How to clean rotor & housing?
#52
inittab. It's called cleaning them back to factory specs. You know, kinda like the way a fresh rebuild should look like. Who cares If I don't the see the Rotors again. Atleast I know they looked like that before I turn(ed) the key. You know what I mean jellybean.
RETed. I can't speak of the coating you make mention of. However, I'm sure It was accounted for, or equivalant, when the Motor was put back together.
Are you putting this coating on the rebuilds down there? Is anyone putting this coating on? What Is expected with the presence/abscence of this coating on the Rotors?
RETed. I can't speak of the coating you make mention of. However, I'm sure It was accounted for, or equivalant, when the Motor was put back together.
Are you putting this coating on the rebuilds down there? Is anyone putting this coating on? What Is expected with the presence/abscence of this coating on the Rotors?
#53
Thread Starter
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
ok i stripped a rotor today and "tried" cleaning it with brake cleaner and varsol.....dint work.....tomorrow im gonna try Ted's drano method....and im gonna strip the next one and try scalliwag and the others method....once im done i'll take pics and u guys can decide what u like better! it was my first time taking the springs/seals off a rotor today and it gave me the utmost pleasure when i figured out how to take that stuff out on my own without asking anyone....but for anyone new trying a rebuild im gonna give u a few hints (not sayin im a pro or anything) to take the corner seals off....ones the apex seal is off take the pointy edge of the apex seal and put it in the groove at an angle....next tap it slightly with a side cutter or anything and watch the corner sela come out with ease....as for the side seals....when trying to remove them they usually break off.....now if u have a piece stuck in the middle broken u ahve 2 options....u can take a broken piece and slide it in and tap on it softly and watch it move all the way towards the corner seal and from there u can pull it out with ur fingers....your other option is....if ur replacing the side spring then using a pick get one end of the spring slightly out grab it with a needle nose pliers and pull upwards and the side seal should come out....i don't like this method too much tho.
later,
Mr. BiG G
later,
Mr. BiG G
#54
Thread Starter
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
change in plan....i decided to go with purple power vs drano for the 2 rotors i have.....the next time i get a set of rotors....it'll be simple/mean green vs the varsol tank and then chem dip/carb cleaner vs WD-40
later,
G
later,
G
#55
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Originally posted by Mr BiG G
change in plan....i decided to go with purple power vs drano for the 2 rotors i have.....the next time i get a set of rotors....it'll be simple/mean green vs the varsol tank and then chem dip/carb cleaner vs WD-40
later,
G
change in plan....i decided to go with purple power vs drano for the 2 rotors i have.....the next time i get a set of rotors....it'll be simple/mean green vs the varsol tank and then chem dip/carb cleaner vs WD-40
later,
G
#56
Originally posted by silverrotor
Are you putting this coating on the rebuilds down there? Is anyone putting this coating on? What Is expected with the presence/abscence of this coating on the Rotors?
Are you putting this coating on the rebuilds down there? Is anyone putting this coating on? What Is expected with the presence/abscence of this coating on the Rotors?
-Ted
#59
The coating on the rotor face is not important on the rotor faces, if it were so, do you think the FSM would also suggest that you use emery cloth to clean them, probably not...The picture of the rotor face in the FSM is depicting carbon buildup, not the coating, the next picture is of the coating in the side seal area.
Considering the clearance machining knightsports has pioneered in the sideseal area, I would go as far to say its not 100% critical in the side seal area...The Fsm does not say what the purpose of the coating is, I do suspect that its there to stop rust from forming when the engine is not started for along time, or the rotor sits on the shelf for in the parts warehouse, from what I saw in Japan, anything thats iron based and uncoated, starts to rust in seconds....85% RH will do that...
Considering the clearance machining knightsports has pioneered in the sideseal area, I would go as far to say its not 100% critical in the side seal area...The Fsm does not say what the purpose of the coating is, I do suspect that its there to stop rust from forming when the engine is not started for along time, or the rotor sits on the shelf for in the parts warehouse, from what I saw in Japan, anything thats iron based and uncoated, starts to rust in seconds....85% RH will do that...
#60
Thread Starter
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
does anyone know whats the reasion for this coating? like what it does and what the advantages of having it are.....i dint get a chance to do the above mentioned today....got busy at work....but thats a good question does anyone know where i can get purple power in canada....img onna check out the hoe depot tomorrow and if i dont find it there then canadian tire and if not there then im gonna call napa.....thats the only three places that i think might have it....
#61
Originally posted by inittab
Wouldn't a wire-wheel remove this so called coating?
Wouldn't a wire-wheel remove this so called coating?
-Ted
#62
as far as i know this soft coating is on some rotors
and not others, i know for sure that when i was looking
at the new RENESIS a friend had apart this soft coating
was not on the rotors.
the rotors out of my 3 20b have it but the replacement
rotor that i have does not have the coating.
and it was only ever on the sides above the side seal.
I used to use carb dip to clean rotors and found that
carb dip took off all the carbon and made the rotors
look nice and clean, it even cleaned off the soft material.
matt
and not others, i know for sure that when i was looking
at the new RENESIS a friend had apart this soft coating
was not on the rotors.
the rotors out of my 3 20b have it but the replacement
rotor that i have does not have the coating.
and it was only ever on the sides above the side seal.
I used to use carb dip to clean rotors and found that
carb dip took off all the carbon and made the rotors
look nice and clean, it even cleaned off the soft material.
matt
#63
Thread Starter
I'll Apex YOUR Seal
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada
what else would u use ted? im gonna use a toothbrush and wen ever i get a chance to visit the home depot im gonna see what kind of wire brushes they have in the shape of a toothbrush
#65
From what I remember, Modena Engineering here in Australia did alot of testing in terms of the finish of the metal and its wear characteristics. As a result, most of their parts are isotropically finished - for those of you who arnet familiar with this process, isotropic finishing removes micro peaks and minute irregularities along with the top few microns of surface metal, giving the smoothest possible surface.
They found not only did wear decrease but even engine and gearbox oil temperature decreased by ~7 degrees C
The end result looks like the surface was chome plated - its that good.
They found not only did wear decrease but even engine and gearbox oil temperature decreased by ~7 degrees C
The end result looks like the surface was chome plated - its that good.
#67
Here's how I do it:
I use a Pep Boys bucket and a gallon-sized jug of either Zep Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser or Coastal Super Power Clean (purple stuff). Use of rubber gloves is mandatory as this stuff will begin to eat your skin.
Before dunking...
After dunking, not even in overnight, for about an hour and using a brass brush
Warning - This is bad for the rotor bearings. I recommend not doing this if you have no means to remove your bearings and are planning on re-using them.
B
I use a Pep Boys bucket and a gallon-sized jug of either Zep Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser or Coastal Super Power Clean (purple stuff). Use of rubber gloves is mandatory as this stuff will begin to eat your skin.
Before dunking...
After dunking, not even in overnight, for about an hour and using a brass brush
Warning - This is bad for the rotor bearings. I recommend not doing this if you have no means to remove your bearings and are planning on re-using them.
B
#70
I do not know his full cleaning techniques but I do know that Paul Yaw polishes his rotors. After seeing photos of them on this website I sent him an email asking how he got his rotors so clean. This was months ago I can't find his email reply but I remember he said that they were polished.
#72
Originally posted by CarmonColvin
I do not know his full cleaning techniques but I do know that Paul Yaw polishes his rotors. After seeing photos of them on this website I sent him an email asking how he got his rotors so clean. This was months ago I can't find his email reply but I remember he said that they were polished.
I do not know his full cleaning techniques but I do know that Paul Yaw polishes his rotors. After seeing photos of them on this website I sent him an email asking how he got his rotors so clean. This was months ago I can't find his email reply but I remember he said that they were polished.
#73
Originally posted by inittab
Find that email dammit!
Find that email dammit!
I think polishing to mirror finish on these things is a very good idea. I believe it helps prevent hotspots from carbon buildup later in life.
B
#74
For straight-up polishing techniques go to www.caswellplating.com They have an excellent write-up and the sell all the polishing tools and compounds
Getting them clean enough to polish was the bigger problem to me.
Paul Yaw is pretty helpful and if it is something he does, I would definately like to know about it
Getting them clean enough to polish was the bigger problem to me.
Paul Yaw is pretty helpful and if it is something he does, I would definately like to know about it