this will be the first time using this size on an fd for me, of course I'll keep you guys posted as soon as I reach that chapter in the project.

BigAl...

 

I think damian is running big fat tires around that size on his race FD. fyi...

 

I saw that, I believe he's using 335's.

 

Car is looking good!

 

I have the same Petitt flares and I use 335 /30 /18

 

thanks good luck with your new project!

BigAl...

 

Do you think you could have fit a 345? perhaps with a different offset?

BigAl...

 

Looking very good

 

Would you mind sharing your wheel specs?

 

it seems like there are more n/a 20bs then turbo..wuts with that

 

have you seen that graphic "boost in apex seals out"

BigAl...

 

Honestly, I think there are a few reasons for this and I'll just state why I think they are less common.

1: price! Fabrication of the manifold, turbo, exhaust, intercooler piping. Cheaper to make a header with equal length runners and call it a day.
2:Have you seen how big the manifolds can get? Some serious real estate has to be invested into the location of a turbo of the size necessary to feed the hungry bastard that is a 3 rotor.
3: This one's purely speculation... The 3 port runner configuration makes it impossible to have an efficient divided manifold/turbo setup. Which means that you have to go with an open/undivided valute which have been said to flow less overall through the turbine and cause slower spool than could be had with a well designed divided setup. (I'm no expert, just theorizing here) When you are trying to spool a turbo as big as is necessary to create any sort of decent power (on a 20b I would assume this would be >600whp) you need the most efficient turbine setup to utilize it. So I guess reason number 3 would be difficulty.

Just thinking out loud since I like this thread in particular and wish I had the money to dedicate to a track only beast of this caliber :P

 

yup, typicallly i use around 335 in rears and 285 fronts, dependsing on what I can get my hands on from my used race tire guy :-)

 

Nice looking build. Look foward to seeing what you are going to do with the underbody and diffusers.

 

It's gonna be a while before I get to those parts but I do have some pretty cool ideas (that I've learned over the years from other racecars) for them. Currently Rob and I are working on mounting the wing (dropped off cardboard template at the waterjet shop today).

BigAl...

 

CCW 10,5 x 18 front and 13 x 18 rear

 

what are your underbody panels going to be made of?

 

offsets?

Thanks

 

for simplicity and (mostly) budget, thin Aluminum.

BigAl...

 

So much weight and so flexible. Go composite instead

hehe

nah aluminum will work fine. I had my front undertray made in composite and it's so stiff and so light. I think it weighs something like 3lbs or something. It's super light.

JT

 

no doubt that's the way to go! but, as I'm sure you know, this racing stuff gets really expensive really fast. I've been lucky, I have a friend in the racing business and I go dumpster diving at his place all the time, one man's trash is another man's treasure, kinda thing!

BigAl...

 

What spring rates are you starting with?

 

I have no clue, but the folks I'll be buying them from seem to be in tune with the FD and penkse's so I'll buy what they suggest and start there.

BigAl...

 

I know its been a while but Rob and I took some time off to get his car ready for last weekend's race (I'll let Rob update his thread) but as usual we are both fired up about working on my car after last weekend.

Below are some pics of the wing after installation, I inherited the wing from my friend Alan (he was actually going to throw it away after a fire on his D sport racer did a real number on it), after some crafty work with a piece of carbon fiber and some resin, my friend Rey had it cleared for me and it was looking great! I knew I wanted to skin the hatch (for weight loss) but I knew that would really make the hatch flimsy, so I decided to support it from below. The bracket attaches to the fuel cell frame and the bolt holes of the stock latch. The bracket protrudes through the hatch then it attaches to the wing brackets with some pins. It's amazingly sturdy and easily removed by simply removing the pins. All the brackets and end plates will powder coated crinkle black.



here is the bracket





another view of the bracket





outside view





other side





a view of the endplates





we'll be working on the floor next, I'll post pics next week.

BigAl...

 

Wow the car is really looking good. I can wait to see it finished.