It would only make sense to have your Ignition System OPTIMIZED at all times, especially come dyno or track time. This would Include new plugs and wires (or just hi-performance ones).

A valid point that RETed made was to dyno with NEW plugs thus ensuring optimal Ignition levels. As mentioned above, I can't say I have done this however. Perhaps myself and others I know have these speculations due to Inadequate Igniting due to partially worn plugs. Atleast next time, when I dyno my new mods, no cat, ported Manifolds, adding Walbro Hi-Flow Fuel Pump (255) and S-AFC I will DEFINETLY add new plugs to my FC and will state If Ignition break up Is occurring.

 

My Hi-6 does'nt cause ignition break up problems up top. Mine works fine.

On a side note, I have a buddy in rotary power northwest, who had a dieing coil, that made the car run like garbage up top...even with a cdi box. Perhaps thats silverrotors problem.

I love my Hi-6, and would only sell it to get a HKS twin power....but thats not important right now....

CJ

 

I have no experience with dying Coil Packs. They have been resistance checked and all four are Igniting. Seeing how the HI-6 Is getting a hi appraise, It's time I shoot It down with an experience I had with this CDI Box.

A little after a year had passed and I found my car wouldn't start. Doing some trouble shooting, I later found that the HI-6 was DEAD. After removing It, my car fired right up. I called Crane Cams (even after warranty expired) and they gladly sent me a new one. It has been yet another year that has passed and I have had no problems.

I have heard that the HI-6 Is "not compatible" with Rotary engines but I don't think there Is any truth to that. I just wanted to let you guys know my experiences with this box so far...

 

This is exactly what happened with my car on the dyno. My stock coil was on its way out. The MSD 6A was making it worse on the top end. On the dyno, I picked up HP when I removed the MSD...I picked up more HP when I replaced the leading coil with a different unit.

So now I removed the stock leading coil pack and replaced it with two MSD Blaster coils. I re-attached my MSD 6A to the blaster coils and I also bought new 10mm Magnacore plug wires.

My butt dyno tells me that I've gotten rid of my upper end ignition break-up. The power feels a lot smoother between 6000 and 8000 RPM.

I still have to get some 550 injectors for my secondaries and replace my 4 year old cat...Then I'll be back to the dyno for more tuning.

 

Wozzom///FWITW, What Is the part # for the MSD Blaster coils? I wanna know for reference.

 

wozzom, I'm telling you man, you don't need larger injectors! I'm putting down ~170rwhp on stock injectors leaned out around %25! CJ

 

MSD-8202

I bought mine from Summit Racing for $28 each.

I'll have to take a picture of how I mounted them...You're gonna love it!

 

Thanks for the input but every car is different. When my car was on the dyno, I was leaning out around 7000 RPM. We had my AFC all the way up to +15 with no effect.

FYI: My injectors are all in top shape. They were all cleaned and blue printed less than 10 months ago. My fuel filters (Including the one in the fuel tank) are less than 3 months old. My fuel pump is original...I might have to look there.

 

I look forward to your pics on your setup. I am ready to Install my Walbro Fuel Pump 255 ltr/hr high which I'll tone down with I tune down with my S-AFC. Although repeatedly advised not to get It, I figured I'll get It anyway knowing I can tone It down If necessary. I got It at a price that couldn't be beat at www.autoperformanceengineering.com. It seems that prices went up a hare.

 

Hey Zach it was 19050rpm's!

 

I just checked out. Still waiting on details.

 

Me too. MSD6A CDI & 2 blaster coils on the way!

You guys are a bad influence. Although I did ask for advice...

 

I knew we would get a reply out of you soon enough.

I'm Interested In this aswell but I don't know how It will correspond with my Crane Cams Ignition Box hooked up to the Leading Coil.

 

Hey I saw that race too (qualifying)...didn't know we had any other F1 fans here. :-)

 

My stuff came in yesterday. One of the coils has a little bit of oil on it. Any idea if I can still use it? I think its just the top that has a small leak.
Also, Jeff, I'm looking forward to seeing your setup. Are you supposed to use two CDIs for each coil, or can I just split the wire to the two of them? There are two wires from the box (+ & -), and four connections to be made (+ & - for each coil). If you split the wire, did you run them parrallel or in series?
After this is done I'm going back to the dyno, I promise. No more talk.

 

I'm Intersted to see the set up too. Why don't you PM and ask to respond to your question seeing how you have the Coils In front of you. Just a thought.

 

Zach - the coils must be in parallel so that they both receive the triggering signal and charge voltage at the same time. Split your MSD + and - wires into two pairs to connect to the coils. FWIW, the MSD tech I talked to said the 6A box could probably drive 10 coils.........
I mounted both my blaster coils where the stock one used to be, and moved the ignitor box up on the fender toward the strut top (with the original coil removed and the 'towers' cut off). My MSD is in front of the air intake snorkle. Wish I had a scanner - a picture being worth........

Curtis
'86 GXL autox'r

 

Thanks Curtis. That takes care of everything. Ok, no more posting until I have a dyno sheet THIS time.

 

And finally, results. I'm not impressed. Let me know what you think. The first graph is the actual HP & torque and the second is corrected for air temperature.
Max Power: 137.4 Max Torque: 116.6