Intake make a huge difference. I used to have the same set-up by Pablo and had the same issue.
I'm now building a new engine using Mazda Comp PP housing with RX8 rotor and e-shaft, and Mazda comp intake, plus a little bit of porting by Darryl Drumond.
I'm still not sure about using my 58Gene Berg or going EFI.
Benny

 

I did some progress on my Intake box.since the most air box sell on market is not what I really want. SO I decide to make it by my self. so I went out to bought a Two pounds densty model foam( find it is too soft... stubid sales, so I have to spend a of the time fix the dent now). my air box wil lb 18 inch long 9 inch wide, 6 inch tall and had 5 inch inlet.. about the intake manifold length. it is about 7.5 inch long.... I still debeat shuold I dyno with my new intake and different jet. or do it when I finish my exauest....

 

nice. i cant wait to see it when its done

 

some update of my car


Got my air box done. sent my car to Performance solution to mount the air box, and FAB new exhaust.


I guess this time I will try some new setup. For now I will keep my RE header and using RB Y pipe with mega phone. and run 4 inch piping all the way to my LAVA rock...

My Q is will the piping be too big? I know every one using 3 inch only. but since my LAVA rock is 4 inch inlet mabe I should keep 4inch pipe, so I dont kill the flow. any idea?

Thanks for your time

J

 

My question is what is the inside diameter of the throat of your Y pipe, right where the two pipes join together? I tried a Racing Beat Y pipe back in 1999, and the throat of the collector was too small, and it killed the power on my PP race motor.

 

While I am not familiar with PP tuning, a general rule of thumb would be to richen up the fuel substantially at peak torque. This will give you a longer lasting engine, and a better torque curve. I agree you are WAY too lean up top. As for the crossing of the curves at 5250, that will only occur if the HP, ond TQ are scaled the same. As for the noise issue, have you considered a RB Presilencer? I run a RB presilencer for tracks where noise is an issue(on my turboII), and a straight through to an N1 where it is not. The RB PS should not effect power at ~250rwhp, it flows plenty for ~500whp on a turbo, with only ~20hp loss, or ~<5%. Carl

 

RB said their presilencers take 1-3 HP on the typical n/a street car. That's as good as it gets. I use two on my rx7.

 

Here are photos of my new PP engine.

http://images.realride.com/cgi-bin/i...?direct=PP-13B

Benny

 

I noticed that they use a brand new e-shaft for their engine. I wonder if an Rx8 e-chaft would work on the older 13b engines?

 

Now that's what I'm talkin' about!

 

Got my car back, Right now car is much quiter. sounds like a super loud street car, not Air plane . my current EXT system are RB Y pipe with 3 inch piping to LAVA rock muffler, and another RPM muffler( removeable). I also install westech dual EGT gauge. the place I install are round end of RB header.


FEW Q. what kind EGT will I got a idil my is 1000F? I know at WOT you dont want your EGT to pass 1700F. From what I heard between 1500-1700F are OK ?

Also one more Q on EGT. will two EGT read little different ?

Going to testing monday. hope I will have some good result

 

Idle: I see 850 to 1000 deg F at idle

The two pipes will read slightly different EGT. Either the mixture is different between the two rotors (very common), or if you have dual EGT gauges then the two gauges sometimes can read a little different (happens sometimes.)

 

Your post is a little hard to read, but it sounds like you mounted your EGT's downstream near the end of the header? Other peoples EGT readings won't really do you any good unless you have your probes mounted in somewhere near the same place. In some cases exhausr gas can lose 50 degrees per inch down the pipe. If you are running 1700 at the end of the header then you are too hot at the exhaust port.

 

no it won't.

the oil jets are in a different location. lemme see if i can dig one up and get pics.

 

Yes RX8 E-shaft will work on a 13B that what I'm using as well as RX8 Rotor and 20B stationery gears and RX8 counter weight front and back.
Benny

 

emphasise the rx8 rotors

 

went to testing day with my FC. Good and bad....

the good parts, My new cooling system work great!!!, I have one AWR EP radiators with air sperate tank. and one rebuild stock oil cooler at stock location. and one Mazda comp size SETRAB oil cooler on top, run series. I loose about 10-15 PSI of oil press with this setup. ( I used to have 110-130 PSI on WOT depend on RPM. Right now I am getting 100PSI-110PSI at WOT). The cooling temp is perfect with this setup. I run more than 10 laps in 90+F day. and my water is 190-200 and my oil was 200. and I did not even run any extra ducting. just factory plastic under body tray. so with more effection ducting it will work even better.

The bad parts. I did not improve on my lap timing. so I am not sure my intake box or my EXT work or not. need to go to dyno again to find it out.

Side note. my EGT at WOT is about 1600-1650F. so I should be good ?

my fuel setup. 275 main,110air,F11tube. 6 psi of fuel

 

Were you at the streets this weekend? I was at the big track saturday helping with a buddy hotlapping w/touring car club.

Have you put it on a dyno with wideband O2? That's best way to tune the carb.

Nice car btw.

 

280 to 300 WHP on pp rotarys is the usual HP with the 58 MM carb on 93 pump gas.
We have done about 270 WHP with a 51MM carb on 93 pump gas in the past without any problems at all.

 

MM Pablo Mobius's told me this, on EVAN's GT2 car they make 280WHP at 9000RPM. and he is using the same PP port like mine...

I already rent a Dynojet session this SAT. so will find out the truth pretty soon...

 

Went to a dyno today. GOOD and BAD.......

LETS talkabout good thing first.

finally I got super FLAT TQ curve. unlike few dyno I got earlier... I had 125FT-lbs on 4500RPM and steady increas to 8000RPM. my peak TQ is 150FT-LB at 7500RPM and it stay flat to 8000RPM. MM. from my understanding this is good sign right ?


THE BAD things. I am not making more WHP than I think I should. only 227WHP at 7800RPM but it also extent to 8700RPM the ( also a very flat curve , so I guess this is good sign also).

But the problem is I am running out of fuel. I increase my fuel pressure from 6psi to 9 psi( the car still starable,and runable but it will easy flooded) MY AIR jet is 110 and my main jet is 275 with F11 tube. THE A/F look good at 6700-7800RPM, low 12A/F to hight 11. but behind this RPM just cant get any more richer( and I know this is where PP just start making HP.... dam)... the pump I use is 20B DENSO EFI fuel pump. Is good for 190L per hour(at 60PSI I use Aeromotive by pass fuel Presure reguator to low it down to 6psi) mabe I am not getting enought fuel flow ? however even thought I am runing out of fuel? but my fuel pressure didnot even drop below 8PSI when I running lean. this is against what I knew? I thought when you run out of fuel. your fuel pressure will run low ?


SO my Q is how big of fuel pumpor pumps you use ? flow rate wise ?

This is what I am think now. I have a SX 1000HP fuel pump in my garage. This pump is good for 100+ gallon per hour at 10 PSI. I know it will be over kill. but this pump was sitting in my garage collection dust. so I migh just got some use of it...


SO for my new fuel system will be . one SX fuel pump. and using stock fuel pump as pick up. and one Aeromotive fuel filter. and my old fuel filter( BMW EFI fuel filter). hopely this will give the juice I need to power my PP.

 

Also

It might be stubid newbie Q. but how do I gap NGKR plugs for rotary....

before I never gap my plugs. I just put them on. and check the burn condion on plugs.

but after Reread Racingbeat catlog. i understnad the gap is very important to make HP on race motor. but how do you gap them ? seen to be the NGK R new from box got pretty big gap? but how to you measure gap on rotary?


thanks for all the helping

J

 

Looks like you need a richer emulsion tube. F8? I gap the NGK R plugs by bending ground electrode with a tiny screwdriver and measuring with a feeler gauge.

Weber 48IDA on peripheral ported 12A with headers and open exhaust

Venturi 43mm

Main fuel jet #230

Air Jet #125

Emulsion Tube #F-8

Use larger #300 float needle valve

 

The latest trend in carburetion is (much) larger needle and seats and lower fuel pressure. This helps eliminate foaming of the fuel in the bowls, which can cause fuel starvation even with a perfect setup.

 

Gap to .015 is what I was told. I ran these in my last event with good results.