http://www.performancetestedseals.com/ what u guy thinks?

 

Ouch, $1000 U.S. for a set of seals for a 2 rotor.

RX7specialties in canada makes seals that they put their guarantee on... stating they will not break. They say the engine internals will give before the seals do.

 

Ummmm, yeah....................
Holy ****!!!! they are f-ing expensive!!!! I could buy a used car for the cost of those apex seals!!! You can count me COMPLETELY OUT!!!

 

They had better work, they cost a boat load. They appear to have a life time guarantee.

I personally want the front fender exhaust, fireball and all that would be great for dealing with those Honda boys.

 

thinking about u wont ever need to replace the damn weak oem seal

 

Let me see those things last 100k miles on 28psi of boost.

 

Let me see any rotary last 100k miles with 28 pounds of boost.

 

Sweet. I'm putting a 200 shot on my car!

 

For the amount of money i spent on shitty hurley apex seals and rebuilds back in 2001-2002 I could have bought multiple sets of these seals.....

 

lol^

 

What good are they if they make the seals out of such a hard material that they chatter at high rpm and rip through housings in short order?

I honestly fail to see what's wrong with OEM seals.

 

weren't those like $600 a few months ago?

 

my bad, i was thinking about these:

http://www.southcoastrotary.com.au/scrseals.htm

 

I'll just settle for my usual 2-piece RA 2mm apex seals. No need for having such an extravagent set of apex seals unless you're drag racing and pushing the ultimate limit of the 13B. Just my opinion.

 

In the link in the first post they claim these seals do not damage or wear the housings.

Sounds almost too good to be true. Has anyone tried these? I'm tempted to try them in my next project.

 

http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...ht=pts&start=0

 

There is a very similar seal available from South Coast Rotarys for the same price as stock mazda seals. The only difference between these and PTS seals is the SCR seals don't warp when they get to hot e.g lean out or not enough premix.

 

link?

 

The problem isn't the apex seals.. the problem is the gas.

B

 

Geez rich, wanna make your sig a bit bigger?

 

They should give a guarantee to have no compression after a small amount of running in "non ideal conditions" :P

I got a phone call this morning from a guy running SCR seals that has little compression after very little work (car wont start hot !), they are too soft and they wear badly. One customer I supplied just got the National untubbed record running 8.29sec @ 161mph and backed it up ! Not bad for a back yard effort with f*ck all runs under the belt

^ Will pass on contact details for anyone in doubt of above

When you use a premium product you get results, even if your a nobody, you dont need hype to sell a product, just straight up quality and engineering credability. I always said if your worried about breaking seals and want unbreakable ones you will end up with very soft shitty product.

NRS ceramics all the way, they are so good shops dont wont to tell you about them

PM me and I will sell you them at a reasonable price

 

No **** captain, wtf?

 

Unbreakable seals dont make the power and they dont give you life, and now they are proven to not give you the same performance as a properly engineered high technology product.

IMO Mazda factory use silicone nitride (ceramics) for a reason because they are the best, NOT because they are idiot proof ! Dont buy a product cause it is stupid resistant

Lots of my biggest customers here have switched from stupid resistant products to quality products. For a majority of you street based guys and even racers there is nothing wrong with the OEM seal, unlike stupid break proof versions they will be durable and make more power than any of you can imagine. If you have money the ONLY logical step up is either Ianetti or NRS ceramics.

Buy what you like, though its good to learn from others mistakes Its free advice

 

you forgot the 'do'

 

Good analogy I can give you is its a bit like a NITRO RC motor.

Running a Alu piston (no rings!) in a chrome bore, feed it enough oil and cool methanol and it will survive o.k.

Dont run enough oil or get it hot and watch out ! with stupid amounts of oil and rich AFR's (to carry the big amounts of oil needed as its fixed to AFR) + running a heat tollerant fuel like meth lets **** products shine (for a little while).

Run it like a normal engine at near correct tunes (fuel type, AFR, and oil ratio's etc) and watch the comp vanish before your eye's .............. One of my big customers swithed wholesale for just the above reasons.

If you tune for ultimate performance you will get best track results, if your goverened by making your "unbreakable seals" not warp or wear badly your behind already, does not matter if they dont break or if your not making the power you need, or cant start the engine without pouring oil down its throat !