actually lupe, those photos help me alot. i think its eigher going to be between the 4link setup and the setup roadrace posted. thanks

 

ok, i cant find anywhere that sells those 4link bars, i can make the mounting brackets myself, i just need bars.

any links would be appreciated.

oh, lupe, is there a ladder bar mounted under there or is it mounted directly to the stock chasis?

i might just build one like the ones in this link, if it works out good, sell them as a kit.

http://www.swracecars.com/rearframes.asp#pro

 

Lower bars are mounted to the stock mounting area. Uppers are mounted to the body seems and are mounted to 18sq" plates.

Tubing is made by afco.

 

Hahaha, of course you didn't notice any difference in handling Eric ... you take all corners at half the posted speed

 

That's very true. Just the thought of taking a corner makes me nauseas

 

They have drugs for that

 

The truck arm suspension will handle better that a 4 link that doesn't have compliant bushings. When one you try to lift one wheel on a 4 link that doesn't have equal length, parallel links the suspension trys to twist the axle housing. Dirt track racers get rid of the bind with bird cages. A 3 link is also good for suspension articulation. You can feel good an red neck with a 3 link since NASCAR Nextel Cup runs 3 'em.

 

how much would a coilover set like that cost?

 

Find out where your local dirt track racers go for theirs. They'll be able to make you anything you want and it will be cheap.

If you can't find anything that way give www.stockcarproducts.com a visit but you'll be better off finding someone local. Don't bother making brackets unless you need something special. Brackets are cheap.

aluminum tubes

steel tubes

brackets

 

Yes, I bought my aluminum afco tubing from a local circle track race car shop. I also bought all my heim joints their too.

 

josh, do you happen to have photos of how the truck trailing arm suspension is setup?

 

http://www.hotrodstohell.net/truckar...karm_index.htm

 

Thanks for posting that Nihilanthic. I was looking for that very site, but couldn't find it myself even having been there before.

I forgot to mention that their stuff is a bit spendy. I was looking at this web site for ideas, but not for products. I'd grab an original set of trailing arms from a 1960-1972 Chevy pickup and build my own crossmember. The mounting tabs and such can come from cheaper circle track suppliers. The trailing arms might need to be shortened, but that's a lot easier than starting from scratch or paying $220 each.

 

ok i can tell how the setup works there. im definatly going to call aroudn to junk yard and see what i can find. anyone know the length the solid axle would have to be, from the hub part (where the wheel studs go into) to the other hub part. i might have to shorten mine down a bit. im looking into my suspension tomorrow, to see how i would like to do it. for the rear the measure ments i got were 59 3/4 long. with the tires with pressure on them.

i pulled the solid axle the other day, its the 489 non posi with 2.76 gears.