After having this for a year, Im starting to have problems,the battery isnt charging. I had the altenator checked it was fine, a new battery yesterday, and I had the started checked today. Whenever I start the car, it cranks very slow, i have to pat the gas a few time for it to do anything. I'll get some reading from the haltech and maybe that help out. Anyone have a idea what this could be? I checked the grounds in the engine bay and all are tight, no corrosion around anything.

 

mine is in the trunk and useing welding cables both pos & neg straight to the motor with a large ground cable from the motor to the frame, O forgot to say I'm useing a alt from a 929 and two of them gel batterys that where warenty, they are almost 8yrs old by now, X mazda tech, that free stuff was nice

 

mine is in the trunk and useing welding cables both pos & neg straight to the motor with a large ground cable from the motor to the frame, O forgot to say I'm useing a alt from a 929 and two of them gel batterys that where warenty, they are almost 8yrs old by now, X mazda tech, that free stuff was nice, 76 RX4 twin turbo 2nd gen supsion

 

Check the battery terminals - I had an intermittent problem that caused the car to sudden lose all power when driving after hitting a bump!  It was the loose terminal coming off the battery posts.  The stock battery terminals have a little tension to keep them from popping off, but with a relocated system, there is very little tension on them to keep them from moving.


-Ted

 

I know you said you checked them but it REALLY sounds like a grounding issue. Thats EXACTLY how my car acted when the grd from the uim to firwall came undone

STEPHEN

 

Doesn't that suck? Happened to me in the middle of the night on a road without street lights. COMPLETELY dark. Scared me shitless.

so, i agree with ted, check your terminal connections. But Stephen could be right, too, so check the grounds.

What happens if you attach a battery charger to the battery?

Perhaps there is a short somewhere? My truck would not start for a week, and I found out that the battery cables were bad, creating a short further downstream from the battery.

 

If you use "CHEAP ***" cable , after a while the the copper in the strands begin to degrade (oxidize)and resistance builds up causing all sorts of problems , to get around this you should use high quality ,oxygen free , O gauge wire , the expensive type !!.

 

haha thats funny becuase i dont have a wire from the umper intake to the firewall. Weird thing is its just now begining to act up. The terminals are there. I pretty sure its a ground wire also.
At idle I show around 12.4vt, on brake 11.7vt,
driving at 2500 rpms 13.4vt. Why Dont I just buy the $100 ground kit?

 

You're battery may be spent. Check the voltage at the bat with the car off and compare to a new battery. I just replaced my mini battery cause it would not barely turn the car over even after a full charge with the bat tender. At rest volts was only 11.7 when I replaced it. At rest volts on the new bat was 13!

Most auto parts stores can load test your bat for free.

 

well, my old battery was under warranty so they just swaped it out.

 

Happened to me too. My alarm installer didn't tighten one down quite enough, and it slowly wiggled itself loose. The problem showed itself as a starter issue at first, but when the starter turned out ok I started to look elsewhere and found the battery issue.

 

ok, heres what we have. I check all ground all are fine. I think I might have found the problem though. I only have one ground and its a Black/yellow wire thats grounded to the bottom of the block(drivers side). Im using an optima red top, there 2 places for +/- , theres 2 big post on top and some small post on the side that use a screw in deal,im using the those.
Sometimes i can turn the key and nothing happens(as if the battery was dead), I can turn it agian nothing happens, after afew time of that it will finally start to turn over nice and slow.

 

When you first get in the car, do your lights and whatnot turn on? Everything electrical would work in mine until i tried to turn it over, then everything would go dead for 5-10 minutes, no interior lights or anything. It turned out that the positive cable i ran from the back was making contact with the cable in the engine bay, but would short out when the starter would draw its current. Might be something to look into, it can sometimes be the positive cable that is not right.

 

I added a ground cable from the uim to firewall, I didnt scrap the paint off the firewall. It didnt help but I think I found my problem. Theres a black/yellow ground cable from the bottem of the block to the chassis, but theres a connector in between and on the chassis side, its a smaller cable. To see how much difference it would make to disconnect the cable from the chassis, it made no difference. So it looks like the I have a bad engine ground.