does anyone have one of these? they seem to have pretty good reviews and are reasonably priced. if you do, pics would be nice.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ategory=107069

 

I think that's who Heidfeld and Kubica will be driving for next year.

 

I wouldn't touch it. Reviews are just about worthless unless you understand who the reviewer is.

Oh, don't forget the saying - "you get what you pay for"

Why do you want a cage anyway? Unless its a dedicated race car, a cage can be dangerous on the street.

 

exactly. how much effort do you think will really be put into a $300 roll cage? not something i would want to count on if the s**t hit the fan and i would actually need it. if you can't afford a custom welded in cage, look into a reputable shop like Kirk's or even Autopower that offers weld in cages or bolt in. if you could get Race Shop's, that would be ideal. if it is going to primarily be street driven, these companies have good streetable roll bars. with a name like broke dick racing, there's no way in hell they'd get a penny from me. you've gotta have some pride in your company. broke dick racing just sounds like a joke.

i never understand why people will spend as much money as possible on power but skimp on the most important aspect of any build: safety.

 

ok, first off i didnt ask for a lecture on my car. and i clearly understand the concept of you get what you pay for, look at my build thread on the RCC. i dont want to hear from anybody else unless you personally have this cage in your car. thats all i asked.

 

He's not skimping on safety, way to assume. You realize you just recommended a bolt in AUTOPOWER over what he wants, which is a custom welded in cage. The kit is just the bars bent and notched tubing, he still has to weld it or have it welded.. I personally would only use moly as ews is the weakest of your options with dom being in the middle. FWIW S&W sells 10 point cage kits for domestics for $250 in ews and their a quality shop. $299 really isn't all that cheap, but I see no reason not to use it.

 

Perfectly stated. +100 forum points to you.

 

calm down; same team. i don't know this guy, and i am not assuming anything. i would just hate to see something happen where he rolls the car and his Ebay roll cage goes broke d**k on him and snaps his neck. all i was saying was there are some great weld in kits that have been tested and proven. didn't mean to push anyone's buttons. if he buys it, everything looks good, then great. a cheaper option.

sorry Dregg100. didn't mean to CB your thread; just meant to help. i saw your thread in RCC and it does look like a pretty impressive build. think that turbo is big enough? damn! should be fun.

 

I would ask for a picture of a cage in an FD. If they can't even show you a picture it's well out of the water... even more than it already is.

 

girlfriend says, "Lets take my car, yours is too fast and dangerous". You reply, "uhh Honey, its perfectly safe, I have a Broke Dick Rollcage"

 

I guess the question is "who is doing the welding", have they done cages before and are they planning on just using this as a base and adding bits as necessary? Assume that everything (esp that main hoop) will need tweaking to fit.

The cage is only as good as the welder.

As for design, I assume this cage is for drag racing and I do not know the NHRA rule set for cage design. I will tell you that as shown this cage will not pass tech for SCCA nor NASA if for no other reason than the of the lack of diagonal bracing and side impact bars.

Stay away from the ERW. As I recall, there is usually some difficulty involved in properly welding Moly so I would avoid that unless your welder has done it before and knows the proper methods. DOM is pretty much accepted by everyone and would seem to be the best choice here.

Are you the welder and have you ever done a cage before?

Good luck,

 

the welder builds drag cars for a living. im talking building a chassis around a fiberglass body type deal. he wont do a cage unless its moly. if i dont hear from anyone soon then he is going to build a custom one for me.

and as stated above, i dont want to hear from anyone else about cheap this and cheap that...
all i want is to hear from someone who has bought one of these and installed it.

 

I'm sure this is indentically the same quality as auto power and their quality isn't what you pay for anyways.

DOM is DOM, Cro Moly is Cro Moly.

The name is throw people off, and you guys are already skeptical and offended by the name.

I'd say run it. But don't listen to me, since I'm not as hardcore as these FD street racers.

and i know lots of people that run cusco/safety 21/godspeed bolt in cages and they are perfectly fine, and legal for drift cars for roll over situations where the car isn't going over like 75 mph. But this is for drift cars - you know not REAL racing

 

Those door bars look quite uncomfortable.

 

OMG, knowing how much work goes into putting a cage together, i wouldn't got near this. probably wouldn't come close to fitting

 

The true answer to the question is: What kind of racing are you going to be doing? If you're doing SCCA/NASA, then skip it. NHRA, maybe that'll be OK but you'll have to check your sanctioning body's rules, and I'm doubting most of us who have answered already know NHRA or other drag racing sanctioning body rules

However, if your welder is someone who does drag cars, and he's building a chassis for you to mount a fiberglas body around, why would you bother buying a cage for a production car body? Why isn't he building a cage into the car already?

I frankly don't give a sh*t what you expect from people who are going to respond, don't like it, ignore it.

 

I was actually looking at this cage the other night. The thickness is in specification to NHRA. I checked. I do believe that chromoly, DOM, EWS quality does not change, depending on whos shop it's made in.

A great cage will come down to the welder. It could be designed by NASA engineering, if it isn't welded correctly, then it's junk in your car.

I guess it comes down to what point cage (4-10 point)you plan to run and who welds it. Most of these cages will be a tad longer and will need cutting, but it's better to be long than short

let me state this, I have never ran this cage, but think I might try it later on. once my build reaches that point. For the price, you can't complain.

With those ready built cages, I think your paying for the welding and coating, more than the material anyway.

Just my 0.02


BTW: Spending less doesn't mean your spending for less quality. It can also mean your spending smarter.
Also, the whole ebay argument gets pretty old. These things aren't made by ebay, and to point out, there are also a lot of reputable companies selling stuff on ebay now. Does that make their product inferior now?

 

I don't see a problem with the cage idea itself. If you are looking at roadracing it isn't really what is considered a 10 pt cage. At most its an 8 but the legs coming off the main hoop toward the tunnel are seen more in drag racing or extreme road racing cages.

SCCA would need DOM so you're looking at the $500 package at the minimum, add shipping of about $125 or so and you're up to $625. After all that you need to get it welded in.

The final fit is where all the time is spent. When I build a cage I'm planning way ahead for how I want it to fit. If I was stuck with what somebody else bent up I would charge a little more just for the frustration factor.

So, I would contact you're local SCCA or NASA region, find a cage builder and get a better fitting cage for the same money in the end. Its just some bent tubes right now, its not a cage until its welded in.