Kill Switch hook up
#2
The kill switch interrupts the power between the battery and everything else. It depends what kill switch you have whether or not it also disrupts the alternator.
To install it, you run the positive cable to the switch, then from the switch to the engine, etc. The two cheapies I got from Racer Wholesale had schematics with them on how to install them. If yours doesn't, I can see if I saved them and either get my scanner fixed or MSPAINT a version of it.
With that said, you want to get it as close to the battery as possible. Both of mine are mounted right in front of the windshield, one on the drivers side of the vent inlet, one right in the middle of that inlet. The coolest one I've seen was mounted inside the round vent inside the car, right next to the cage/door.
To install it, you run the positive cable to the switch, then from the switch to the engine, etc. The two cheapies I got from Racer Wholesale had schematics with them on how to install them. If yours doesn't, I can see if I saved them and either get my scanner fixed or MSPAINT a version of it.
With that said, you want to get it as close to the battery as possible. Both of mine are mounted right in front of the windshield, one on the drivers side of the vent inlet, one right in the middle of that inlet. The coolest one I've seen was mounted inside the round vent inside the car, right next to the cage/door.
#3
We will be transferring a kill switch from a totaled car to a new car, so we dont have any of the original schematics or paperwork. If you could get me a copy of yours that would be greatly appreciated! But dont worry about if your scanner is broken or cant find the papers.
#4
So then why not just take reference pics and use the same wires, etc.? Seems like that would be easier...
I can't find either, but lemme check after I finish reassembling this motor. I'm not sure I'm going to find it though. If you want, I can take pictures from one or both cars. One has the engine out of it at the moment, so it would be pretty easy to take pictures of stuff.
I can't find either, but lemme check after I finish reassembling this motor. I'm not sure I'm going to find it though. If you want, I can take pictures from one or both cars. One has the engine out of it at the moment, so it would be pretty easy to take pictures of stuff.
#6
I have a 4 prong kill switch, 2 large studs, 2 small.
L1 - Battery
L2 - Starter, Alternator, Main Car power
S1 and 2 - Ignition power
Turn the switch, battery is isolated, the alternator would still power the car but ign power is cut so the coils will stop firing.
PaulC
L1 - Battery
L2 - Starter, Alternator, Main Car power
S1 and 2 - Ignition power
Turn the switch, battery is isolated, the alternator would still power the car but ign power is cut so the coils will stop firing.
PaulC
#7
Paul, has the setup I and most other racers use. the original paper work for the "4 prong" switch shows you to bleed the power from the alternater to ground through a large resistor. this works but can fail easily as the resistor takes a beating. just break the power to the coils or MSD box if equipped.
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#8
Actually if you want to keep from burning up your alternator this is another way of doing it. I got my set up from IOPort Racing. I ran this set up on my PRO7.
Here is the schematic.
3 pole switch wiring diagram
You need a resistor to remove the stray voltage output from the alternator.
John
Here is the schematic.
3 pole switch wiring diagram
You need a resistor to remove the stray voltage output from the alternator.
John
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