hey everyone i was thinking about getting a tilton race pedal assembly with dual master brake cylinders located in the cockpit. here is a link to the assembly in question:
http://www.tiltonracing.com/content....list2&id=9&m=b

i was wondering what kind of fabrication will be needed to the brake system, brake lines, clutch system etc? i will be getting rid of abs as well. thanks a lot guys!

 

What kind of car are we talking about? These don't work very well with the stock calipers on a FC so figure on replacing then as well. What's wrong with the stock pedals?

 

I just removed the stock master and booster and put a pair of tilton masters on the firewall. It took a lot of cutting and welding but I use the stock pedals. I added a bias bar to the stock brake pedal. The next thing to figure out is what size to make each master cyl. The stock bias gradually cuts pressure to the rears as you push harder on the pedal, Eventually you are only getting 30 percent to the rears if I remember the manaul correctly. I have a few masters laying around the shop to play with, I just have not had the time to do all the math to get close enough for the bias bar to start out close to the middle.
I'll try to get a couple pics today of the fab'd stuff.

 

I'm guessing you haven't looked at a price yet....

IMO, not worth the time and money for what you get. Unless you're building a tube frame GT car, then I still don't know that it's worth it (except everybody else does it/uses them).

 

Here are some shots of my brake mods. The car is just coming apart to paint after mocking things up so some of the hardware isn't the final stuff. I'm also thinking about some kind of reinforcement of the master cylinder area. Probably a stay rod going to the strut tower or cage bar.
This was interesting to do because I had to cut the pedal assembly mount apart and move some spacers to match up with the twin masters. I also moved the steering column about 2" toward the middle of the car.

 

jgre...
The problem you are going to run into is that when you get around to doing the math you will find out that the Ideal MC (front) needs to be about 9/16 bore. Now if you find one of these let me know. Nobody makes one. 5/8 is the smallest anyone makes. Might be a metric one out there that is slightly smaller but it's not in the Tilton catalog. This was a real stumbling block in the development of my EP car but we got over it eventually.
JW

 

I've asked this question over and over, so here goes again. Why not just get rid of the power boster???? I did this on an old trans-am mustang I built, and it worked just fine with-out the boster, by changing the ratio to the master cylinder, from the brake pedal. WORKED for me.

 

Dick, That was the first thought I had. The stock master is a 7/8", I just happened to have some 5/8" masters laying around and I fugured they would get me in the ballpark keeping the brake pedal stock. EProdrx7 brings up the problem I was afraid of, I may end up modifying the pedal still to get into the range of available masters.

 

Back in the late 60's, Ford built all of their Mustangs, with a brake pedal with two different holes to allow the use of disc or drum brakes. We used the very same master cylinder, but with different leverage due to moveing the master cylinder rod to the other hole in the brake pedal. Worked for me. DICK

 

Yep, I was figuring on drilling a hole above the stock one and then lowering the holes the pedal pivots on to keep everything in line with the masters.

 

Go to theracingstore.com to see a kit that replaces the power boster (I think)

 

it seems like everyone on this thread is working w different applications...

i have an fd and have ditched the abs. i run lockheed AP 4 piston brakes up front w 13 X 1.25 rotors. the rear is stock. ebc green and red pads depending on whether i am on the street or track.

going fast on the track envolves using all four brakes to the max which requires adjustability of which i have none at the moment and w the stock fd proportioning valve i am not getting much out of my rear brakes... which should be stopping my 18x10 rear wheels.

consequently i will be using much of tiltons brake stuff. i will buy the balance bar and fixture it so it is actuated by the stock pedal brake rod. a couple of mastercylinders, reservoirs and an adj cable. sizing will require a bit of thought but i have a month or two before i can get to it.

BTW, just for laughs i disconnected my the vacuum line to my power booster. i have a pretty good leg but i don't advise anyone doing it that needs to stop his car

sure i could mess w the pedal ratio but it wouldn't help my bias.

if anyone has already figured out sizing lets hear from you.

howard coleman

 

Howard, check out this link for all the figuringhttp://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=faq&view=9

Fill in the blanks and they'll do the math and get back to you in about a day with recommendations.

 

thanks for the helpful link..

hc

 

what about installing a tilton lever type proportioning on a FC with stock caliper. Worth the effort?

 

I know of people that use them, I don't like them. When you cut rear line pressure the pedal gets spongy. This could have been from an air bubble or just a bad adjuster. We had all kinds of problems with one and removed it half way through a race weekend. That particular car(an FC in Eprod) runs an almost stock brake system except for braided lines, hawk blue pads and cooling ducts. Remove the stock bias valve if you go with a tilton otherwise you end up cutting something like 70%(tilton) of 30%(stock) of the pressure when you stand on the pedal hard with the tilton at full cut. Then you only get about 9% of the line pressure to the rears! You will never wear out the rear pads that way. LOL

I would play with different pads front and rear before I tried anything other than stock w/braided lines.