What are the CCW wheels specs, ride height, static camber to fit the A6 285/30ZR18 under OE front fender? Were your fender liners removed/hacked/modified?

Thanks!
Jake

 

The standard CCW Classic 18x10(backspacing of 7.5... John doesn't do offsets) will fit a 285/30/18 without any modification to the fender or liners. I'm sure Dan and Erik will chime in, but in the meantime, here is a picture of mine for reference:


The only suspension modifications I have on my car are coilovers and a Tripoint front sway bar. Tires on the car in this picture are Hoosier Koni Challenge slicks that are 275/35/18, but I've ran the 285/30/18 without issue as well. I run the 275's because I got a good deal on them, and it saves me points in my Time Trial class.

 

Thanks! What ride height, spring rates & static camber are you running?

 

Ride Height- not real sure. Somewhere between 25 and 26. The rear generally has to be raised a little when you add a wing unless you are stiffening the rear springs. Here's a little better picture of my ride height, I think I had just had the rear jacked up because it looks a little high like it hasn't settled back down completely):

Spring Rates are 10/8, but my car is a track car. Don't let the SSM fool you, I do the AutoX's for car control and to have fun... I'm not competitive in the least like Dan is. Alignment specs are standard street specs. I've also ran these wheels on a completely stock FD before.

 

OK. I run stiffer, so no problem with roll. Thanks for the ride height info too. My rear clearance wont be an issue for now. I run a lot of rake and currently clear 275/35/17's (which have 0.5" more diameter than the 285/30/18).

 

I run P295/35ZR17 up front, CCW Clasics 17x10" 7.5" back space. Fender lips are rolled. Still have stock fender liners, no modification. Front Camber is -3.1. I have replaced the upper control arms which allows me to dial in what ever camber I want. Ride height is right around 25"

Hope this helps,
Dan

 

This is great news since I already have a decent set of 295/17 A6s! Thanks Dan.

 

In case anyone is interested, this new release should work the same:

Make: 949 Racing
Model: 6ULR
Size: 17x10 52ET 5x114.3
Weight: 18.9 lbs
Manf: Low Pressure Cast, T6 Heat Treated, Spun Forged Outer Rim
Price: $279ea

http://949racing.com/6ULR-wheels.aspx
http://949racing.com/wheeltech.aspx

 

I run 275's up front with minor fender rolling. I'm considering going with A6 295 tires, but I need a new set of wheels as they are only +43 offset.

Oh yeah, my ride height is closer to 26". I would like to get it down to 25.5" or lower if possible.

 

Release date estimate is late March

 

We run 18x11" rims on the front with our 285's, and I think it may be the same back space, at 7.5" You have to roll the stock fenders and run at least 3 degrees front camber. This requires a adjustable upper control arm. You also have to run 2 1/4" front coilovers. If you call CCW and ask for the 11" wheels from our specs, they should have them available. We run 950lb front springs, btw.

 

Thanks Erik. I borrowed a fender roller and went to town last week, even pulling the fender a lite bit out. I'm banking on getting this to fit without splurging on the upper control arms. Unfortunately, I'll have to dial out my caster in favor of static camber to tuck these under. Not ideal.

 

I ran a high grip lot this weekend with some mid corner bumps. The car had some rubbing issues.

One area was at the rear-inside metal frame/body just forward of the suspension components. The inside of the tire rubbed off the undercoating to the metal.

The other was just the top of the front fender liner. (not too worried)

Keep in mind, I am still on a 42mm offset 17x9 (295/35/17). According to http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp a 17x10 52mm offset with the same tire, would be 9 mm (0.4'') more inwards (towards the suspension/brakes components/inner frame). I don't see how you guys are getting away with it?

I am considering running a spacer in the rear now, even with the 17x9 42mm.

 

I don't get home you all clear with 52 offset with no rubbing?

 

Do you run the 10" wide on all four corners, or you go wider with the rear? My tire choice is kinda slim from TOYO, and since I will be bumped into a bigger class if I use the R888, the max size I could run in the rear would be 295/35/18.

 

I do run 18x10 on all 4 corners. You could fit the 295 in the rear. I run a 275/35/18 currently due to saving some points/horsepower in my class. If I end up moving up a class, I'll most likely run 295's in the front and put my pettit flares on and run 335's in the rear with my other set of CCW classics that are 17x10 and 17x12.

 

the 295 35 17 tire is approx 1/2 inch taller and obviously wider than the 285 30 18also if you like the rear with some toe in that can cause rubbing. Usually zero toe is preferred in the back with a just a little front toe to keep her going straight. Also running agressive camber like neg 2 and up can cause some rubbing. I like 1.8 up front and 1.5 in the rear. If I run too much camber out back I'll eat the insides of the tires and I like rotating and swapping every direction so even wear is really important to me. Also remember the wider the tire the less camber you usually need.

 

Oops I saw that Brent posted and thought this was for road racing hehe

Anywho disregard my post. I'd guess the autocrossers are running some toe out and more camber.

 

well, regardless, you were spot on talking about alignment settings that cause the rubbing. I have 0.1* rear toe-in and -2* rear camber. I think I might dial back the rear toe-in next time I go for an align. Everyone talks inches as toe measurements so I can't compare. What is my 0.1* in equivalent inches?

 

As Erik said, you have to run an adjustible upper control arm and close to 3 degrees neg camber to run the larger tires up front. The most I could run was a 275 will the fenders rolled until I made the change. In the rear you will need after market trailing arms that are offset to the inside to keep the tire from rubbing on them if you go to a 315 or larger w/ 7.5" back space. Mine also use to hit in the rear where you discribed, going to a after market pillowball toe link and a little tapping with a hammer solved the rub. I run a 1/8" toe in on the rear.

Hope this helps,
Dan

 

OK, just to make sure I can't be wrong, these rims in 17x10 with a 52 offset will fit the FD front and rear without rubbing if I run 275/40/17?

Are there any aftermarket suspension parts up front that you guys would recommend going with? I have a friend of mine that's not using his aftermarket rear bars n other items.

 

Edit

 

So I ran the car this weekend with the 18x10 7.5 bs and 295/30/18. A few things to say regarding clearance and rubbing. First, let me post my alignment:
.................Camber/Toe/Caster......................Camber/Toe/Caster
Front Left... -2.7* / 0.1* out / 5.1* ......Front Right -2.6* / 0.1* out / 5.1*
Rear Left.... -1.9* / 0.1* in / na ..........Rear Right -1.9* / 0.1* in / n

1: Rear - The inside-front of each tire rubbed all over the frame (8 inches section of the undercoating was rubbed off). I did hit this with a hammer, but apparently, not nearly enough. I got a set of 3mm wheel spacers to pull it out some, but I suspect this won't be sufficient as it use to rub with a 42 offset. How does my 0.1 degree toe-in per corner compare to Dan's 1/8" toe in (total or per corner?)? Perhaps my toe-in is too much.

2: Rear Left - The inside-rear rubbed through a 1cm^2 the plastic cover between the fuel tank and wheel. This could get amplified by bringing the toe back to neutral. The spacers will help here.

3: Rear - The inside-front of each tire touches the trailing arm ever so slightly when mounting the wheel (suspension unloaded). This doesn't appear to be a problem once loaded, as the distance between the arm and tire increases when lowered onto the wheels.

3. Front-Right - The lower control arm got chewed up (~ 3 mm groove carved into the aluminum) by either the inside wheel lip or a sticky-wheel-weight which stuck to the edge of the inside of the wheel. I suspect this occurred at full lock possibly pulling in or out of a driveway. I pulled the wheel weight off and plan to clean up and smooth the groove with a dremel so it doesn't damage the tire if it touches again. I order two more 3mm wheel spacers for the front as well.

 

Dan,

Are you running 3+ degrees of camber up front to clear the tires, or because its what the car wants to get the best grip?

I'm in the process of getting my XP car dialed in. I have my camber maxxed out up front at -2.6 degrees, 5.5 caster, 0 toe. Rear I am running -2.4 degrees, 0 toe. This is on 14k/12k springs, although I think this winter I"m going to bump it up to 16k/14k. I have to run the car too high to keep from bottoming out the fronts and rears on the liners/metal.

I'm running 285/30/18s front, 315/30/18s rear. I have been reading that you and Erik run more than 3 degrees of camber, and to get that I figured I'd make up a set of custom upper arms, so I can adjust camber and caster with them and leave the lower arm fixed in its fully outward position. But before I go through the work of making a jig to make the upper arms, I figured I should clarify that you run the camber because thats what works, not what it took to fit a tire.

 

are you the owner of the red xp FD that was at nationals this past week?