What will it take (wheelie)
#4
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LOL there was a guy in High School in an old chevelle that pulled his shocks so that he could lift the front end from a roll. He'd get it bouncing by blipping the throttle and then punch it... It'd lift about a foot or so.
Torque and lots of traction. Getting the front end as light as possible couldn't hurt
Torque and lots of traction. Getting the front end as light as possible couldn't hurt
#6
OK I guess I should have explained more. What components would be able to handle this frequently? Which dif? He was thinking maybe a locker or something simialar. Also he was thinking about a slight tub. What kinds of mods needed on a 12A? I told him best bet was SC and even nitrous. He would maybe have to spray off the line. What carb? What kind of tranny could handle that big grunt right off the get-go?
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#12
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It will help provide that initial burst of energy required to lift the front wheels.
Once you get past that first launch, then too heavy of a flywheel will hinder the car from accelerating.
If his one goal is a wheelie, then a heavier flywheel will help him make that goal better than a light flywheel will.
Once you get past that first launch, then too heavy of a flywheel will hinder the car from accelerating.
If his one goal is a wheelie, then a heavier flywheel will help him make that goal better than a light flywheel will.
#14
Rotary Freak
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The cheapest and probably the fastest way would be with a V8 and NOS. Put an '87-93 8.8" Mustang rear end out back. With upgraded axles and either an Eaton LSD or a spool they are very strong.
Simply transfer the mounting brackets from the FB rear end onto the 8.8" housing. You would need different offset rims now.
Racing isn't cheap... and your friend should expect to put in a decent amount of $$$ to build a car that can pop wheelies. Weight is the enemy. Gut the car.
-GNX7
Simply transfer the mounting brackets from the FB rear end onto the 8.8" housing. You would need different offset rims now.
Racing isn't cheap... and your friend should expect to put in a decent amount of $$$ to build a car that can pop wheelies. Weight is the enemy. Gut the car.
-GNX7
#15
Mad Man
It is noteworthy that Drag cars try everything to prevent wheelies, as the bottom of the car(a big rectangle) perpendicular to the track is not particularly aerodynamic
#16
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Originally Posted by gnx7
The cheapest and probably the fastest way would be with a V8 and NOS. Put an '87-93 8.8" Mustang rear end out back. With upgraded axles and either an Eaton LSD or a spool they are very strong.
Simply transfer the mounting brackets from the FB rear end onto the 8.8" housing. You would need different offset rims now.
Racing isn't cheap... and your friend should expect to put in a decent amount of $$$ to build a car that can pop wheelies. Weight is the enemy. Gut the car.
-GNX7
Simply transfer the mounting brackets from the FB rear end onto the 8.8" housing. You would need different offset rims now.
Racing isn't cheap... and your friend should expect to put in a decent amount of $$$ to build a car that can pop wheelies. Weight is the enemy. Gut the car.
-GNX7
#17
YES, this is what I was wanting to hear. Thank you very much 13btnos. Also thanks everyone else for your ideas. he is thinking about doing a dana 60 and doesnt want a spool. He grew up around musclecars that could pull the wheelies (non street tires obviously) and so this is what he wants. Something that is just fast. Car is already gutted. He is ging to strip out the dash and make some sort of plate to hold the gauges in. He is also going to put a fuel cell in (probably 10 gallon). I will tell him about the 200SX rear. Dont you mean 240SX though? I thought the 200SX was front wheel drive. At least the new ones are. Not too familiar with nissans though.
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
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Nope the late 70's and early 80's up to 1981 I think are rear wheel drive with disc brakes and you have to use the third member from a 70-73 Datsun pickup it drops in and the axle splines are the same. The stock gears in the 200sx are highway gears they suck. Or you can use the rearend out of a 70-73 datsun pickup if it's a 1300cc it will probably have 4.88 gears but they are weak and 1600cc are usally 4.37 and ring and pinions are bigger but you need to get the wheel stud pattern redrilled to fit whatever wheels your running stock they are 6 bolt pattern. Also an early ford courier pickup 70's also are better some come 4.62. Personnally I wouldn't go with the Dana 60 very good rearend but also very heavy that's a lot of rotational mass in the driveline. If your trying to go cheap but reliable you have to use the right parts don't go cheap where it counts. Remember drag racing is all about power to weight doesn't matter what you drive whether it be V8, 6 cylinder, 4 cylinder or rotary the clock doesn't lie 10second pass in a V8 is just as impressive as a 10second pass in a rotary. I'm a rotary guy but I love all sorts of cars.
#21
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Originally Posted by BDoty311
Torque+Traction=wheelie
#23
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Let's see, if you look at some real rough estimates:
1400 lbs on the front wheels
8 ft wheelbase = 11200 lbs of torque at the rear wheels
5:1 differential = 2240 lbs of torque at the driveshaft
4:1 first gear = 560 lbs of torque at the flywheel
You'll need traction for about 560 lbs of torque to get the front wheels off the ground (or substitute your own weights and ratios).
1400 lbs on the front wheels
8 ft wheelbase = 11200 lbs of torque at the rear wheels
5:1 differential = 2240 lbs of torque at the driveshaft
4:1 first gear = 560 lbs of torque at the flywheel
You'll need traction for about 560 lbs of torque to get the front wheels off the ground (or substitute your own weights and ratios).