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Sway bar spring rates

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Old 11-06-13 | 02:25 PM
  #26  
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How about mounting a speedway style bar behind the front wheels? Have't been under the car to check if it's plausible though.
Old 11-06-13 | 02:42 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by papiogxl
How about mounting a speedway style bar behind the front wheels? Have't been under the car to check if it's plausible though.
It would probably be better, especially if you built the mounts into the rear control arm mounting brackets which you could then brace between.

a lot of cars run sway bars behind the front wheels stock.
Old 11-11-13 | 03:13 PM
  #28  
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Sway bar helps alot with transitions . I wouldnt remove it in the front . I removed it in the rear on my miata . and the car was easier to control . but it sucked on slaloms because of transitions
Old 11-12-13 | 07:38 AM
  #29  
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From: Japanabama
Originally Posted by eage8
It would probably be better, especially if you built the mounts into the rear control arm mounting brackets which you could then brace between.

a lot of cars run sway bars behind the front wheels stock.
Does the FC not?

Honestly, the rotary engine is so light and so low and so far back that I don't think moving the location of the bars would make any real difference in polar moment if inertia... maybe if it was a front wheel drive car that needs every ounce of weight moved back. Generally speaking, the less you change from stock the better... improving what's already there is usually the he's solution.
Old 11-12-13 | 08:19 AM
  #30  
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From: Woodbine, MD
Originally Posted by eage8
I've been looking at modifying Mk1-3 VW golf ball joints to work since they have the same pinch bolt design, but they're 15/17/19mm and I think they FC is a 16mm stud...
Just to update this as to not have false information out there... I measured last night and it was 18mm, not 16mm. I had mis-remembered.
Old 11-12-13 | 08:21 AM
  #31  
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From: Woodbine, MD
Originally Posted by Valkyrie
Does the FC not?

Honestly, the rotary engine is so light and so low and so far back that I don't think moving the location of the bars would make any real difference in polar moment if inertia... maybe if it was a front wheel drive car that needs every ounce of weight moved back. Generally speaking, the less you change from stock the better... improving what's already there is usually the he's solution.
No, the FC's is in front of the front wheels and the arms go towards the back...

The point is not to have less polar moment (though it would help) it's to decrease the leverage on the frame rails by placing the bar closer to the center of them.
Old 11-13-13 | 02:44 AM
  #32  
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From: Japanabama
Ok, it's been a few years since I've fiddled with my FC.

Aren't the mounting points on the submember?

You could just seamweld and reinforce the submember, could you not?

Seamwelding the frame rails would also be an option if you want more rigidity.
Old 11-17-13 | 07:00 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by eage8
No they aren't. All FC bars are solid...

20 lbs might be an overstatement. I'll weigh it when I take it off.
I took the front bar off and it looks like the stock front bar is ~9 lbs

My whiteline 27mm bar with bushings and endlinks was 15.6 lbs.
Old 11-02-16 | 07:16 PM
  #34  
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Does anyone know the FD's sway bar front motion ratio? I would like to calculate the wheel rate of my front sway bar.
Old 11-03-16 | 02:09 AM
  #35  
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From: Japanabama
Get a framing square and measure the distance between the pivot points (the center of the bar and the sway bar links). Calculate the spring rate with this and the thickness of the bar.

Then measure from the two lower suspension pickups to middle of the sway bar link. Then measure from the pickups to the lower ball joint.
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