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I'm not positive on all of this but hopefully someone will come along and correct me

• A turbo kit could be either a turbo upgrade with most of the parts like piping, BOV (blow out valve) and other pieces, or a complete add on to turn an N/A engine (Natural Aspiration, just uses and air filter and does not have forced induction. Forced Induction is a supercharger or Turbocharger) into a TurboCharged engine. Which should include piping, new intake manifold possibly, intercooler, BOV, Wastegate and Turbo.
  
• A boost controller or turbo controller, controls the amount of airflow that gets to the turbo. Which in turn controls how much boost your turbo produces. It can also change how much boost you can produce at different RPMs on some models
  
• No idea on how much HP gain from new mufflers and pipes and whatnot
  
• Not sure but I'd say get a downpipe or high flow cat to let more air flow, and reduce heat in your engine bay, also get a new ECU/upgraded ECU soon to accomodate mods and add more fuel, I dunno what else. There are a bunch of sites that have a list. I'll look for one.
  
• Turbo boost is how much air your turbo pushs into the intake of your engine. It's measured in boost (PSI, lbs, #) and is pounds per square inch. And also measured in bars. 14PSI in one bar.

Here is a good site for 3rd gen RX-7s. It's called Lightning in a World of Thunder.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/

welcome to the forums



*edit* and thanks to crashunit for helping me out on some stuff i was confused about

 

Replacing just the cat-back, you could expect 2-5 more HP.

I would say the first things to do would be:

1. Downpipe

2. Boost Gauge

3. AST Replacement

These would be a good start to make the car have a longer life. After that, you could begin your performance mods.

 

1) Replace the plastic OEM AST (Original Equipment Mfg Air Separator Tank) with an Aluminum one from Pettit or the RX-7 Store, $139-$150. If your OEM AST blows, you loose coolant real quick and you could loose your engine. By the way, the AST removes the air bubbles from the coolant and thus lowers the temp so it can cool the engine better.

2) Install a Boost Gauge and a Turbo Timer (about $125 each). You can't know what your mods are doing if you can't see the boost patterns. The TT allows the oil to continue to circulate and cool the turbos after a run. Your engine continues to run, but you can remove the key, lock & walk away....pretty cool. I mounted mine on the steering column.

3) Catback Exhaust $300-600, increase 10-30 HP, plus adds a better sound.


4) Cold air intake.....$100-$300...many different types, so be sure you are in fact doing what you intended....increase cold air inflow. Increase 10-20 HP

5) Replace all vacuum lines with silicone lines....By now your rubber vacuum lines are hard as rocks...from the engine heat.
Kits are available from $150, or let your rotorhead mechanic do it cause he knows what he's doing.
6) Increase Intercooler & radiator sizes w/aftermarket units.

Good Luck and have fun!

 

Hey guy, try going to this site:

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/

It should have just about all the answers you are looking for...

 

BOV lets air out of the intake pipe from your turbo if you are making more than needed.
Wastegate does the same on the exhaust side of your turbo.

A turbo works by routing your exhaust straight from the engine, to a turbine, where it spins the turbine, and then exits to your normal exhaust pipes, this turbine spins another turbine, which sucks in air from the outside through an air filter and then blows it into your engine intake. Basically the exhaust powers the turbine which forces air into your engine. A Supercharger is the same except it is belt driven and has nothing to do with exhaust. Supercharger can get full boost faster, but a turbo can produce higher boost and go to higher RPMs, also a turbo uses your wasted exhaust instead of stealing a few HP from your engine.

It keeps it constantly flowing. It gradually changes when needed.

Electronic Computer Unit or something. Basically your cars computer

Boost Gauge is a little round guage, erm needle that turns and shows how many bars/lbs of boost you are using. http://www.rxecret7.com./19310.html theres an example

Your boost controller can change your boost patterns, you can program them to have different boost at different RPMs and whatnot. Also your ECU has something to do with boost level.

Yes you can buy full exhausts

 

Downpipe replaces the "Pre-Cat", not the "Main Cat".

I don't know if that system will pass emissions or not, but Bonez makes a replacement system that is EPA legal (Downpipe and Hi-Flo Cat):

http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalog.cgi?cat=4&part=1

Just add your RB Cat-Back to it...

 

Well, not ANY cat-back. There are some that are not street legal, but 95% of the ones that you will see will be just fine.

As far as an ECU, I would get a pre-programmed one like the Pettit or M2 chips:

http://www.pettitracing.com/sections/Performance.html

The reason is, if you get one of the others that you can tune.. if you don't know what you're doing, you'll ruin the engine, quickly.

 

The Pettit ECU is already pre-programmed. You just replace your chip with the Pettit one.

As far as an exhaust system install, I've heard (didn't do my myself) that the hard part is the downpipe. I would say, unless you have some extra cash to spend in case of tearing up something really bad, you might want someone else to do the installs for you since you sound kind of green to these types of cars.

 

The Pettit and M2 upgrades are chip upgrades, not the entire computer. So you just pull out the stock chip and replace it with a reprogrammed chip. Haltech and some others make units that replace the entire computer.

I don't know about M2, but with Pettit, it's $699 to program a chip, if you supply the chip. If you don't want to send your chip to be reprogrammed, it's an extra $50 for a chip.

So, you would have 2 choices:

1. Pull out your ECU chip and have it reprogrammed for about $700.

2. Buy a new blank chip for $50 and have it programmed for $700 giving you a modified and a un-modified chip at your disposal.

 

If you bought an entire unit, you would either need a dyno to program the unit or purchase MAPs to program the unit.

Just depends on what type of ECU replacment you get as to how it needs to be programmed. I have talked to some people that have built 3rd Gen engines and work on them for people and the ones they helped install a programmable ECU replacement killed their engines. The ones that just did the chip replacement (lile M2 or Pettit) are still running.

As far as modifying, the reason you modify the chip or ECU is when you open up the car to allow more airflow (adding intake and exhaust systems), the engine will need more fuel but the stock ECU won't give it anymore since it's not programmed to. This can cause your car to run very lean, then lead to detonation, and eventually a new engine (or rebuild time).

If you got an FD, added a Downpipe, replaced the AST and put in a boost gauge... you would be fine not replacing the stock ECU at that point. That would bet the best way to start. After that, if you plan on adding more modifcations to the car that have to do with the engine/intake/exhaust, you'll need to think hard about upgrading the ECU.

Personally, if you did those mods, the next thing I would do would be to upgrade the suspension springs, which of course wouldn't need to to change anything on the ECU for...

Expensive? You can purchase used chips, there is a Pettit chip (limited to 14.7 PSI) in the For Sale section here for $550 shipped (that would save you $200).

If you purchase a FD, do the realibility modifications first. Keep in mind, it's a sports car... Nothing on a sports car is cheap. If you don't have a lot of money, then an FD is not for you. I can be a VERY expensive car to keep running.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mahjik

If you purchase a FD, do the realibility modifications first. Keep in mind, it's a sports car... Nothing on a sports car is cheap. If you don't have a lot of money, then an FD is not for you. I can be a VERY expensive car to keep running.


Thats why I have an FC

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Ryde _Or_Die

Quote:

Originally posted by Mahjik

If you purchase a FD, do the realibility modifications first. Keep in mind, it's a sports car... Nothing on a sports car is cheap. If you don't have a lot of money, then an FD is not for you. I can be a VERY expensive car to keep running.


Thats why I have an FC

GIMME MONEY!@!@ lol

 

hey guys, i got some questions.

first....how do you install a strut tower brace?? i heard that you have to remove all the wheels, remove the front braking system, take apart the entire front suspension, then install the tower bar and put everything back together and balance your wheels. is this correct?? some people say that you do not have to balance your wheels since the strut tower support knuckles are in the back of the car. is this true?

also, i always see "air fresheners" in automotive supply stores. how much hp do they add?? is the freshining of the intake air that efficient to the engine to notice a difference?? will an air intake freshener make my car more reliable?? also, ive heard about a company called Kay and En, do they make quality air fresheners??

last question.....how many apex seals can i have?? i have read about people getting 2 seals and some people getting 3. ive seen debates on how many is better. is more better?? can i benifit from getting 4 or 5 apex seals?? if i run 5 apex seals, will my car produce less harmfull emmisions to the enviornment??

thank you.

 

Ok JoeD,

You have WAY too much free time on your hands..

 

*brushs JoeD out of forum with broom*
OUT YOU WHIPPERSNAPPER