Just wondering if any one else has wondered about the shipping? It's supposed to be discounted as well but I allways get one screw or one clip the same day Fed-X and the rest of the order UPS ground seperately, which makes me wonder if i'm paying $50 for shipping ...or if the invoice doesn't show stupid CA tax.

I don't want to post JDM part numbers on here or anything i'm not supposed to, so lets keep this thread semi private.

There are some things that are not discounted but at least they aren't marked up and are easy to get. RX-8 5-spd shift **** for example. It adds class and the weight balances out my RE-A short shifter. The rear Mazda and RX-7 emblems are cheaper elsewhere but all the other RZ, Spirit-R and Bathurst-R are way cheaper with the membership.

If anyone knows what is not appropriate to post in this thread, please reply. I don't want to ruin my/our memebership by mistake. Maybe we can leave out competition part #'s?

Anyhow, if anyone has access to a JDM 2002 parts catalog, please PM me. I can get partial infor fot 1999 but that's it. I was thinking of buying the catalog to search for RZ, Bathurst and Spirit-R parts.

Oh, has anyone got the chrome parking brake button for the Miata? It supposedly fits the FD. Anyone tried to order the JDM RHD door lock solenoid?

 

No problems here with any of my orders. A bit of advice, if you just need a small part it's cheaper to get it at the dealer than to pay shipping. I needed a wheel bearing grease cap last week, paid $4 and change at the dealer and it came in next day. Sure it would have been less at Mazdacomp but I'd have to pay shipping. I also think the OEM parts come from a different place than the comp parts so they are shipped separately, just my speculation.

 

Well whatever they don't have in stock in Ontario, CA comes from MS. I had one $.50 screw in a big flat rate box sent 2-day Fed-X. How much did that cost me? My last bill was $250 but I was charged almost $300, so if I paid $24 tax then I paid another $24 shipping for two 1lb boxes. D'oh!

I tried to get some JDM stuff for my rear wing which they said was available over the phone but on the invoice it's stared out so i'm guessing no back order & N/A. How can Mazda not get parts from Mazda?

I was extremely suprised to find out not only can we not get JDM Mazdaspeed items but we can not get a discount on any select Mazdaspeed items they allow.

 

Just curious, but have you gone to them with some of your questions? The times I've talked with them they seemed nice and responsive. On the JDM stuff, part of the problem I'd assume is that the program is sponsored by Mazda North American Operations, and not really subsidized by Mother Mazda, basically as a service, they're just getting what they can for you at cost to keep people racing and get their name out there.

I think it's funny how much the prices vary. Some ballpark numbers on some of the items I've checked with them - driver's seat, $1,600, little tiny brake proportioning valve (next to the master cylinder in the engine bay) ~$160, and the biggest surprise - competition transmission mounts $15/ea

They usually ship pretty quickly. The only problem I ever had with them was when I ordered a competition engine mount (for a great price!) a month went by and I had everything else from my order, but no mount. So I called and asked what the status was. They said "What's your order number?" - I'd ordered before and my printer was out of ink - with no problems before I didn't write it down or anything. They apparently couldn't pull it up in their system at all, no way to find it. I bounced around to a few different people who tried to help me and finally got to someone who asked what the item was. When I told him he said "Oh, those are backordered. We have about 30 customers waiting on them right now and we'll ship it out as soon as we get it." That was fine, but no communication, and no way to pull up past orders bothered me a bit.

But there's a new website and ordering system in the works, so maybe some of these problems will go away shortly. My impression is that it's essentially being run out of one of Mazda's big shipping warehouses and they don't have a real ordering infrastructure in place, but are trying to work within the same system that the dealers use, which isn't really helpful. The new system looks pretty nice, and ought to be sweet when the bugs are worked out of it. I don't know how much they want let out of the bag, but one of the coolest things was the interactive drilldown by assembly, individual pictures of the parts, and click to add to shopping cart instead of typing the number in off the PDF. They're also using all the same part numbers, so you can still type in the number if you're like me and already have all the PDFs saved and bookmarked up.

 

Quoting prices will get you kicked out of the sponsorship. I've never heard anything about parts numbers since they're already freely available from any dealership and the internet.

 

^ ok thanks. So lets not post OEM or competetion prices other then cheaper or more expensive.

I just started this so we could share part #'s and advice on stuff since the current way of looking things up takes forever. Examples: 1. When I looked up a replacement lock cylinder there were three different part numbers for the same thing (each ending with a different letter). 2. Some stuff I can find decode numbers but the need to be decoded for the actual part #. 3. Stuff that's normally backorded and/or is cheaper just to get from the local dealer becuase of shipping.

 

It usually notes why there is a different part number. It's probably lighted vs non-lighted, or a different package option for the lock cylinder.

If you fail to come up with the right number and you know mazdatrix carries it... their part numbers are just the first 4 characters of the mazda part number switched to the end of the number.

Why... ? I have no idea.

 

Well for the lock cylinder I called and asked and I was told they only showed one part # but there is three in the PDF. If I didn't get the lighted one that will suck! I haven't installed it yet cause I have to rekey it and that takes some patience. I got the one ending with a "C" but I beleive they list A-D or something like that.

Has anyone tried the chrome Miata parking brake button? I saw it as a cheap mod on the other forum. I didn't want to order one and get the platic version by mistake.

I love my RX-8 5-spd shift ****. I also installed a new shifter hole cover (insulator boot) and it keeps the heat out. The old one had the foam strip worn off and the boot was torn. WHat a difference. Allthough the new one commes with the additional two round boots and their holes are much smaller. I had to reuse the old ones for my RE-A short shifter.

I would like to try to order the newer JDM leather shifter and brake boots to replace the vynal OEM ones. Has anyone ever ordered them?

Has anyone tried a Madza double DIN stereo from another model? I am wondering if anyof them have GPS/NAV and MP3 and all the goodies which will mount and plug right in?

ok, I just checked Mazdatrix site and they list C for the left door and D for the right door. - thanks F1blueRx7

 

Sometimes if it's a letter that changes, it denotes different colors - especially for interior pieces. Let us know (or just me, if noone else cares ) how the lock cylinder works out - I was under the impression you had to replace them all at once or your key wouldn't work.

 

And I'm willing to bet that 'B' was the rear hatch.

 

Well I stil haven't got to the lock yet. I spend all moring putting on squeeze clamps, bolts and other stuff I ordered then I decided to clean the underside of the car since I was there "lol".

The lock isn't that hard, just takes time and patience. You take off the aluminum cover to open it up.Once opened, you lay out the little metal peices in exact order. It's best to have the new one apart first, so you don't forget the sequence of your lock. Transfer the peices from the old lock to the new one (think they are clled tumblers) in exact order and it is rekeyed just like a locksmith.

 

Sweetness! I may have to take them up on that - my passenger side lock apparently has a key broken off in it.

 

ok, worked on the lock today. Like I said it takes ome patience and good eyes.
Remove metal cap
Remove black cover
Remove plastic hole dust cover flap
Remove spring
...
on the other side remove C clip
Remove arm
Remove washer
....
Insert key to remove cylinder
CAUTION!:You will want to use a magnet.
Slowly start to remove cylinder (turn key to release)
stop every MM to find what side the sring is on.
once you find it (by rotating) use your magnet up against the spring
SLOWLY remove the cylinder and catch the teeny weeny ball bearing and spring
...
You can just swap the cylinders if you don't want to rekey, assuming you don't have something broken in it.
...
to remove the tumblers, lay the cylinder on the table and slowly remove the key.
pull tumplers out carefully and lay them sidways all in the same way and order.
...
once the tumblers are removed from the new cylinder, insert tumblers from old in exactly the same order being carfull not to loose each spring for each tumbler. Each tumbler will have a nose that goes over the spring.
....
when all tumblers on both sides are reinserted then insert the key to hold them.
insert the cylinder in the housing.
...
on opposite side of key:
place washer
place arm
inset C clip
...
you can now remove the key:
insert spring
insert white hole cover
press on black cover
snap on metal cap.
...
resinstall new rekeyed lock

Note: If you are afraid of loosing the ball bearing or spring, don't have good eyes or patience then take both old and new lock housings with keys to a local locksmith store. You should be able to find an actuall store in a big city (not a key copy machine in home depot). They can rekey for you for cheap since you removed the lock from the door and it's assembly handle.

 

Website has been updated, yeeeah.

Bad news: If you saved all your part #'s in the basket (like me) for future reference they are gone.