I always thought the water/meth injection was always placed either in front of each port or a single nozzle in front of the throttle body.
My buddy said he is going water/meth injection on his car, and his tuner was going to place the nozzle near the turbo. He wasn't quiet sure, his car knowledge is limited. He said at the turbo near the air filter, or the hotpipe before the intercooler. Anyone heard of this? I was thinking most of the water would condense on the intercooler fins. Of course the air charge would be extra cool, but I learned about water injection when people were spraying directly to the engine.

 

Many install it before the inercooler to increase the exhange of heat through the intercooler.

Idealy, you want it after the blades of the TB to allow the intake charge to better atomize the water/meth before it enters the combustion chambers.

Placing it before the turbo is a great way to atomize the mixture however it is an even better way to destroy the blades as the water will pit the turbo. DO NOT under any circumstances, do this.

 

Many people have had great success running pre-turbo water injection. Do your research and you will find out more than you need to know. I dont agree with "nofords, DO NOT do it theory". But to each his own. Go to the auxiliary injection forum and read, read, read!

 

so I'm wondering about the atomization of preturbo injection then.

 

Perhaps others have.

Knowing lots of S/C and Turbo cars that have pre-compressor injection with detrimental results.

In s/c cars for example, it removes the teflon off the blades because of the bursting water droplets when they hit the screw tips. In a turbo, the same is true except there is no "protective coating."

Do what you want, I personally spray post turbo on another car I own with years of success. (also using the cheaper blue windshield washer fluid mix on this car!) Others have known to get 6mos out of a turbo before the induction housing shows signs similar to prop cavitation pitting.

As already stated...read read read!

Good Luck!

 

Any issues spraying before the IAT? My haltech IAT has an exposed element and looks fragile.

 

I would imagine that it is not a good idea to mist an open element IAT

 

I tapped my nozzle right before the Throttle body into my GReddy elbow. I have experienced no problems with this location and I track my car as well.

 

If you check out dudemaaan's thread over at RCC it goes into a lot of detail about preturbo mechanical water injection. I don't think i'd want to spray 100% meth preturbo something about compressing a very flammable fuel doesn't sound right.

 

sure
http://www.wannaspeed.com/index.php?...roducts_id=181

 

I've seen this argument before, and I come down on the side of "don't put it in front of the turbo because of pitting the blades." I remembered that I have a copy of Maximum Boost by Corky Bell, which I haven't read in forever, so I cracked it open to see what he has to say:

"The water injector is not a very interesting device. It has little place in a properly conceived turbo system. Two circumstances are viable for a water injector: a 1970 home-built Vega turbo with a draw-through carb, or a Roots supercharger sitting between a huge engine and two huger (really big) carburetors. To stake the margin of safety of a turbocharged engine on an inherently unreliable device is an idea whose time has long since passed. RIP."

"Rule: A water injector on a turbo car is a poor-excuse band-aid for not doing the job correctly the first time."

"Don't be too hasty to create a margin of safety on detonation based on an unreliable device. Water injection is best used when boost levels over 6 PSI are desired but no intercooler is present. Do not allow a situation to exist where the water injector is used as an excuse for improper air/fuel ratios. All things considered, you would be far ahead never to have heard of a water injector."

So there's that to consider. His stance makes great sense from a race car engineering standpoint. On a race car you want to eliminate anything that has the potential to break and cause you a DNF that you can get away with. If your setup is configured such that losing the water system would blow you up, you probably shouldn't be using it.

 

what!!!

so your saying that noone should run more than 1bar of boost on the street because a book told you not to.

because i dont know of that many people running 1.2bar+ on pump fuel with no water injection, i know i wouldnt want to.

corky talks about piston engines in which case he is mostly right, but for rotary engines you need that bandaid if you want to run decent boost on pump fuel

 

Well, not just any book.

This is the racing section, so I'm talking from a racing standpoint. Adding another system that will blow your motor if something goes wrong is bad mojo.