You Can always modify the throttle body,port and polish intake manifold,tuner never told me what was done to cars but said it's possible. the most he made on na stock ports was 183rwhp and he said that was on a block with good compression
..... still learning,always good to have input from others with more experience

 

I've heard of 189.2 whp with a couple of choice modifications, but it wasn't strictly stock ports.

 

Speedsource claimed 180+whp on their ITS cars with stock ports, manifold, MAF etc and Motec. I think they were doing 170-175whp without the Motec.

 

I'm not sure if you know this technique but, You could gut the car out lol shaving weight is an excellent weapon when wanting to go faster for the most part its free and it adds a power to weight % to about every 15 to 20 horses you add.

 

While that might be the peak, it's certainly not the average. How many 180 whp stock port NA's do we have around here?

 

It's also probably not racing class legal. If it is, everyone's doing it, so there's no real benefit, relatively speaking.

 

I find it funny how this thread took off again

I saw it in the "related threads" box under Logan's thread that I linked to in this thread.

Question: Is 230whp in a daily driven n/a possible?

Answer: Yes. We have proof of this.

Dumbass: "OMG u cant get that w/a bridge port lol !!!"

 

The question should be, is 230 whp in a daily driven 6-port NA possible?

 

The problem is the "average" NA owner throws on an intake and "street" header and calls it a day. Most NA owners want all kinds of power but don't want to spend the time and/or money to get it. It's different in when money and a podium is involved. So the average power from stock port (and street port) street cars seems to be <150whp whereas average power from stock port race cars is probably >170whp.

Maybe we should differentiate from those who want more power and those who are willing to spend the time and money to get it.

 

The other thing is noise.

Speedsource and ITS both make close to 180 whp on their cars, but the amount of noise violation tickets you would get would easily make the system not worth it.

Stock port race cars are also rebalanced to be able spin to higher rpm's. No street NA guy is going to spend the money to pull the engine apart to rebalance it.

Street cars are limited by my general rule of thumb to 160 whp stock ports, and 180 whp street ports. That's assuming stock intake manifold though.

 

I would say your thumb isn't big enough!

 

The stock intake manifold should be the FIRST thing to go!

 

What average NA street FC owner do you know knows what to replace his intake manifold with? What average NA street FC owner do you know makes more than 160 whp on stock ports?

Not many on my end. A small streetport that I ran on the highway was making < 160 whp on stock intake manifold, cone filter, racing beat headers, presilencer, catback and SAFC2.

 

I have never looked into it yet, but does anyone know if the 4-port engine can be used in the ITS and other scca classes using the FC chassis? N/a of course.

 

No, stock 6 port NA engines only in ITS. You can't even run a 4 port in E Production either, 6 ports only as well (street ports and Weber IDA's allowed though). With an engine swap you'll be getting into catch-all classes or GT classes, either way you won't be competetive. At least with the group that does the racing here in the North West there's an RS (Radical Sedan) class that's somewhat of a hybrid between IT and Prod where you could run a TII engine (I think, but I could be misinterpreting the rules), but no 13B-RE.

 

I don't believe it can, in ITS. Stock engine only. You can barely change anything on an ITS car, relatively speaking.

In NASA, a car with a 4-port would have to be re-classified via dyno results, erasing any advantage from swapping the engine.

 

I can tell you that according to my drag times, my stock ~180k mile s4 motor was making around 160whp(14.3@94 in a 2400lb FB) with a Racing Beat header, 2.5" crush bent exhaust, cone filter, flywheel, and 4.3 rearend.

The thing is the average NA owner is a kid(i would probably fall in this category too). So i would agree that the average is as low as you're saying, but knowing what my car does with little mods and what others have done with more modifications, I'm not willing to accept it as law(maybe I'm stubborn).

 

I'm sure the flywheel and the 4.3 rearend definitely helped you out without improving your hp, but I see where you're coming from with your quarter mile time.

Kudos to you.

 

I calculate about 155-160hp at the crank from that, depending on how much you weigh.

That's using the same calculator that figures my engine as making 175hp at the crank, which it probably does, since it made 154 at the wheels. (You can try it yourself - 2700lb with driver, 94mph top end)

The average *FC* owner is a kid who doesn't know or care. At least, that is what I see.

 

The stock intake manifold can flow well over 200 hp so I will disagree that it is the first thing that should go. The first items that should be dealt with are the exhaust, flywheel, and tuning aka the ecu. Your largest gains sans porting will be with those. Everything else is smaller but will still add to the total.

 

I've seen some that calculate whp and some that calculate fwhp and both were about 160. I leaned towards the whp calculators since this motor put down 146whp with stock exhaust. Although it's entirely possible that the dyno could have been manipulated. So at this point I would say your proof beats my logic.

 

I use the horsepower calculator at DSM.net. However, their description of it is wrong - it will give you flywheel horsepower, NOT wheel horsepower.

The formula (for MPH) used was made by Chrysler engineers in the 50s, after hundreds of quarter mile runs on cars of known weight and known *engine* horsepower. It's not a theoretical formula, it was generated by fitting a formula that fit the curve generated by hard data.

ET is a horrible method of measuring power. ET is often determined by the first 60 feet, while MPH tends to be the same no matter how good/bad a driver you are.

 

Well - since we've determined that FC owners are usually kids that don't care, and that it stays within the scope of the thread to shoot down peoples HP results, I'm happy (and thankful) to see some stock port HP/timeslip postings. If somebody posts a stock port timeslip, that's worthy information. Why all the hate? I'm researching this stuff myself, and all the shoot-downs and chest-beating just makes things damn annoying to research. This isn't the Honda Forum.

On another note, I've met more FD owners than FC owners; and they (to me) usually seem much younger, stuffy and ignorant. Usually rich youngsters wit no financial responsibility. At least with an FC youngster, you KNOW they're not being spoiled by their parents! Just my humble 2 cents.

 

enough with the argueing. Here is a dialy driver FB with 230 WHP! NA street port.
https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-aspirated-performance-forum-220/make-230rwhp-streetport-13bre-n-818133/
here's my car 230whp isn't far away. daily driven gsl-se engine. it's ported but the port sizes werent changed at all it was just cleaned up to remove casting.

 

Um....isn't the scope of this thread street driven non-modified six port NA first or second gen's?

Unless your engines are 13B-DEI's found in the first or second gen, I don't think it's in the scope of this thread.

Basically, the gist of this thread is, I don't have the funds for the turbo, what's the most I'm going to get out of my stock NA engine via porting and such?

Now will someone please show me a non-bridged 230 whp 13B-DEI motor that is in a NA SA/FB/FC? Hell, first let's see 200 whp.

I will go so far as to say, it's not possible, without a bridge or a very aggressive street port and some serious money for the standalone, tuning, matching the exhaust to the car, etc.

All those reading this thread and hoping to bolt-on and streetport your way to 230 whp, it's not going to happen.

Props for the 189 whp on the GSL-SE motor though. What mods are you running and what do you need to get to 200 whp?