http://i11.ebayimg.com/03/i/00/bf/9d/96_3.JPG

 

Funny how you are partial In your answers. Leave'me hangin.

Ya! Booo for not telling me.

 

Isint oven cleaner similar to draino? IIRC it has sodium hydroxide also. Easy to spray on and rinse off. I'll have to try that, thanks. Scali, I have one of those roloc discs (it was laying around at work). Havent used it yet though. Now I gota go find something to shine up.

 

I used a different brush, that is easy to use and doesn't look as hard but that should work.

 

Something like this but a fine brush .

http://www.cornerhardware.com/item_2...ire-Brush.html

 

ok....that roloc brush....what tool do u put it on? (sorry im a noobie)

 

ok....now we got the rotor combustion faces cleaned....wat do u use for the side faces? u can't use sumtin heavy duty to clean it cuz of the oil retention stuff ted talked about....

 

When you say machine, what do you mean by that? I am not a fan of 3mm milling, however clearance machining can be done on the rotor sides and face. The lightened rotors make a noticeable difference in the way a motor revs..
I soak it all in varsol, the carbon basically dissolves in it..
In Japan, I saw one guy using tubs of drycleaning fluid or "perc" as its called, it worked pretty good to, but the fumes were killer....Max

 

Here is my take and nobody should take offense to this because I understand the rational and my age will show here a bit.
A lot of people especially the younger ones are very secretive when they learn a trick or make something cool. Some tricks of the trade and maybe things that fall under an invention type category and cost a fair chunk of change and will have a direct impact on your income at some point should be guarded information.
But let me point out that if you read some of the old Hot Rod magazine "How-to's" or watch Monster Garage or whatever you will learn tons of tricks from some incredibly talented people.
You can go to many people web sites that have all sorts of tips and tricks.

I have posted "how-to's" on this forum complete with pictorials on building peripheral port housings using a lathe and a holesaw. There's the infamous "impact driven bearing presses" (Brian Cain loves his new toy there )I just posted enough pics of a mini-bead roller I made so that anyone with a little ambition and a lathe could make one on their own.
I think most people like Carl that have read and partipated with input into some of these threads would tell you I like helping out. Ask Steve and Rich at Gotham Racing
The point of this long drawn out post is that is that there is a lot less sweat off your *** than you may think to try to help people out. I don't think I lost any money in the process and people here have paid me to make things for them and PM'ed me when an idea helped them out. That is pretty cool and you can only make friends in the process.
Of course this does not apply to porting secrets
I don't know about the rest of you guys but I am here for the fun of it

 

I understand what you are saying. I didn't just learn the trick over night my dad has been doing it for years. I have help a lot of people since I came on this forum with tons of pm’s about 20b swaps. I told them pretty much everything and where to get the stuff. The only thing I don't tell people is, anything to do with inside of an engine. If you really want your rotors that clean bring them to me I am not going to make a business out of $20. And another reason is, if they **** something up in the engine than they are going to say I told them to do it. Than i'm the one with a bad name. Not everyone will do it, but there are some people like that.

 

Yeah but there will always be idiots. But most of the time they have a reputation for being an idiot so people don't put much interest in what they say anyway.
Your overall reputation will always survive against that kind of ****.
But this is all just a philosophy of mine anyway. Just an old school mentality to give everybody to consider.
I think this may be a little more difference in generations than anything as far as the overall mentalities. It's not so much a right or wrong thing.

 

Tony thats not the reason i didn't want to tell you. I didn't know who you would give the info to.

 

Not even worth mentioning. I admit to approaching you with that question In a childlike manner due to the overwhelming before and after comparision shot. Given this, I could see how your approach would ellicit such a response. Seeing how this question Is coming back again, I respect that I still don't even know how you got my Rotors so freaken clean.

Scalliwag, I don't think this scenario suggests a transgeneration gap on how the old schoolers did It and how the "new" generation does It now. My take on this Is that Can-Saf Performance Is capable of making trophies out of Rotors and this alone, suggests excellence that Is better left unanswered, respectively. Hence, a characteristic of their trademark. No opposition here, just my take.

 

is Purple Power safe to clean rotors with? I put some in a spray bottle and sprayed and brushed them and it worked very good considering how much crap was on my rotors. I rinsed them with water afterwards and used my air compressor to blow dry them. Is it ok for me to keep using this?

 

never heard of purple power.....we probably dont get that here in canada....should be safe if it's ok

 

Thats what I use, never hurt anything, but after reading this thread, Im gonna try some of this other stuff. The only problem I know of with "purple power" ,"Castrol super clean", etc. is that they are corrosive to aluminum. So if you use it on aluminum, dont leave it on for days on end, and rinse it REALLY well. Of course thats probably good to do no matter what material you are cleaning.

 

Another thing I remember reading somewhere a long time ago was when using caustic cleaners is that if you rinse the parts in water with baking soda mixed in it it will neautralize the caustic.
Whatever you are using is either acidic or caustic if it munches out on metal. Anytime you hear talk about neutralizing acids, like the stomach commercials they are talking about chilling out the acids power. The same thing applies to caustics. So the trick is to get back to a neutral Ph level.
So there I have just enough on that to be dangerous
I do know for people that clean their concrete with muriatic acid (diluted with water or you are in serious trouble) that if you do not use a neautralizer just just rinse with straight water that over time of doing that the concrete will break down because the concrete is porous and the acid penetrates into it.
That is why I don't know that this would not be a waste of time on metal parts because casted metals are the only ones with very much porousity and even that is not near as porous as concrete.
But I guess it would give you piece of mind to give it a soda bath knowing that if there is any cleaner still lurking it has been nuked.

 

I'm in the Czech Republic right now, trying to rebuild 6 motors. We have tried several different automotive type cleaners, but none worked very well. I even tried soaking in gasoline for a week, but that didn't work too well against caked on carbon. About the only thing readily available that worked semi-decently is WD-40; yes, they sell WD-40 over here. I would KILL for a gallon of ChemDip. We started to look at some of the industrial cleaners only available to businesses. We came across a product that worked remarkably well - I got the contents translated to sodium hydroxide and sodium chlorate. I know what sodium hydroxide is and what it does - I took 2 semester of oragnic chem, so I'm not stupid. That sample of cleaner was only available in 10 liter minimum order at $10USD per liter. That meant to clean other parts, we'd need to spend a minimum of $100USD - the owners felt it wasn't reasonable. I knew that sodium hydroxide was also being used a drain cleaner, so we hunted for drain cleaners in the local stores. This worked well enough that spending $1 per liter of drain cleaner to clean each engine was economical enough that everyone is satisfied. Now, I understand your worries about "residual" cleaner in the parts. The parts are flushed with a Simple Green solution diluted in water and then washed again with hot water. This should be enough cleaning to get rid of most of the caustic cleaner. The engines are being broken in, and oil changes are mandatory after 1000km (620 miles). I think after the initial oil change, there should be no doubt that all the caustic cleaner is removed. I posted this to help someone who has no other options. If I were back in Hawaii, it would've been ChemDip or carberator cleaner liquid in a gallon can. Due to the extreme circumstances, I had to look else where. I wasn't about to waste my time and muscles to get all the carbon off the internal parts with inferior cleaning products. I find this option satisfactory for it's use. Hell, I'll save a lot of money buying Drano instead of ChemDip on my future engine cleanings...


-Ted

 

is simple green a degreaser? Sorry im very new on chemicals. What about something like a thinner ? Im sorry if someone has already asked/answered this, i kinda glanced at some of the post.
Whats do you clean the surface of the housings with(chromemoly part)??

 

Yeah, I slot Simple Green as a water-based degreaser. It doesn't work on caked on carbon on the rotors very well, even when soaking overnight.

We've tried: gasoline, "technical benzine" (white/blazo gas?), "perchloroethelyne" (which smells oddly like Brakleen, but doesn't work very well on caked on carbon on rotors), something that smells like lighter fluid, WD-40, and several "engine cleaners". Oddly enough, the WD-40 worked the best out of that bunch.

The stuff on the rotor housings comes off pretty easily. Probably because it's a lot less thicker than the stuff on the rotor surfaces.

-Ted

 

purple power is great for caked on carbon, I put both of my rotors in a bucket and filled it with purple power. before the cleaning my rotors were COMPLETELY covered in carbon deposits. i let them soak over night, and then the next morning i took them out brushed em for a minute or 2 and sprayed them off. 98% of the carbon crap was GONE

 

Isn't this just *bling* *bling* showmanship? Seriously, why is it such a good thing to have the rotors that shiny and clean? Before long they'll look like crap and you won't even see them.

 

ahahaha.....very tru inittab

 

clean and shiny like that isn't good, IMO. Mazda put a coating on the rotors, and you just wiped all of that off.


-Ted

 

Ted is the coating on the rotor face or on the side face?